tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71213350211644906742024-03-05T04:25:04.042-08:00The Book TravelerAdventures in Leisure From Cathy's Half Price BooksBook Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-15756373779154760952010-05-11T14:36:00.000-07:002010-05-12T09:42:00.062-07:00California Dreamin'<span style="font-weight: bold;">California Here We Come</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWjNOZGjTft03OwuSg9YRuyA1NMVXDl5QvmscIuoFM7FSapkNA98y29uvji8_fpU5DtsPQPrDvPTgg5oI_ipng0XWZiL3sbGmNB7wmE0FGKC7EfL0dVRngNHtg_Z-8lQKxctTfacOclxQ/s1600/Disney+Land+View.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 177px; height: 125px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNWjNOZGjTft03OwuSg9YRuyA1NMVXDl5QvmscIuoFM7FSapkNA98y29uvji8_fpU5DtsPQPrDvPTgg5oI_ipng0XWZiL3sbGmNB7wmE0FGKC7EfL0dVRngNHtg_Z-8lQKxctTfacOclxQ/s320/Disney+Land+View.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5470422184005663618" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz1hAeLrXETTS7RmMkBy_qZnYe5AX3s8rrHiiB4dTPU7WlhGHpxyEfSr4RA0Sk27VxsjB-j0TJ5XRoQomz2R-8HjNqsTCgRPEVwRbaWYLHo3bvRjmvkXQtJHL69UIiwXjdIofVQ32V64sN/s1600/Hearst+Castle+front.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 94px; height: 125px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz1hAeLrXETTS7RmMkBy_qZnYe5AX3s8rrHiiB4dTPU7WlhGHpxyEfSr4RA0Sk27VxsjB-j0TJ5XRoQomz2R-8HjNqsTCgRPEVwRbaWYLHo3bvRjmvkXQtJHL69UIiwXjdIofVQ32V64sN/s320/Hearst+Castle+front.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5470422187987196498" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtazDzBw4xXEiMR762HU6C17vpY8DN7qhsoaAK4n-bIXRTF1C1kHqxe-ZHifffiqfLkKov4cDq74LKRzTl3VpOeqH1a3hR26SX6mOM5bdvuu3R2RTKkZ4DGL0gryNNsRe8cxBsbSNZxWtP/s1600/Sand+Dollar+Beach+Big+Sur.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 218px; height: 125px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtazDzBw4xXEiMR762HU6C17vpY8DN7qhsoaAK4n-bIXRTF1C1kHqxe-ZHifffiqfLkKov4cDq74LKRzTl3VpOeqH1a3hR26SX6mOM5bdvuu3R2RTKkZ4DGL0gryNNsRe8cxBsbSNZxWtP/s320/Sand+Dollar+Beach+Big+Sur.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5470422195685900994" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilbng69wmyKkxYyT_A32uC6m5_LJR0aweTnlF-TF9RR80PF1Taczg1uiY6Drfckn1TW7kfc12PomxaCBOXVFgWudRXGf7s0CGJaEKcDFb9hudwqhLegcmwprtGCFUtWJawmzUhtsxa1R2P/s1600/Carmel+Mission.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 93px; height: 124px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilbng69wmyKkxYyT_A32uC6m5_LJR0aweTnlF-TF9RR80PF1Taczg1uiY6Drfckn1TW7kfc12PomxaCBOXVFgWudRXGf7s0CGJaEKcDFb9hudwqhLegcmwprtGCFUtWJawmzUhtsxa1R2P/s320/Carmel+Mission.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5470422177862393426" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above, from left to right:</span> Disneyland, Hearst Castle, Big Sur, Carmel Mission</span><br /><br />"So!", you may be asking yourself: "What on God's green Earth is the Booktraveler going to write about now, now that the tales from last summer's Western Sojourn have (finally) wrapped up?"<br /><br />Well, not to worry my fellow travelers. For since that unparalleled summer odyssey, your humble Booktraveler has once again been wandering the planet, bringing more stories from the road with which to edify and regale. So sit back, fasten your seat belt and, if you're sitting in first class, please enjoy the beverage of your choice before we get under way.<br /><br />Our next tale from the road begins, once again, out west. This time in California, where I found myself touching down just a few short weeks after my vaunted Western Sojourn.<br /><br />Ah, California. Land of Hollywood, hipsters and hype. While the prevailing image conveyed by the media may leave something to be desired, that's largely because most of what Hollywood and the media focus on is confined to the suburban megalopolis of Greater Los Angeles, or LaLa Land, as I prefer to call it, which in my opinion, is the least tempting slice of this most delicious pie.<br /><br />OK, OK, I'm not busting on LA. There's plenty of great stuff to see and do there, which we'll get to shortly. But California is a huge state (second only in size to Alaska and Texas) with a lifetime's worth of things to see and do. LaLa Land is just one small part.<br /><br />In fact, California the most populous state in the US with a cozy 37 million inhabitants sprinkled around its 163,000 (and change) square miles, nearly 2/3 of whom (upwards of 22 million) live in or around the two largest metropolitan areas of Greater Los Angeles and the San Francisco Bay Area 400 miles to the north. It's also a state of incomparable beauty and unsurpassed diversity. I mean, just the fact that you can see the highest point in the Continental US (Mt. Whitney @ 14,494 ft.) from the lowest (Death Valley @ -282 ft.) tells you something.<br /><br />How do I come to know so much about California my fellow travelers? Well, it just so happens I used to live there for oh, a little over a decade or so, during my formative adult years. That's right, I'm one of those anomalies of life, the former West Coaster who prefers the hard boiled realities of life in Philly. But that's a different story altogether.<br /><br />For our current soiree we'll be starting off in the afore-mentioned LaLa Land, then make our way up the coast to Hearst Castle, the soaring cliffs of Big Sur and the halcyon streets of Carmel before heading north to San Francisco and the Wine Country. This being a somewhat compressed trip, there wasn't a whole lot of time to visit local book establishments. But don't fret none booklovers, there'll still be an interesting literary tidbit or two along the way.<br /><br />So check back soon and we'll kick off our trip with a visit to that most famous of all California destinations, Disneyland. Yippi-i-0-ki-yay! Until then...keep reading!Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-2026544455516282992010-04-08T09:15:00.000-07:002010-04-29T10:09:47.873-07:00Wild West Wrap Up<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBI2F41qf9gF3I3iTpYY4cfkwuuqbug4rJokqBFQm0Td1eCi_s_gbPzvpXvanwWmO0Nk45r6eIVNESYfdEW6KnDdUifWNDZ95XaZ6_xs8kFHxsQ2_ELy4HlgkN23gC6ZvZ2cMa6d82_IeN/s1600/Arches+Book+Company+Front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 123px; height: 90px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBI2F41qf9gF3I3iTpYY4cfkwuuqbug4rJokqBFQm0Td1eCi_s_gbPzvpXvanwWmO0Nk45r6eIVNESYfdEW6KnDdUifWNDZ95XaZ6_xs8kFHxsQ2_ELy4HlgkN23gC6ZvZ2cMa6d82_IeN/s320/Arches+Book+Company+Front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585364968193730" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ANLn4WXAph_KAdGPgdjFee8cAVAAKVfvnqSpv0_BzQ3t3fNyKzLq07Y1dD1QFCLgB44oHE3uCgL8Rf20uk08tjcPzEviQus7e9q-hIRpl-TxYAkzjYewP7cIz9CD-IzcTFYZR1hsBVOH/s1600/Mormon+Tabernacle+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 67px; height: 88px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ANLn4WXAph_KAdGPgdjFee8cAVAAKVfvnqSpv0_BzQ3t3fNyKzLq07Y1dD1QFCLgB44oHE3uCgL8Rf20uk08tjcPzEviQus7e9q-hIRpl-TxYAkzjYewP7cIz9CD-IzcTFYZR1hsBVOH/s320/Mormon+Tabernacle+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585370403229922" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitiL1eYz1kB8mH7zE2VS2y2C4r1Muy0dhTu2ufJXXZw9f9ptLeAtqw6fTkZsKZM_UP7OeX02Oym8QH-v6LAnL6cu4_0NTm2wdIbfKsQmO6BT5ZJc2xwrMfpPaoW8yDQTSwRbLbpzAGGmQy/s1600/Grand+Teton+Mt+Owen+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 118px; height: 88px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitiL1eYz1kB8mH7zE2VS2y2C4r1Muy0dhTu2ufJXXZw9f9ptLeAtqw6fTkZsKZM_UP7OeX02Oym8QH-v6LAnL6cu4_0NTm2wdIbfKsQmO6BT5ZJc2xwrMfpPaoW8yDQTSwRbLbpzAGGmQy/s320/Grand+Teton+Mt+Owen+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585373324341922" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAmfW5IFRgxUDPGZRCNcAlKE67ehZPMchFqawEpDWvCkbwgroPm6qy-7vp8d4-QrXd0E9oJV3ECzRksAq_FP-Kx26eCESz7I-fr3_5byusirKnZEmBRy6A2ReQaLJ7ZHYPNuEeR7EyibY/s1600/The+Flatirons.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 116px; height: 87px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAmfW5IFRgxUDPGZRCNcAlKE67ehZPMchFqawEpDWvCkbwgroPm6qy-7vp8d4-QrXd0E9oJV3ECzRksAq_FP-Kx26eCESz7I-fr3_5byusirKnZEmBRy6A2ReQaLJ7ZHYPNuEeR7EyibY/s320/The+Flatirons.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465586176525375378" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzFSUXrh9yOHy8tJodGFWtDgPgwGEEohzRpZL2LVNoAdGDkrK0lPoL6Otp8oSs_ipEicjdwByHabtTkwf4ZwFQrdYRHImWNEr46EvKr7NcKN5dpMSsOTEkm8z2uzgwBRjybw2AfMRc3eZ/s1600/YS+Buffalo+Roam+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 165px; height: 88px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzFSUXrh9yOHy8tJodGFWtDgPgwGEEohzRpZL2LVNoAdGDkrK0lPoL6Otp8oSs_ipEicjdwByHabtTkwf4ZwFQrdYRHImWNEr46EvKr7NcKN5dpMSsOTEkm8z2uzgwBRjybw2AfMRc3eZ/s320/YS+Buffalo+Roam+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585383730897986" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Preamble</span><br /><br />Hello and welcome back my fellow travelers. I know you have long since come to believe that your humble Book Traveler dropped off the face of the Earth never to be heard from again. But here I am, back in the saddle again, and ready to wrap up the final installment of this long delayed </span></span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Western Sojourn Extravaganza. </span></span><br /><br />Now, you may ask, what on God's green Earth have I been doing all this time that has kept me from regaling you with stories from the Blogosphere? Well, I could stretch the truth and say that the ring finger of my left hand was badly mauled in a vicious squirrel attack, which left me unable to type the letters w, s and x...but I'm sure you ould find thi to be quite the hitty e cuse.<br /><br />Nope, the only defense I can offer is that I just haven't been able to get around to it, which is really no excuse at all. Be that as it may, rest assured that this behavior is all now completely in the past (well, most of it anyway). As you've been able to bear with me, we now return for the final, heart pounding installment of this long delayed chapter of my incredible Western Sojourn, leaving the past behind to forge our way fearlessly onward... into the past.<br /><br />Luckily, as carefully outlined in my previous post: </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >with a prodigious memory, copious notes, ample photography and a rapacious (or at least rapier) wit, I am now fully geared up to complete the task and share with you the exciting final chapter of the journey on which I embarked lo those many, many months ago. And don't worry, I'll soon be following up with more tales from the road.<br /><br />Let me please reiterate </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >that the fact you are still here to read and enjoy these entries is a testament not only to you as an individual, but to the outstanding qualities of your superior character and intellect. For this, I applaud and thank you!</span> - BT<br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /></span><span style=";font-family:georgia;font-size:100%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Wild West Wrap Up<br /></span></span><br />I definitely feel it. 3 weeks worth of wear and tear is catching up. When I finally woke on this, the final full day of my Western Sojourn Extravaganza, I was unable to extract myself from beneath the feather comforter until well after 8am, more than two hours behind schedule. Even at that, another hour or two of sleep would have been nice, as I still felt a little like a well chewed piece of beef jerky after two days of exertion and imbibing in Bend.<br /><br />Be that as it may, there's no rest for the weary and once up, we gathered ourselves quickly, hopped in the Jeep and made our way into the brisk, crystal clear morning. It was an extreme misfortune that due to the lateness of the hour I was unable to enjoy a final breakfast at <a href="http://miloscitycafe.com/default.aspx">Milo's</a>. Instead, it was a trip through the famed Golden Arches drive-thru for a delicate repast of Sausage McMuffin and McHash Browns, washed down by a tall cup of scalding McCoffee (with a secret ingredient reminiscent of well-aged dirt).<br /><br />Having spent the bulk of the trip roaming the hills, mountains and valleys of the American interior, I was looking forward spending this final day of the Sojourn taking in the stunning beauty of the Pacific. We were on our way to <a href="http://www.astoriaoregon.com/">Astoria, Oregon</a>, <span style="font-size:100%;">the quaint </span><span style="font-size:100%;">Pacific port town famous as the setting for "The Goonies", "Kindergarten Cop" and "Free Willy". Oh yes, and as the turnaround and over-wintering point for the Lewis & Clark expedition, a distinction one finds mentioned rather copiously at various regional venues.<br /><br />It was a stunning morning as we set out from Portland. To the east, Mt. Hood stood motionless against an azure sky, while to the north, the flattened, smoldering remains of Mt. St. Helens loomed a distant menacing shadow.</span><span style="font-size:100%;"> We opted to take scenic route 30 to the coast, starting north along the banks of the </span><span style="font-size:100%;">Willamette River then turning west to parallel the mighty Columbia as it carves its way through the coastal hills to the pacific.<br /><br />While not as stunning as the famed Columbia River Gorge to the east, the pastoral hills, valleys and towns along this stretch of the river have a unique beauty all their own.</span> At several stages along the drive, the road rises high above the valley floor providing incredible views across the river to Washington State. As you draw nearer the coast, the vegetation grows ever denser, becoming a thick conifer rain forest matted everywhere in thick layers of hoary moss. I gather it must it must rain here on occasion (understatement).<br /><br />Roughly half way to the coast, traffic came to a sudden and inexplicable halt. Looking ahead, the line of stopped cars, buses, trucks and RVs stretched into the distance and people could already been seen getting out of their cars and loitering about the highway. Not a good sign.<br /><br />Having waited long enough to turn the motor off and get out of the Jeep, we were pondering our next move when a vehicle coming the other way informed us and our neighbors of a terrible accident about a mile or so up ahead. State troupers were estimating cleanup would keep the road closed 4 hours or more. When we heard, a few minutes later, that a medevac helicopter was on the way, that was our queue to seek an alternate route.<br /><br />Luckily we turned around and, following a series of small roads through the forested hills, were able to feel our way back down to the highway on the other side of the accident in about 20 minutes. We were doubly lucky in that the entire region became an impassible parking lot later that afternoon. We heard later reports that 4 teenagers were killed when their SUV lost control passing another vehicle and veered directly into a van coming the other way. The driver of the van was also killed and a passenger was in critical condition. Horrible. I thought of my friends in Denver who lost their son in a similar accident four years earlier. A sad and tragic day.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPc__ligo3g1HR4eDvc-dK-se9Gdl0lAoc7v2qWfNE2UUmums9alGco-oQQOtlXvOabpz9wUY7DAGM4TUh-npLZeQ3EvzP6USCNCRtJFAqWQIUPugHOtFrNE24lv7fZucp_s6ki351LsY6/s1600/Downtown+Astoria+Commercial+Street.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 500px; height: 202px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPc__ligo3g1HR4eDvc-dK-se9Gdl0lAoc7v2qWfNE2UUmums9alGco-oQQOtlXvOabpz9wUY7DAGM4TUh-npLZeQ3EvzP6USCNCRtJFAqWQIUPugHOtFrNE24lv7fZucp_s6ki351LsY6/s320/Downtown+Astoria+Commercial+Street.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465236809530187794" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above:</span> Looking East Along Commercial St., Downtown Astoria.</span></span><br /><br />Upon reaching Astoria after this disheartening detour, my fellow travelers and I rekindled our spirits and epicurean enthusiasm with a light lunch replete with a local brews at Astoria's famed <a href="http://www.fortgeorgebrewery.com/">Fort George Brewery + Public House</a>. Located in a hip refurbished factory along Duane St. in the commercial heart of town, Ft. George offers a superb selection of great daily lunch and dinner specials from their chalk board menu, backed by a singularly diverse selection of their own unique and satisfying home brewed beers. NICE!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanvDrGG-JOe1-PFv_Org3eNgA-JmHpMWRJ8YA9dqiiqx_nbPgPeHA1MN2VLq8o2WybQVYEW1BPLuNFcmsHyeSyGR8Ew8k84vN2viQF03mo1HsY7UXXZzDRjmEFodDhjx7npuQOPtIBvB_/s1600/Fort+George+Brewery+%2B+Public+House.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 277px; height: 233px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjanvDrGG-JOe1-PFv_Org3eNgA-JmHpMWRJ8YA9dqiiqx_nbPgPeHA1MN2VLq8o2WybQVYEW1BPLuNFcmsHyeSyGR8Ew8k84vN2viQF03mo1HsY7UXXZzDRjmEFodDhjx7npuQOPtIBvB_/s320/Fort+George+Brewery+%2B+Public+House.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465236829986345618" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">:</span> Fort George Brewery + Public House</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">a great place for lunch, dinner + brews!</span></span><br /><br />After lunch, we drifted out to wander around the center of town. Astoria sits on a small hilly peninsula jutting into the river roughly 5 miles east of where it empties in to the cold Pacific. The downtown strip, situated along the northern edge of the peninsula, is a scenic, hippie gentrified port town that still retains vestigial reminders of it's rustic heritage. Steep, tree covered hills garnished with rows of quaint Victorian homes rise above downtown, providing a scenic backdrop to the rustic street scene.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsU8NsY_SL6DvaOWDgm_qo1fOhiHZPV7k7WbUT_YdFlZPEJJGzUTHic73zuLvBSAwWRVykkUqUhHMDj5H_T-ytKjWxa9KDeg8_OhnlqxNPCZ4h8wmShkB9NTK-zFPOBFZVVd15dneLRgps/s1600/Godfather's+Exterior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 199px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsU8NsY_SL6DvaOWDgm_qo1fOhiHZPV7k7WbUT_YdFlZPEJJGzUTHic73zuLvBSAwWRVykkUqUhHMDj5H_T-ytKjWxa9KDeg8_OhnlqxNPCZ4h8wmShkB9NTK-zFPOBFZVVd15dneLRgps/s320/Godfather's+Exterior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465236835055429698" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgh2gQR5BnDSn-JcI77SRqUL135VKHQWGhFxg3FSjWPT_GeTsvEz8fwAZUxLvtALfCqXQvO8RmqtLabnNOzjpUcSjNtQULZsQKUboGODD0POo0VdM-FaiN7RxngigRPXUzvyQz0rWRkTaC/s1600/Godfather's+Espresso+Bar.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgh2gQR5BnDSn-JcI77SRqUL135VKHQWGhFxg3FSjWPT_GeTsvEz8fwAZUxLvtALfCqXQvO8RmqtLabnNOzjpUcSjNtQULZsQKUboGODD0POo0VdM-FaiN7RxngigRPXUzvyQz0rWRkTaC/s320/Godfather's+Espresso+Bar.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465236842992085026" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:78%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">:</span> Godfather's Books & Espresso</span><span style="font-size:78%;"> </span><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">:</span> Godfather's Espress</span></span><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">o Bar</span></span><br /><br />Much to my surprise, these quaint and inviting streets offers a fun selection of interesting shops and venues including a couple of independent new and used bookstores perfect for a afternoon's perusal. Our first stop was <a href="http://www.godfathersbookstore.com/">Godfather's Books and Espresso</a> at the corner of 11th and Commercial Streets.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdkyG2C4BH86gS7zDOBsK8lONSErdgfPI8kJVnLUMNBWBXMxm-CHQcX2vouwHYEeQ-wGIm6bZ5Solboq2V1sbVf0_IQ1mGHixMWV_2uSmtpupYCqgkrJ8zNU7KtfWpECZuBAlU530TpY4/s1600/Ceiling+Tile+Godfather%27s.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 273px; height: 204px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCdkyG2C4BH86gS7zDOBsK8lONSErdgfPI8kJVnLUMNBWBXMxm-CHQcX2vouwHYEeQ-wGIm6bZ5Solboq2V1sbVf0_IQ1mGHixMWV_2uSmtpupYCqgkrJ8zNU7KtfWpECZuBAlU530TpY4/s320/Ceiling+Tile+Godfather%27s.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465239467465806674" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVpUeer13GRLgltDUkj2qXiuIhMBHQBHRTM8o9DVjDuKWJ2yli1ZeiP5a6jdr0jnwLgwGwDPcSUcFIm2IhAbrVlAOO92bcpP6Motxp7zrtNo_QwJndzJXcF-pt-zL0Bqc-oK9I6FlvO-U/s1600/Ceiling+Tile+2+Godfather%27s.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 257px; height: 203px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVpUeer13GRLgltDUkj2qXiuIhMBHQBHRTM8o9DVjDuKWJ2yli1ZeiP5a6jdr0jnwLgwGwDPcSUcFIm2IhAbrVlAOO92bcpP6Motxp7zrtNo_QwJndzJXcF-pt-zL0Bqc-oK9I6FlvO-U/s320/Ceiling+Tile+2+Godfather%27s.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465239458979482770" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:78%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">: </span>The painted ceiling tiles above Godfather's Espresso bar are worth the visit .</span><br /><br />Godfather's has been a staple of the Astoria book scene for over 15 years. Besides offering a robust, if not totally unique, selection of new and used books, this diamond-in-the-rough makes for a singularly interesting visit simply for the character, and cast of characters, found at their colorful Espresso Bar. Grab a book, order your favorite hot beverage, and settle in for some interesting conversation with the local proletariat. The painted ceiling tiles above the bar are worth the visit alone.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOZNCPaTBD4Hln_SKuPcdlS9u-U1CZ_bNdF_lMpYy8sJuZqyAGrg6SKz17vk9CbqqybEYVisfrq6LIMmA5QP_QUL-9UXMntzFiqXFQGLlgfOuhenDa-aQEJRbXTdrb6A9WZxtT0ae5cO0c/s1600/Astoria+Liberty+Theater.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 169px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOZNCPaTBD4Hln_SKuPcdlS9u-U1CZ_bNdF_lMpYy8sJuZqyAGrg6SKz17vk9CbqqybEYVisfrq6LIMmA5QP_QUL-9UXMntzFiqXFQGLlgfOuhenDa-aQEJRbXTdrb6A9WZxtT0ae5cO0c/s320/Astoria+Liberty+Theater.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465239458690001234" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMIRn7s9JSStva9NkVp0AcBEp_dGIkTmNCDAJbR5Vv7gMhXE4iYyaRCocywu5baKEzVFYuwTYYwHXXiVAPNblL-n8-lo7TQHJlwc9V_ANAJ7gj1EsiK96-KidD_A1NY2SlvjoBaBFhZp-/s1600/Hills+of+Astoria.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 227px; height: 170px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoMIRn7s9JSStva9NkVp0AcBEp_dGIkTmNCDAJbR5Vv7gMhXE4iYyaRCocywu5baKEzVFYuwTYYwHXXiVAPNblL-n8-lo7TQHJlwc9V_ANAJ7gj1EsiK96-KidD_A1NY2SlvjoBaBFhZp-/s320/Hills+of+Astoria.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465239479799918706" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above left: </span>The beautifully restored Liberty Theater, cultural hub of Astoria.</span> <span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above right: </span>The hills above downtown.</span></span><br /><br />Just a block east along Commercial St. and half block up from the beautifully restored <a href="http://www.liberty-theater.org/">Liberty Theater</a> is <a href="http://www.lucysbooks.net/">Lucy's Books</a> at 348 12th St. This adorable new and used indie has been serving the needs of Astorians for over 11 years. Owner Laura Snyder has a great little selection of titles tailored to her local customers, in a cozy, well lit store that offers a great second story reading loft for the kids.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5u0kL9-7NtltxqSWjOmP8JxUnj0MmX7P8fblCj92F3pTgNnjwpnq6QGVbyf-Ui_oETu8yHwuaAgTWW4oYxthx_yw8m_pk9gmUWRf0KlluYEM3LFxMhjS1bTZT73ddSSF2YyPrZnKeCqWc/s1600/Lucy's+Books+Store+front.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 216px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5u0kL9-7NtltxqSWjOmP8JxUnj0MmX7P8fblCj92F3pTgNnjwpnq6QGVbyf-Ui_oETu8yHwuaAgTWW4oYxthx_yw8m_pk9gmUWRf0KlluYEM3LFxMhjS1bTZT73ddSSF2YyPrZnKeCqWc/s320/Lucy's+Books+Store+front.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465240836786480514" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN49cyLd5ROppZitJu26iBgGObzVMhv-BZhHw36b3Bex0j38t5UYewYlCS8feRhsgdOkAGnt8rUHDZAMV7pTikpascqDppE6TjXeoduQgBDz0iRVpOTeN0SjXzUiujXjNDfMaTOcL5WDX/s1600/Lucy's+Books+Interior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWN49cyLd5ROppZitJu26iBgGObzVMhv-BZhHw36b3Bex0j38t5UYewYlCS8feRhsgdOkAGnt8rUHDZAMV7pTikpascqDppE6TjXeoduQgBDz0iRVpOTeN0SjXzUiujXjNDfMaTOcL5WDX/s320/Lucy's+Books+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465240832331338354" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above left: </span>Lucy's Books storefront, just a half block up from the Liberty Theater.</span> <span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above right: </span>Lucy's Books interior with the Kid's Book Loft above.</span></span><br /><br />Lucy's plays host to a full calendar of local and national authors and as stated on their website: "We are lifelong readers and advocates of old-fashioned, small town interactions, in other words, conversation! Hence, a real, live bookshop downtown". A great little place to exercise your love of books with fellow kindred spirits.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBl5iB3_ffaYUqfuxvbO6Le1SZrMXmFjsAWSuSJo9MF9UUuw8BE-EOkol4a1U-gyzjF26xMi3Ghyphenhyphen_JWiyvVJ9IBtRcFmLhvDs1jP5KhFR04_kMh3F3k9AwhYcl1631ijylfDiN5hNfRS0f/s1600/Above+Astoria.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 493px; height: 182px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBl5iB3_ffaYUqfuxvbO6Le1SZrMXmFjsAWSuSJo9MF9UUuw8BE-EOkol4a1U-gyzjF26xMi3Ghyphenhyphen_JWiyvVJ9IBtRcFmLhvDs1jP5KhFR04_kMh3F3k9AwhYcl1631ijylfDiN5hNfRS0f/s320/Above+Astoria.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465236822889835314" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">:</span> View over downtown and the Astoria-Megler Bridge from Column Park. Cape Disappointment can be seen the distance and beyond that, the Pacific Ocean. The shores of Washington State lie directly across the Columbia River, here over 4 miles across.</span></span><br /><br />It was already late afternoon by the time we hopped back in the Jeep and headed up the narrow, Victorian lined streets above downtown to Column Park. Here atop of the highest hill in Astoria is the famed, 125 foot high <a href="http://www.astoria-usa.com/astoria_column.shtml">Astoria Column</a>. Built in 1926, the column offers a sweeping panoramic view of the entire region for those willing (and able) to ascend the 164 steps to the top.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrIdVtmhRZyQuTNgvTAtvXzCBmK_Z__B0ozvZL-tJbPGvcCvKZjy387qpYCnknxnumYHFjDmjplWfa2KNxqdscmvfwwD0aWtZdE3CIheL0Re18ICROQBueUd7rCX6J_e3zWTRPlUXjAWS/s1600/Astoria+Column.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 99px; height: 249px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBrIdVtmhRZyQuTNgvTAtvXzCBmK_Z__B0ozvZL-tJbPGvcCvKZjy387qpYCnknxnumYHFjDmjplWfa2KNxqdscmvfwwD0aWtZdE3CIheL0Re18ICROQBueUd7rCX6J_e3zWTRPlUXjAWS/s320/Astoria+Column.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465239460314066610" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ldOy2p5gCTceAzip3kc-x_DYwa8kSz25gZvVx-Wf0th2uCvzDaqDk-w1jx8S7GbiKM9Qw0e6uN1RfT6HF9iCBAwCfgeC8Ryxq4onAM7-ms4IT305JkDA-dd7UNdasrD-OStjKRBOSH-x/s1600/Columbia+River+from+Column.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-ldOy2p5gCTceAzip3kc-x_DYwa8kSz25gZvVx-Wf0th2uCvzDaqDk-w1jx8S7GbiKM9Qw0e6uN1RfT6HF9iCBAwCfgeC8Ryxq4onAM7-ms4IT305JkDA-dd7UNdasrD-OStjKRBOSH-x/s320/Columbia+River+from+Column.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465240838566490082" border="0" /></a><br /></span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:78%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">: </span>The Astoria Column (left) and the view east up the Columbia River (right).</span><br /><br />Pulling ourselves away from the splendid views of Column Park we hopped back in the Jeep and headed west over the Young's Bay Bridge and south along the Oregon Coast Highway to the seaside resort town of...Seaside. This somewhat typical coastal resort town is much like any you find across the US, with the somewhat notable exception of frequent inclement weather and an inhospitably cold ocean.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN8u7z8nwzMibqz2vi_5mXlli8QluDJUZhVNT_8x6Wg-y8NkNMK0xrAY17cwhAeNQUfQ6W1mS2ea9Fof0KdNfAtmz37jkY3xJVS5-szgiaUdGDGrFD_We1TeKQzjguR-4Ow4fMkdKq6RKN/s1600/Youngs+River+and+Saddle+Mountain.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 444px; height: 183px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN8u7z8nwzMibqz2vi_5mXlli8QluDJUZhVNT_8x6Wg-y8NkNMK0xrAY17cwhAeNQUfQ6W1mS2ea9Fof0KdNfAtmz37jkY3xJVS5-szgiaUdGDGrFD_We1TeKQzjguR-4Ow4fMkdKq6RKN/s320/Youngs+River+and+Saddle+Mountain.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465240819118795010" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">:</span> The view south from Astoria Column. Youngs River is in the foreground with aptly named Saddle Mountain rising on the left</span>.</span><br /><br />Proof yet again that people will frolic near the ocean regardless of the conditions. Northern Oregon is certainly no exception. In fact, Seaside is one of two coastal resort towns in the area. The other is the famed Cannon Beach just a few miles to the south. Both resorts are intersected by the Sunset Highway, providing easy access from Portland, roughly 2 hours to the east.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh93eTNXHSbVmWsIpnhLIy2o9dpXd9_Qxv57HdaPEz0WnPotNQsgVGKb95UDRbNW7wWlj6bsCxfjhLBLnBbumvF68MGfH4TV5Qynfs0pFJ8REVKZuYBmZ2AgQiryY22pMo60IaqIrPxvXeX/s1600/Saddle+Mountain+from+Youngs+River.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 467px; height: 173px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh93eTNXHSbVmWsIpnhLIy2o9dpXd9_Qxv57HdaPEz0WnPotNQsgVGKb95UDRbNW7wWlj6bsCxfjhLBLnBbumvF68MGfH4TV5Qynfs0pFJ8REVKZuYBmZ2AgQiryY22pMo60IaqIrPxvXeX/s320/Saddle+Mountain+from+Youngs+River.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465240826289428722" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Above</span><span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">: </span>View of Saddle Mountain on the way to Seaside via the Youngs River Bridge.</span></span><br /><br />Even today, the sun became obscured behind a chilling, thick ceiling of brooding gray as we approached the coast, and this was in the warmest part of the summer. But if you don't mind the relentless pounding of north pacific winter storms accompanied by bark-stripping winds and drenching rains 7-8 months of the year, with ocean water temps in the low to mid 40's, then this is the place for you! We watched the local surfer populace glide along the wind-textured waves for a while before saddling up for our return to Portland.<br /><br />We headed back through the thick rain-forested mountains via the Sunset highway. Once away from the coast, the low gray clouds gave way to a stunning and cloudless afternoon, the orange sun casting a late day glow over the pastoral farm lands of the interior valleys. A fitting and beautiful end to my final day on the road.<br /><br />On the way back to Portland, we stopped off for dinner at <a href="http://www.mcmenamins.com/426-grand-lodge-home">McMenamins famous Grand Lodge</a> in Forest Grove, 20 minutes west of Portland. After a robust meal it was back to the home of my gracious hosts in Portland, where we enjoyed a few final glasses of wine together before returning to my room to pack for the early morning flight, just hours away.<br /><br />After 3 weeks on the road, the flight back to Philadelphia offered a welcome opportunity for sleep. The drive to the airport the next morning proved uneventful, the security line was short and we set off right on time. The flight was smooth and in fact, were it not for one final episode, our story would have reached it's conclusion.<br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">Coda</span><br /><br />However, particularly for those of you less than enamored or even fearful of flying: a brief, final coda I hope you'll enjoy:<br /><br />As I said, the the flight proved smooth and uneventful. We were on time into Atlanta, where I was to have a layover and plane change. The second flight to Philadelphia boarded right on time and all seemed well. I was buckled in to a window seat near the rear of the plane as we pushed back from the jetway.<br /><br />Once away from the terminal the plane stopped on the tarmac whereI heard the metallic whir and whining crescendo of the left engine starting up. This was soon followed by the same metallic whir from the right engine. It was during this process that a sudden loud POP! came from the rear of the plane, much like a large firecracker or small electrical explosion, whereupon the entire plane went instantly dark and silent. The engines, even the little fans above the seats, everything stopped working amidst utter silence.<br /><br />Needless to say this proved somewhat unsettling. A low murmur rose from the passengers as we sat in darkness awaiting word from the flight crew. After about 20 seconds or so, emergency lighting dully illuminated the darkness, but still utter silence. After two very long minutes or so, it was apparent that a tug was pulling us back to the gate. <span style="font-style: italic;">Great!</span><br /><br />After reaching the gate, lights, fans and gentle music returned. The flight crew came on the intercom to announce that a transformer used to start the engine had blown. This was a common problem we were assured, and we would be back on our way in 20 minutes or so once repairs were completed.<br /><br />As you can imagine, the duration of the flight from Atlanta to Philadelphia was spent harboring visions of transformers popping at 30,000 feet, the darkened plane plummeting silently, minute upon minute, to the earth below. Suffice it to say the alcohol concession did quite well on that flight. I couldn't have been happier when the wheels finally touched down in Philadelphia.<br /><br />-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBI2F41qf9gF3I3iTpYY4cfkwuuqbug4rJokqBFQm0Td1eCi_s_gbPzvpXvanwWmO0Nk45r6eIVNESYfdEW6KnDdUifWNDZ95XaZ6_xs8kFHxsQ2_ELy4HlgkN23gC6ZvZ2cMa6d82_IeN/s1600/Arches+Book+Company+Front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 123px; height: 90px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBI2F41qf9gF3I3iTpYY4cfkwuuqbug4rJokqBFQm0Td1eCi_s_gbPzvpXvanwWmO0Nk45r6eIVNESYfdEW6KnDdUifWNDZ95XaZ6_xs8kFHxsQ2_ELy4HlgkN23gC6ZvZ2cMa6d82_IeN/s320/Arches+Book+Company+Front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585364968193730" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ANLn4WXAph_KAdGPgdjFee8cAVAAKVfvnqSpv0_BzQ3t3fNyKzLq07Y1dD1QFCLgB44oHE3uCgL8Rf20uk08tjcPzEviQus7e9q-hIRpl-TxYAkzjYewP7cIz9CD-IzcTFYZR1hsBVOH/s1600/Mormon+Tabernacle+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 67px; height: 88px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ANLn4WXAph_KAdGPgdjFee8cAVAAKVfvnqSpv0_BzQ3t3fNyKzLq07Y1dD1QFCLgB44oHE3uCgL8Rf20uk08tjcPzEviQus7e9q-hIRpl-TxYAkzjYewP7cIz9CD-IzcTFYZR1hsBVOH/s320/Mormon+Tabernacle+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585370403229922" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitiL1eYz1kB8mH7zE2VS2y2C4r1Muy0dhTu2ufJXXZw9f9ptLeAtqw6fTkZsKZM_UP7OeX02Oym8QH-v6LAnL6cu4_0NTm2wdIbfKsQmO6BT5ZJc2xwrMfpPaoW8yDQTSwRbLbpzAGGmQy/s1600/Grand+Teton+Mt+Owen+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 118px; height: 88px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitiL1eYz1kB8mH7zE2VS2y2C4r1Muy0dhTu2ufJXXZw9f9ptLeAtqw6fTkZsKZM_UP7OeX02Oym8QH-v6LAnL6cu4_0NTm2wdIbfKsQmO6BT5ZJc2xwrMfpPaoW8yDQTSwRbLbpzAGGmQy/s320/Grand+Teton+Mt+Owen+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585373324341922" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAmfW5IFRgxUDPGZRCNcAlKE67ehZPMchFqawEpDWvCkbwgroPm6qy-7vp8d4-QrXd0E9oJV3ECzRksAq_FP-Kx26eCESz7I-fr3_5byusirKnZEmBRy6A2ReQaLJ7ZHYPNuEeR7EyibY/s1600/The+Flatirons.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 116px; height: 87px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPAmfW5IFRgxUDPGZRCNcAlKE67ehZPMchFqawEpDWvCkbwgroPm6qy-7vp8d4-QrXd0E9oJV3ECzRksAq_FP-Kx26eCESz7I-fr3_5byusirKnZEmBRy6A2ReQaLJ7ZHYPNuEeR7EyibY/s320/The+Flatirons.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465586176525375378" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzFSUXrh9yOHy8tJodGFWtDgPgwGEEohzRpZL2LVNoAdGDkrK0lPoL6Otp8oSs_ipEicjdwByHabtTkwf4ZwFQrdYRHImWNEr46EvKr7NcKN5dpMSsOTEkm8z2uzgwBRjybw2AfMRc3eZ/s1600/YS+Buffalo+Roam+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 165px; height: 88px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbzFSUXrh9yOHy8tJodGFWtDgPgwGEEohzRpZL2LVNoAdGDkrK0lPoL6Otp8oSs_ipEicjdwByHabtTkwf4ZwFQrdYRHImWNEr46EvKr7NcKN5dpMSsOTEkm8z2uzgwBRjybw2AfMRc3eZ/s320/YS+Buffalo+Roam+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5465585383730897986" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">In Conclusion</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I hope you enjoyed our Western Sojourn together. We traveled from Denver and Boulder through the Rockies to the Tetons and Yellowstone. From Wyoming down through Salt Lake City and the land of the Mormons, through Moab, Aspen and the front range of Colorado Springs.</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">We enjoyed the splendors of the Pacific northwest from Portland to Bend and from Astoria to Seaside. There were mountains climbed, near misses with bear and buffalo, geysers witnessed and many a great meal and hearty libation. Through it all we visited nearly 40 independent bookstores and met a ton of exceptional people who daily dedicate their lives to books.</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">I can't say enough about the dedication and commitment of this most diverse group of booklovers I met along the way. Many of the stores I visited along my two thousand mile journey have been around for decades, and there's no hiding the fact that everyone involved harbors a deep and abiding passion for books and literature. We can only hope that in this age of Kindle, e-readers and Google, that these stores, who's passion and commitment have so far withstood the test of time, are not relegated to the footnote of history.</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">Thanks for coming along, I've enjoyed having you, and I hope you stay tuned for more Book Traveler reports from the road.</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">-BT</span></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><br /><br /><br /><br /></span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-56751354132240478802009-09-28T13:54:00.001-07:002009-11-20T10:33:48.266-08:00Bend But Don't Break<span style="font-style: italic;">Preamble</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><br />Before you dive head first into this wildly anticipated, second to last entry of your humble Booktraveler's Western Sojourn Extravaganza, a couple of brief and highly personal...well, maybe not </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >that </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >personal...comments or observations, if you will.<br /><br />For those of you following the blog, you'll notice that a fair amount of time has passed since the trip began. You'll probably also notice that it has been quite a while since the last post. This may have you thinking: is this trip ever going to end? Did the Booktraveler move to Oregon, go on a month long bender and disappear Into the Wild? Should we contact the authorities? Jon Krakauer perhaps?<br /><br />Well, not to worry. Just as Mark Twain wrote "Roughing It" to great acclaim </span><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;font-size:85%;" >years </span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >after he returned from his sojourn out west, your humble Booktraveler needed a little extra time, merely a few short weeks, to bring things to a resounding, heart pounding conclusion. Not that I'm comparing myself to Mark Twain, mind you - although a few weeks is certainly a lot shorter than a few years - as far as work ethic goes.<br /><br />Anyway, to make a long story short, the grinding necessities and whirling timetables of your humble Booktraveler's life took a firm grip towards the end of the trip, ripped me asunder and deposited me here, weeks later, stunned and disheveled, but no worse for wear and tear, to complete the task.<br /><br />Don't worry my friends and readers: with a prodigious memory, copious notes, ample photography and a rapacious (or at least rapier) wit, I am now fully geared up to complete the task and share with you the exciting final chapters of the journey on which I set out lo those many, many weeks ago.<br /><br />That you are still here to read and enjoy these entries is a testament not only to you as an individual, but to the outstanding qualities of your superior character and intellect. For this, I applaud and thank you!<br /><br />That said, without any further ado, let us continue tracing with great anticipation the eventful final daze of our western sojourn together.</span><br /><br />------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Bend But Don't Break</span><br /><br />As anticipated, it was a rough go the next morning. Somehow we managed to get up, get out and on our way to Bend in the first glow of morning, heading east out of Portland along the Columbia River in my host's two door Jeep Wrangler. Although the Jeep's doors and top were attached, the back flaps were tied open, making for a bracing (and noisy) drive up and over the Cascades.<br /><br />With multiple layers of clothing and heat going full blast there was still quite a chill once we got up over the 3,500 foot level.This was in August, mind you! After passing through the quaintly named towns of Zigzag, Rhododendron and Government Camp, we made it up and over 4,100 foot Barlow Pass along the shoulder of Mt. Hood and began our long descent to the sparse, arid plains to the east. Looking back, the topmost peak of Mt. Hood, which looked close enough to touch, was crowned in majestic pink and gold by the cresting morning sun.<br /><br />For every thousand feet we descended the temperature warmed by ten degrees. This made it eminently more pleasant by the time we made it down to the aptly named Warm Springs Indian Reservation, allowing me to abandon a layer or two and truly enjoy the cool summer morning. From there we headed over the spectacular Deschutes River canyon and up onto the flats of the eastern high plains.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADsbDwBpBANJ9mBD5kRIsCO8XaBzybyyZ2c57k3Z4EK0KSJC4MtdHnqVS9E3aHLJvf3cJfV3hoGYzBQn7ntn8TLoCn1fBFZGUexTDxpDDHqjJFIg2A6B0FQtKs3c0H_ahdzTUNTEl-qXM/s1600/Smith+Rocks+A.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjADsbDwBpBANJ9mBD5kRIsCO8XaBzybyyZ2c57k3Z4EK0KSJC4MtdHnqVS9E3aHLJvf3cJfV3hoGYzBQn7ntn8TLoCn1fBFZGUexTDxpDDHqjJFIg2A6B0FQtKs3c0H_ahdzTUNTEl-qXM/s320/Smith+Rocks+A.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406240676665324466" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAtrGEiUcpLeae5dhJv8rTTzLLqnj8A4iSMgKSoKOI9PUfVK3t6aYG2VE3nURZYk7dxfeKYjSAh4L_QkMT6JOSgdYKP3d4lZtZsQByRRlmSBih1Ooreuyhn-BgefKf0E_WPhGIdEGRipdr/s1600/Smith+Rocks+B.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAtrGEiUcpLeae5dhJv8rTTzLLqnj8A4iSMgKSoKOI9PUfVK3t6aYG2VE3nURZYk7dxfeKYjSAh4L_QkMT6JOSgdYKP3d4lZtZsQByRRlmSBih1Ooreuyhn-BgefKf0E_WPhGIdEGRipdr/s320/Smith+Rocks+B.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406240679573739570" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Two views of Smith Rocks State Park.</span><br /><br />We stopped briefly to take in the beauty of Smith Rocks State Park, whose rocky promontories and scorched valley floors provide startling contrast to the thick forests of the Cascades. We then continued south through Redmond and onward to the outdoor paradise of Bend.<br /><br />Starting out as a small logging town perched along a scenic bend in the Deschutes River in the early 1900's, Bend has grown to become the largest city in central Oregon with an estimated (pre-recession) population approaching 200,000. The reason for this astounding growth is the unparalleled richness and variety of outdoor activities that draws people to the region. It runs the gamut: from kayaking, rafting, fishing, climbing, backpacking and golf in the summer to world class skiing and snowboarding, cross country skiing and treking in the winter. If that weren't enough, the abundance of nearby natural wonders are ample to keep even the most overactive outdoorsy type satisfied for decades.<br /><br />After passing through the ubiquitous "anywhere USA" big box store section north of town, we headed through historic downtown, past scenic Mirror Pond, then west on highway 372 to our first stop, Mt. Bachelor, 30 minutes west of town. This world-renowned ski area sits on the rugged face of its imposing namesake volcano, cresting at a blustery 9,000 feet in altitude. In the summer you can ride the chair lift up to Pine Marten Lodge for spectacular views of the region's other main attractions, the towering The Three Sisters and Broken Top volcanoes, which rise above the tree lined valley to the north.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7iDSaBg3OhWLnOy8VTvnze5DLOUlgbHih4-hojxlYxPat9cavA3R2C9oxzHpg3K-mGYALCe9KiqqHZ2jgSinta6T16WblZoQYItOEdgxigTO6xK8tKWvH-p1GJ9U-C27sued1dTqgjkS/s1600/View+of+Sisters+from+Mt.+Bachelor.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7iDSaBg3OhWLnOy8VTvnze5DLOUlgbHih4-hojxlYxPat9cavA3R2C9oxzHpg3K-mGYALCe9KiqqHZ2jgSinta6T16WblZoQYItOEdgxigTO6xK8tKWvH-p1GJ9U-C27sued1dTqgjkS/s320/View+of+Sisters+from+Mt.+Bachelor.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406242541107151218" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB108OvHQNtlBkYviVqHLkps3her8hPAOiGFF1H7CQfZ0VNZO5O9KwInETUFD3NVFbnuJaQemvCM7JJq9MonxaHBpUCC4FKtocVtgdtFz9S-0bd61jXoOf3vjLOUR2sy5QH6NcoJjZIR1k/s1600/View+from+the+Ski+Lift+Mt.+Bachelor.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiB108OvHQNtlBkYviVqHLkps3her8hPAOiGFF1H7CQfZ0VNZO5O9KwInETUFD3NVFbnuJaQemvCM7JJq9MonxaHBpUCC4FKtocVtgdtFz9S-0bd61jXoOf3vjLOUR2sy5QH6NcoJjZIR1k/s320/View+from+the+Ski+Lift+Mt.+Bachelor.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406242788656017650" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Views from the Mt Bachelor ski lift looking across to Three Sisters and Broken Top.</span><br /><br />After paying the requisite fee we jumped aboard the lift and headed up to the Lodge, enjoying spectacular views along the way. Disembarking just above treeline at 7,700 feet, you're met with stunning views of the rugged Mt. Bachelor peak and turning around, the amazing beauty of Three Sisters and Broken Top. There's a frisbee golf course at this level of the mountain, and I saw more than a few discs get hurled into cracks and crags along the rocky face, never to be seen again. Bummer Dude!<br /><br />We walked around the otherworldly terrain, enjoying views from as many angles as possible. After stopping in the lodge for refreshments, we headed back to enjoy the unique thrill of riding the ski lift <span style="font-style: italic;">down </span>the mountain. A unique experience to say the least. It was time for lunch as we headed back into Bend, and on the recommendation of my friend and host, we stopped at the <a style="" href="http://www.cascadelakes.com/locations/The_Lodge/">Cascade Lakes Brewing Company Lodge</a> just outside of town for some fine home brew and victuals. Ohhhh baby, was it ever worth it...just for the beer alone!<br /><br />After a lager or two or three, we headed in to explore the wide variety of shops, stores, specialty retail outlets and restaurants skirting scenic Bond and Wall Streets in the central downtown district near Mirror Pond. There, much to my surprise, I discovered a veritable cornucopia of unique used bookstores and indies offering a prolific potpourri of printed perusables along with great coffee and entertainment to boot!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVaKBsXNzBIKDScA9axfXYKqYkXE1iM8VTggYajaDb69gHtW7Y67rUfTzVebftej88IeHIt4NTbr4Zd6yq91bHlU3hvf24S0kbb-ocI9Xx0SU7FeNng_c_bPVV2FbKuTCTjucsCp80WS4s/s1600/Dudley's+Exterior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVaKBsXNzBIKDScA9axfXYKqYkXE1iM8VTggYajaDb69gHtW7Y67rUfTzVebftej88IeHIt4NTbr4Zd6yq91bHlU3hvf24S0kbb-ocI9Xx0SU7FeNng_c_bPVV2FbKuTCTjucsCp80WS4s/s320/Dudley's+Exterior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406243863950302050" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEganEhiA0Qm58nsxHmzRo1FhwfpiALPfHnu1rYiTrG0PR8tsQ1d9DhOdI3JAjM3_2hDtftQOAVlKDXHrSctn2mqS2rnDJmW72g0YElwtWxsqQ1jN2bQrlMUC_jGBJBl5UZJ3o5cu5aYKIkE/s1600/Dudley's+Interior+A.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 284px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEganEhiA0Qm58nsxHmzRo1FhwfpiALPfHnu1rYiTrG0PR8tsQ1d9DhOdI3JAjM3_2hDtftQOAVlKDXHrSctn2mqS2rnDJmW72g0YElwtWxsqQ1jN2bQrlMUC_jGBJBl5UZJ3o5cu5aYKIkE/s320/Dudley's+Interior+A.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406243874575166418" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjItfa2YQKjkdAg7uCSNEOBReOmdyu0S45EJhjp5gaDrctn8sqnvoikIIx54cCThPlkLnjRv21nXMy6vgTx1kUKOqu4SpBvb1TBfhQcH5HjV4TlwKVcQ5Ipr3oRllNKwqqkS8dewUJw4qfJ/s1600/Dudley's+Interior+B.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 211px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjItfa2YQKjkdAg7uCSNEOBReOmdyu0S45EJhjp5gaDrctn8sqnvoikIIx54cCThPlkLnjRv21nXMy6vgTx1kUKOqu4SpBvb1TBfhQcH5HjV4TlwKVcQ5Ipr3oRllNKwqqkS8dewUJw4qfJ/s320/Dudley's+Interior+B.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406243884164960658" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qoqohDOYOcJd_TevuCxLZbHFvA1-7BdlZAch0wIplEhhzoaS1c_2f3jUkXh6v5YtMj9epJC9OYgzEuc99kqPP9kUm-375r7T-P29cA58ZnVUIRNZHCf7aXxsa3ISRfEh5KCFhtNu9x2K/s1600/Dudley's+Upstairs.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 281px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_qoqohDOYOcJd_TevuCxLZbHFvA1-7BdlZAch0wIplEhhzoaS1c_2f3jUkXh6v5YtMj9epJC9OYgzEuc99kqPP9kUm-375r7T-P29cA58ZnVUIRNZHCf7aXxsa3ISRfEh5KCFhtNu9x2K/s320/Dudley's+Upstairs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406244433336672706" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Dudley's Bookshop Cafe. Clockwise from top left: facade, coffee bar, downstairs lounge and upstairs reading room.</span><br /><br /><a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://dudleysbookshopcafe.blogspot.com/">Dudley's Bookshop Cafe</a> at 135 NW Minnesota offers a great selection of new and used books in a colorful and cordial establishment that has ample places to sit, relax and enjoy. There's a great coffee bar with coffee, espresso, teas and a range of delectable treats downstairs, with a comfortable upstairs that offers reading solitude within a series of huge windows that offer a superb view of the street below, far above the maddening crowd. Opened in December of 2008, Dudley's features work by local authors and artisans as well as a bustling schedule of live readings and musical performances. It's a one stop cultural collective that has a little something for everyone and well worth a visit if you find yourself wandering aimlessly around town looking for a cultural fix.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBFhhkaqcVb6FpcyKAQpuHkWleMP5dXws-jyXBvcMTgMplVcU4uCmr78wfVVyUrInJAiie6NSFiyGS5pNELqeplTyTxSe3nUTe-M3JbObB_zwjj6SuC-8GXJnvLNso9RqsHT30OOENRS3/s1600/Pegasus+Books+Exterior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkBFhhkaqcVb6FpcyKAQpuHkWleMP5dXws-jyXBvcMTgMplVcU4uCmr78wfVVyUrInJAiie6NSFiyGS5pNELqeplTyTxSe3nUTe-M3JbObB_zwjj6SuC-8GXJnvLNso9RqsHT30OOENRS3/s320/Pegasus+Books+Exterior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406244832959320242" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwJk3BSpk4jbGGwzcsCuBfzUo0s1cJPBQ_A5u-VrSqkGHL09UrbFfphgX89TmiOdYQt3_5Dc_O1PkY5jKpRyvx0d8sI_lC2oHD8clX1N1Zl_Ve7pGJ7BBUI1CRBz6Pns_Iy1SvHPorRbo/s1600/Pegasus+Books+Interior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 294px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXwJk3BSpk4jbGGwzcsCuBfzUo0s1cJPBQ_A5u-VrSqkGHL09UrbFfphgX89TmiOdYQt3_5Dc_O1PkY5jKpRyvx0d8sI_lC2oHD8clX1N1Zl_Ve7pGJ7BBUI1CRBz6Pns_Iy1SvHPorRbo/s320/Pegasus+Books+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406244838471981378" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Pegasus Books, front and interior featuring owner Duncan McCreary.<br /><br /></span>A short block away from Dudley's is <a style="font-weight: bold;" href="http://pegasusbooksofbend.blogspot.com/">Pegasus Books</a>, owned by Duncan and Linda McCreary. Pegasus has been a staple of the community for over 25 years offering an outstanding and interesting collection of comics, graphic novels, pop culture ephemera, action figures and toys along with a great selection of new and used books. The store is a must see simply for the posters and action figures alone, and Duncan is a helpful and knowledgeable host. Great place for the enthusiast and layman alike. You can read Duncan's blog at <a href="http://pegasusbooksofbend.blogspot.com/">http://pegasusbooksofbend.blogspot.com/</a> .<br /><br />Duncan and Linda also own a great little used book indie on the outskirts of town called <span style="font-weight: bold;">The Bookmark</span> on Greenwood Avenue. It offers a diverse selection of general used titles covering a broad range of subjects from bestsellers to local interest, all at great prices. Unfortunately we arrived there too late to go in (they were already closed for the day) so all I could do was view it drooling from the window. Hopefully they'll be able to clean the window and I'll be able to stop in on my next visit to Bend.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoIumnHBIjebmu4t4HALb0FgEhu-XFpGI7wpB-bCadgFFFEiJ1kdKZD7eEb3LCH_G1lmafN6Cbu7wsp7Lil30bTtxx-fmUxrggErbJHugLIVRxg0vjnYIUTSoPt8Lb518dzsJ5L8H2B3t/s1600/The+Bookmark+Used+Books+Ext.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 224px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYoIumnHBIjebmu4t4HALb0FgEhu-XFpGI7wpB-bCadgFFFEiJ1kdKZD7eEb3LCH_G1lmafN6Cbu7wsp7Lil30bTtxx-fmUxrggErbJHugLIVRxg0vjnYIUTSoPt8Lb518dzsJ5L8H2B3t/s320/The+Bookmark+Used+Books+Ext.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406249617086673698" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAytcsCJGsKbmURZey-pirc2DY0PiKm0gz-Yy-QhYwbjpy45y7rfMLh8NAfykjOrEVkbQrmwPqgLmPqwMecf1uYuwvgETNEsxT8WfWBY-fzPET-c_-yzU7Bt2tXJfGVgNmTaZWuit065c/s1600/The+Bookmark+Interior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRAytcsCJGsKbmURZey-pirc2DY0PiKm0gz-Yy-QhYwbjpy45y7rfMLh8NAfykjOrEVkbQrmwPqgLmPqwMecf1uYuwvgETNEsxT8WfWBY-fzPET-c_-yzU7Bt2tXJfGVgNmTaZWuit065c/s320/The+Bookmark+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406249612771302050" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: The Bookmark, outside and in.</span><br /><br />Just across the street from The Bookmark is <span style="font-weight: bold;">The Open Book</span>, also on Greenwood Avenue, which features a great selection of used books and an even greater selection of used and reasonably priced CD's. Last but certainly not least, there's <span style="font-weight: bold;">Between the Covers Bookstore</span> on Delaware Ave., which offers a great selection of used books along with an outstanding coffee shop, or perhaps it's the other way around.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdw9UtdOCVTWFQreJLE_eYwXVLgI6f2o3l_41ancQD3xdje6Phfd7Tn3PL2spG4wgEHIo3e0X0UNr88rU1YIgH1uVC7tWphhVKhRJVaGeA_MXYVpIf22J1fRJKgdgBi6QMAcKoRjyEenm/s1600/Between+the+Covers+Bookstore+Ext.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdw9UtdOCVTWFQreJLE_eYwXVLgI6f2o3l_41ancQD3xdje6Phfd7Tn3PL2spG4wgEHIo3e0X0UNr88rU1YIgH1uVC7tWphhVKhRJVaGeA_MXYVpIf22J1fRJKgdgBi6QMAcKoRjyEenm/s320/Between+the+Covers+Bookstore+Ext.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406243844451353634" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX05e_25uUMOxRlsudUVTSAmi0lixz6cYSqsufB4p_IwxEn0uy6DN58f6bD8Jy8qqYHHY76lGzPjhqZDEiS_naug2XYCKCkD7NjXiPt_XgPb9GwuHPOqNYlM9Wkd0ueygN1ARbow0POBh/s1600/The+Open+Book+Interior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX05e_25uUMOxRlsudUVTSAmi0lixz6cYSqsufB4p_IwxEn0uy6DN58f6bD8Jy8qqYHHY76lGzPjhqZDEiS_naug2XYCKCkD7NjXiPt_XgPb9GwuHPOqNYlM9Wkd0ueygN1ARbow0POBh/s320/The+Open+Book+Interior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406249622244358466" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Between The Covers bookstore and coffee bar.</span><br /><br />Anyway you slice it, Bend is a bodacious bonanza for any bibliophile and we're not even mentioning the large bookstore chains just out of town. At any rate it was getting late and we stopped in at the pub and brewery at <a href="http://www.mcmenamins.com/index.php?loc=98">McMenamins Old St. Francis School</a> for dinner and draft specialties, after which we retired to our digs at the Hampton Inn outside town. I usually stay at the fabulous <a href="http://www.millinn.com/">Mill Inn </a>when in Bend, but they were booked so I had to opt for the antiseptic comforts of the national chain.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhno-eGnjhllTEgw6XftDrbHjnY0QzmP3q92bF-s-5hgjCh3flYykxwVj74r7nyYvA2jzK1gqdXrbDl5foZRPBgkkLbSNY1rlwqa_7ciVHDpR8ttC_z2IR6-ZkIHYN2broOPhVQukRSknNr/s1600/Mt+Bachelor+Morning+Jeep.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 297px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhno-eGnjhllTEgw6XftDrbHjnY0QzmP3q92bF-s-5hgjCh3flYykxwVj74r7nyYvA2jzK1gqdXrbDl5foZRPBgkkLbSNY1rlwqa_7ciVHDpR8ttC_z2IR6-ZkIHYN2broOPhVQukRSknNr/s320/Mt+Bachelor+Morning+Jeep.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406242558514538642" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_W_QU3jY_dCF5C3BCD3Gv8DMZSg45kxJGmbPe7a7Qzy2hSXlwkwiSOiX4vyrBsqaQGOojdb7Ffdkt9njxKNaO5XWj9LaL7oFIkg6czKrAWkXmmuNTa3LMYLcJe9wOkJLRJUqkylLWGcO/s1600/South+Sister.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL_W_QU3jY_dCF5C3BCD3Gv8DMZSg45kxJGmbPe7a7Qzy2hSXlwkwiSOiX4vyrBsqaQGOojdb7Ffdkt9njxKNaO5XWj9LaL7oFIkg6czKrAWkXmmuNTa3LMYLcJe9wOkJLRJUqkylLWGcO/s320/South+Sister.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406243161215622402" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left: </span>Early morning drive to South Sister, Mt. Bachelor in the background.<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Our destination: the summit of South Sister<br /></span><br />Next morning we were up before the sun and headed west again, this time to scale South Sister, Oregon's third highest peak after Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. We stopped at a local eatery and grabbed a couple of breakfast sandwiches to go, along with supplies for the hike. It was a 12 mile round trip hike going up (and then back down, let's not forget) 5,000 feet in altitude or 10,000 feet total.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBcVzODSHZVhAihs_YT5DyIT30ejIWm6Dz9w3nBdK4HF_GZNZfG3GKQ8NW7ZsHnSS6Ph0OjT2qPx6cu3-TY7LsxOOHmpoZFWWUZJMv01TJZKLusscOIlUI7dbOnGjA1ffTybT-uHR63HE/s1600/South+Sister+Heading+Up.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdBcVzODSHZVhAihs_YT5DyIT30ejIWm6Dz9w3nBdK4HF_GZNZfG3GKQ8NW7ZsHnSS6Ph0OjT2qPx6cu3-TY7LsxOOHmpoZFWWUZJMv01TJZKLusscOIlUI7dbOnGjA1ffTybT-uHR63HE/s320/South+Sister+Heading+Up.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406244846225740386" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMeHIM2bPZbH8iQ1PqBg3C6N1p_Hsc1fMjQ_yv8nWy7FtiVRBxku8XqpJZC1F89PGMBOUQH9YdHQBHZHrG0_Vk4uloESO5iTAuMMCixviJ7jCchFSOJSmpe4e4casMM6oF22q1_5tUPIN/s1600/Broken+Top+Descending+SSister.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMeHIM2bPZbH8iQ1PqBg3C6N1p_Hsc1fMjQ_yv8nWy7FtiVRBxku8XqpJZC1F89PGMBOUQH9YdHQBHZHrG0_Vk4uloESO5iTAuMMCixviJ7jCchFSOJSmpe4e4casMM6oF22q1_5tUPIN/s320/Broken+Top+Descending+SSister.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406243852995293122" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Halfway up South Sister heading to the final steeps.<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Right</span>:</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" > Broken Top mountain in the distance taken during the final ascent.</span><br /><br /><br />It was a beautiful morning when we set out. Hazy, with just enough clouds clinging to the peaks to make it supremely breathtaking. The trail head starts from the parking lot at Devil's Lake Campground out past Mt. Bachelor. Even at this early hour it was hard to find parking and groups of hikers were already scurrying across the highway. We found out later there was a large group of marines climbing the mountain that day, which was one of the reasons why it was so crowded at 6 am.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinNMzyi_CUHhdUtd-2VFsM-OU6hv0JywN4iJ8GCRAIh9XMaR6wxDYbqtGiwYKXt75VbzNVihrE49E8q68bDFuU4LRlExjAooy8yZ1MVWNWf1fdSe5iLMsQrmuCWLepF4XEjYzA-Pd6U1sO/s1600/South+Sister+Final+Ascent.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinNMzyi_CUHhdUtd-2VFsM-OU6hv0JywN4iJ8GCRAIh9XMaR6wxDYbqtGiwYKXt75VbzNVihrE49E8q68bDFuU4LRlExjAooy8yZ1MVWNWf1fdSe5iLMsQrmuCWLepF4XEjYzA-Pd6U1sO/s320/South+Sister+Final+Ascent.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406244844014671314" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPGHfJs6-2LazmEg1Ezlj-1xREmwURol81rxW5pIZwG2wsaP1i9kBxRKshPvMQlGNzTOQMJj86KjHWni7oNhCUW8i7ejQQ5W1rkIkuzWRUfkN-zP5lsC-1h9Kka6vfx4dUNG-L-_u5YFNe/s1600/Crossing+the+Northern+Rim.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPGHfJs6-2LazmEg1Ezlj-1xREmwURol81rxW5pIZwG2wsaP1i9kBxRKshPvMQlGNzTOQMJj86KjHWni7oNhCUW8i7ejQQ5W1rkIkuzWRUfkN-zP5lsC-1h9Kka6vfx4dUNG-L-_u5YFNe/s320/Crossing+the+Northern+Rim.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406242565183054626" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Near the top of South Sister looking down the rugged trail.<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Right</span>:</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" > North Rim of South Sister. Watch that last step, it's a doozy!</span><br /><br />Once on the trail, the crowd cleared quickly and we soon found ourselves panting alone on our way up the mountainside, caressed by the gently sounds of nearby cascades. For the first three miles, the trail winds its way up through thick temperate forest. At you approach the mid section of the climb however, the trees fall away, providing spectacular views of the stark, rough hewn landscape.<br /><br />The trail continues over a relatively easy high shoulder to the base of the steep final section of the climb. From there it's a steep, two mile, 3,000 foot climb over loose rock and gravel to reach the summit, the meat and potatoes of the climb. Even at this relatively low altitude, the climb proved quite formidable. It was slow and meticulous going, but well worth it once we reached the top where, chests heaving, we were rewarded by 360 degree views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. I'll let the photos speak for themselves.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NgkoanO6cGrTvvqFqoQNgc1RX1b2o7d4-q_Y4y8dUjZNJZLKHudgiF6gN-qTXz3kdX0EIUZFX0j_jv0XhD1E9-bWs7aLk8AszzMwELw0RWRYi21ihln0B2Pf4l8lm6qf0aThz64Ll5PC/s1600/view+from+the+top.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_NgkoanO6cGrTvvqFqoQNgc1RX1b2o7d4-q_Y4y8dUjZNJZLKHudgiF6gN-qTXz3kdX0EIUZFX0j_jv0XhD1E9-bWs7aLk8AszzMwELw0RWRYi21ihln0B2Pf4l8lm6qf0aThz64Ll5PC/s320/view+from+the+top.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406242499377920546" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibcQvGdczmuxxlKjqwY4YPwyF8obXIoZ5wghC-cyZmAcXVDNcjLMFipmit81lhbn_4n8Weloj-o6sY_70xTsV8n0GlCDC2AJkUm6VG750eewK7iPLRMGjcm2NcMj_kFrjZC-gKJ5XKjt68/s1600/South+Sister+Caldera+Snow+Field.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibcQvGdczmuxxlKjqwY4YPwyF8obXIoZ5wghC-cyZmAcXVDNcjLMFipmit81lhbn_4n8Weloj-o6sY_70xTsV8n0GlCDC2AJkUm6VG750eewK7iPLRMGjcm2NcMj_kFrjZC-gKJ5XKjt68/s320/South+Sister+Caldera+Snow+Field.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406249610014527922" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Views of Middle and North Sister from the summit.<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Right</span>:</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" > Crossing the snow filled caldera at the summit to begin our descent</span>.<br /><br /><br />At 10,353 feet, the top of South Sister is a broad, glaciated caldera about a half mile across. We climbed around the difficult northern ridge and had lunch with our feet dangling off a 500 foot drop, with Middle and North Sisters standing tall above the beautiful snow laced valley below. After about an hour at the top, we headed back directly across the caldera glacier to the trail head to begin our descent down the mountain.<br /><br />Peering down the steep crusty trail, I was amazed to see a near continuous line of humanity snaking up from the rocky reaches below. Starting down, the unrelenting downward pressure on my knees had me shifting quickly from a knee buckling plod to a faster albeit more dangerous jog down the rugged terrain. While this provided welcome relief for my knees and greatly speeded the descent, I didn't feel much love from the hikers on their way up who found us suddenly bearing down on them in an hail of roiling dust and igneous rocks. Of course, it was also abundantly clear that many of the people along the trail had no business whatsoever being on the mountain.<br /><br />As we reached the bottom of the initial 2-mile descent, we found a group of people gathered around a large and rather rotund woman in sneakers wearing orange socks and shorts and a white t-shirt. She was rolling around in the dirt screaming and, I might add, working up quite a formidable cloud of dust. Spit came out in spurts and drops from the corners of the dirt covered mouth as she cried. Everything was covered in dust, including her hair, and a redish mud was beginning to form in areas bathed in sweat and spittle.<br /><br />Her party (and a growing crowd of interested bystanders) stood transfixed by the whole thing, unable to decide what to do. The woman bellowed hysterically through tears that she couldn't make it one more step. Seeing as they hadn't even made it to the base of the final 2-mile ascent, I had to agree wholeheartedly. However, a few of her companions were in no mood to turn around and had obviously discussed this eventuality beforehand. A fight ensued, which was our cue to continue on our merry way down the mountain.<br /><br />Another mile or so along the trail we came upon a mountain rescue team sitting in a large clearing. They were waiting for a medevac helicopter that had been called in to take out a middle aged man who was suffering from chest pains and having trouble breathing. A couple of the rescuers were attending to the victim who was now laying on the ground wearing an oxygen mask. The others stood around talking or smoking. Truth be told, some of the rescuers looked in as bad a shape as the victim after their three mile climb up to the clearing, and seemed none to pleased at the prospect of the hike back down.<br /><br />Continuing along, it seemed twice as far back down to the Jeep as it had seemed on the way up. Several times I thought we had lost the trail and would have to fend for ourselves cold and alone in the untamed wilderness overnight. Rounding the final bend however, there we were, back safe and sound at the Devil's Lake Campground and the comfort of a sun-warmed jeep with plenty of cold brewskies. A refreshing way to end the day's expedition!<br /><br />With an hour on top for lunch, the climb had taken about five and a half hours total. Not a bad way to wrap up our stay in Bend. We headed back into town to enjoy a late lunch at the Deschutes Brew Pub. Their microbrewery is located nearby, so it was great to enjoy my beloved Mirror Pond Ale on draft just a block or two from the source.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwttkPVBp1IYNyjAPB1e4lu2jKf9ag1KKXF67bii2PZENY_t_t_vOGK9XT_iMUYDJw2hAwRv7p1yHHWEY7gWsBhLSQOQZ9Zbg-WDoeykLoHw1wkbNXm2AuJUsB_dS07e0ObCJRizEwwrl9/s1600/Mt+Jefferson+from+Timberline+Lodge.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 557px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwttkPVBp1IYNyjAPB1e4lu2jKf9ag1KKXF67bii2PZENY_t_t_vOGK9XT_iMUYDJw2hAwRv7p1yHHWEY7gWsBhLSQOQZ9Zbg-WDoeykLoHw1wkbNXm2AuJUsB_dS07e0ObCJRizEwwrl9/s320/Mt+Jefferson+from+Timberline+Lodge.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406240685525247602" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Mount Jefferson viewed from Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood.</span><br /><br />We headed back for Portland full, tired, happy and bathed in the late afternoon sun. It was warm and comfortable and we enjoyed the panoramic view as we passed from the Sisters to Mt. Jefferson, then on towards Mt. Hood and the Cascades. It was getting late when we turned off the highway for a quick trip up to Timberline Lodge for a view of the Mt. Hood Summit. We walked around above the lodge and after a quick Mexican Coffee or two at the bar where we enjoyed spectacular views of the Summit, we made our way down to Portland and the comfort of our soft, inviting beds.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdaW7PvvYzS2QdCuA-6hjK3dKyWmAFbME1DfHTcYU3d9-KKAuWb4bUkQsZD60eOHqwhvYYmHHiJcBZLmYiAFe62XcujW1NCIcUcRey0gH1ZGQEykrThF36J3KQx5qKpkHxSFj8gYmHb5dj/s1600/Timberline+Lodge+Mt.+Hood.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 297px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdaW7PvvYzS2QdCuA-6hjK3dKyWmAFbME1DfHTcYU3d9-KKAuWb4bUkQsZD60eOHqwhvYYmHHiJcBZLmYiAFe62XcujW1NCIcUcRey0gH1ZGQEykrThF36J3KQx5qKpkHxSFj8gYmHb5dj/s320/Timberline+Lodge+Mt.+Hood.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406240689507968242" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkblyDAdYi5PF-dopaRQMT8IBLyNaJSCVtzmntByGWbEmcsL_Pei47QqHjopjHsa8cEFbLhjQiYIu6Lbtj8com3erE_mpthwF_85p8fZEuhiMnjel8zptJ0jN6X9gwyfYOayAsM9D3Mhd3/s1600/Mt+Hood+Near+Timberline+Lodge.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkblyDAdYi5PF-dopaRQMT8IBLyNaJSCVtzmntByGWbEmcsL_Pei47QqHjopjHsa8cEFbLhjQiYIu6Lbtj8com3erE_mpthwF_85p8fZEuhiMnjel8zptJ0jN6X9gwyfYOayAsM9D3Mhd3/s320/Mt+Hood+Near+Timberline+Lodge.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5406241571632296722" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Timberline Lodge Mt. Hood<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br />Right</span>:</span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" > Mt. Hood approaching the lodge on Timberline Drive.</span><br /><br />It was hard to believe I only had one day left before heading back to the east coast. I was determined to use it to the fullest. In the morning we were headed west to the coast and the storied port town of Astoria, Oregon, the land of Lewis and Clark, Kindergarten Cop and The Goonies. Here, the five mile wide Columbia River meets the North Pacific in one of the most treacherous stretches of marine navigation in the entire United States. It should be fun! Hopefully the weather will cooperate. Join me, won't you?<br /><br />Until then-<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-83525595240019751972009-09-23T11:55:00.000-07:002009-09-23T20:03:51.295-07:00City of Books, City of Beer, Oh What a City!Up and Adam, or up and at 'em as the case may be.<br /><br />Day two in Portland started out a little rainy so I took a little time to do some writing before heading back to <a href="http://miloscitycafe.com/default.aspx">Milo's City Cafe</a> (everybody loves Milo's) for another outstanding, albeit late, breakfast (complete with mimosa, of course). The rain had abated by the time I was done leaving behind a cloudy yet pleasant day.<br /><br />I hopped on the MAX once again and headed into town. This time I jumped off at Pioneer Courthouse square, often referred to as "Portland's Living Room". This beautiful red brick square is sort of a downtown hub, an epicenter for transportation and people watching, where street musicians, suburban professionals, the homelessness and near homeless all merge together into one very "<span style="font-style: italic;">Portlandesque</span>" street scene.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL892iGPd3eGaVBYrzyEn8fsjIKsWJUMZbUz0Msiq3AyOrZalWw98NmS5CexLexqdoGSZGuLcbKkSaK1WEgL-swTIFNmATKXqWOCxFi9oAbaJGi-h7C76Z4FnzR3uJmA87oe548eSAjv5r/s1600-h/Powell's+Ext+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL892iGPd3eGaVBYrzyEn8fsjIKsWJUMZbUz0Msiq3AyOrZalWw98NmS5CexLexqdoGSZGuLcbKkSaK1WEgL-swTIFNmATKXqWOCxFi9oAbaJGi-h7C76Z4FnzR3uJmA87oe548eSAjv5r/s320/Powell's+Ext+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775529475390162" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElJv_aSFSANF5hDd9y8_X10kyBNA8SMAtlPDVOiow8plpaejZm2rFSgixj_iJVvfMXY4HTDPWF3crNBYbibeZIbXfDdgVX6D4VYdvXMC0YNocBDPKyvCivA5oiteibxl2O-fr9DvmsWbj/s1600-h/Powell's+Layout+Map+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElJv_aSFSANF5hDd9y8_X10kyBNA8SMAtlPDVOiow8plpaejZm2rFSgixj_iJVvfMXY4HTDPWF3crNBYbibeZIbXfDdgVX6D4VYdvXMC0YNocBDPKyvCivA5oiteibxl2O-fr9DvmsWbj/s320/Powell's+Layout+Map+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775534172018258" border="0" /></a><br /><br />My destination today is <a href="http://www.powells.com/">Powell's City of Books</a>. Started from a humble store front in 1971, Powell's has grown into one of the best known bookstores in the country and one of Portland's most visited tourist destinations. Although they have several stores in and around the greater Portland region, their downtown store at 1005 West Burnside is the main attraction.<br /><br />This self-proclaimed "<span style="font-style: italic;">largest new and used bookstore in the world</span>" (and I believe it) occupies an entire city block and stocks over one million new and used books across 3,500 different sections in nine color coded rooms covering 68,000 square feet. As soon as you walk in you know you're in bookstore nirvana.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3yapbDY4g4E7RFJEHwy0DjZDE6SyiDDF29bdloiPOdlpv2RV2u-7GK15A0rpmernt1um1s6R1gf28fBlxWs073Dhd_ulILhNGy61PSBcCSiZXHJzJSj7C4H889jynLsf8hP2IU4MDH6T7/s1600-h/Powell's+Int+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3yapbDY4g4E7RFJEHwy0DjZDE6SyiDDF29bdloiPOdlpv2RV2u-7GK15A0rpmernt1um1s6R1gf28fBlxWs073Dhd_ulILhNGy61PSBcCSiZXHJzJSj7C4H889jynLsf8hP2IU4MDH6T7/s320/Powell's+Int+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775542874880834" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixc3WZL3URPZ8qwH_RGi3g4AmuCdBZQQ-1uHpDrKVLs_cmXkr5FQk5KXbiB44Rbaegk_hMORbtA-YvsG1xrMRTyW-WIIy6jIjjxMDpSwt3O7uXoPxMlRGWZws0ujcpBYkkDErkXIZONAFI/s1600-h/Powell's+Checkout+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 265px; height: 199px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixc3WZL3URPZ8qwH_RGi3g4AmuCdBZQQ-1uHpDrKVLs_cmXkr5FQk5KXbiB44Rbaegk_hMORbtA-YvsG1xrMRTyW-WIIy6jIjjxMDpSwt3O7uXoPxMlRGWZws0ujcpBYkkDErkXIZONAFI/s320/Powell's+Checkout+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775547114611442" border="0" /></a><br /><br />I entered the store at the main southeast corner entrance and proceeded past the huge counter where they buy over 3,000 books daily to grab a store map. The store is laid out in color coordinated sections on four different floors. After carefully studying the map I made my way around the store with relative ease, only getting lost only once or twice amidst the impenetrable jungle of book shelves.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIkV_qwiVxLGnddmDeeNPITM2fm1A7nhyPWCxt4GnAhQ2p-tTU_gmugZz1BdvG8D7FyXg_t3s-gY2bGmfgZTFLl96ghOoLPheHPSes1muGZ0wFkHsmMaFp1e34PVZgbN7LAlDAoDH63Fx/s1600-h/Powell's+Buying+Counter+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIkV_qwiVxLGnddmDeeNPITM2fm1A7nhyPWCxt4GnAhQ2p-tTU_gmugZz1BdvG8D7FyXg_t3s-gY2bGmfgZTFLl96ghOoLPheHPSes1muGZ0wFkHsmMaFp1e34PVZgbN7LAlDAoDH63Fx/s320/Powell's+Buying+Counter+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775555741773682" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hl4w3CB8K8AVxleAYhpFydZzUHD8MO1N_bOApsKQJE9G4_Yh3WIsH225GY9LC9QfWsq037KjbKmsfBenxy0utO7Xpx3H9rbrjcNQR9As5K3qo9d4b_IkMkKvoOLx3ifYVX7JP6fUfmW3/s1600-h/Powell's+World+Cup+Coffee+and+Tea+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_hl4w3CB8K8AVxleAYhpFydZzUHD8MO1N_bOApsKQJE9G4_Yh3WIsH225GY9LC9QfWsq037KjbKmsfBenxy0utO7Xpx3H9rbrjcNQR9As5K3qo9d4b_IkMkKvoOLx3ifYVX7JP6fUfmW3/s320/Powell's+World+Cup+Coffee+and+Tea+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775883342551170" border="0" /></a><br /><br />It takes a while to navigate the entire store, particularly when you're continually sidetracked by an endless array of amazing titles. After a few hours I wasn't sure if it was day or night or even what day it was. Luckily I was able to head down to <a href="http://www.worldcupcoffee.com/">World Cup Coffee and Tea</a>, Powell's in-store cafe emporium to regain my bearings with a cup of superb coffee, a sandwich and...alright...perhaps a chocolate chip cookie or two.<br /><br />I wandered back to the streets dazed and confused by the new reading lists swirling through my head. On my way back to Pioneer Courthouse Square to catch the MAX, I stopped in at a the nearby Deschutes Brewery for a pint (or two) of Mirror Pond Ale, my favorite Deschutes Brew. <span style="font-style: italic;">SWEETNESS!</span><br /><br />It was getting late and after leaving Deschutes I had to high tail it over to the MAX to get back across the river to meet my host for a drive over to SE Portland and the Hawthorne area to visit a couple of stores that are not as easily reached via public <span style="font-style: italic;">transpo</span>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicW3HuKZEH2xZzLXozxkp6TfmP2btKCN25w3Z_6GhKECRbIN_Ox5xBEndvljL8q6JZecs3Oal4k7zvPA8T_JrZA0oqH2udSjLWMKrNbrswS0i0WkXX63I6TiP3JOPuqrXLhArk5Q6mpZi/s1600-h/Longfellows+Books+Ext+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 269px; height: 202px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicW3HuKZEH2xZzLXozxkp6TfmP2btKCN25w3Z_6GhKECRbIN_Ox5xBEndvljL8q6JZecs3Oal4k7zvPA8T_JrZA0oqH2udSjLWMKrNbrswS0i0WkXX63I6TiP3JOPuqrXLhArk5Q6mpZi/s320/Longfellows+Books+Ext+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775886586740562" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghhphtupsQYFy8MdOamTftaim0D_F1cMkkRP9Af-EQYm_2EGdPBeAtQUiCp0CEjOlDbiefxW3_gEwkILo6Eft404nocUrF4e6iF-zWAnU80FNmGqHKZmgAAgvwJL6U2DWhjXBlzFteGIX-/s1600-h/Longfellows+Books+Int+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 268px; height: 202px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghhphtupsQYFy8MdOamTftaim0D_F1cMkkRP9Af-EQYm_2EGdPBeAtQUiCp0CEjOlDbiefxW3_gEwkILo6Eft404nocUrF4e6iF-zWAnU80FNmGqHKZmgAAgvwJL6U2DWhjXBlzFteGIX-/s320/Longfellows+Books+Int+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775896085825266" border="0" /></a><br /><br />First stop was <a href="http://www.longfellowspdx.com/">Longfellow's Bookstore</a>, one of Portland's oldest independent used bookstores at 1401 SE Division Street. Owned and operated by father-son partners Jon and Nile Hagen, the store has been in continuous operation for over 17 years and offers a great selection of quality used books, collectible periodicals, first editions and ephemera in a store of elegant and loosely organized chaos that's fun to peruse. While some components of the inventory are more than gently used, there are plenty of nooks and crannies full of interesting titles that make this staple of Portland's southeast community a worthwhile stop for any booklover.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_YdePP6OtpcxAcCnJDeLW78qJYup6CWrxWEikPlECDgqvfeg_uYU2sNTN3CKW4KMHVdg0pUDNGrWwu0FKYMUfX7iagf9NEXDKY0kExlvauFLGoYwe3vXfiZqJaqYASmKzca8HI1ebLfu/s1600-h/MBTB+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp_YdePP6OtpcxAcCnJDeLW78qJYup6CWrxWEikPlECDgqvfeg_uYU2sNTN3CKW4KMHVdg0pUDNGrWwu0FKYMUfX7iagf9NEXDKY0kExlvauFLGoYwe3vXfiZqJaqYASmKzca8HI1ebLfu/s320/MBTB+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775899316010914" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABYUUuhQz0_Li4q5JQ8Snibl38ZnfqdbYeTitOS3x-vJlzjSKD1JFuXkBje5_fY3mdgXYMID5utfmD1ArRc0FoeGUrVz7L6XzwF0X5uOpsh5Yd6pO6gotK01W-12HRi0yVxi6WagKPv4y/s1600-h/MBTB+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABYUUuhQz0_Li4q5JQ8Snibl38ZnfqdbYeTitOS3x-vJlzjSKD1JFuXkBje5_fY3mdgXYMID5utfmD1ArRc0FoeGUrVz7L6XzwF0X5uOpsh5Yd6pO6gotK01W-12HRi0yVxi6WagKPv4y/s320/MBTB+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384775905812666162" border="0" /></a><br /><br />After adding yet again to the collection of books I'll have to fit into my suitcase, we left Longfellows and headed east on Hawthorne Blvd. to the super clean, super fun and super specialized (I'm running out of superlatives) <a href="http://mbtb.com/">Murder by the Book</a>. This popular new and used indie has been "<span style="font-style: italic;">knockin' em dead</span>" on Hawthorne Blvd. since 1983. They offer a great selection of traditional and hard-to-find mysteries in cloth and paper, with a great collection of mystery author backlogs. Owners Barbara Tom and Carolyn Lane truly know their stuff and can answer virtually any genre-related question you could possibly have, and even a few you couldn't. If you're a mystery buff (and what exactly is a buff?) this place has got the goods.<br /><br />After the late start, it was quickly turning into a late finish and well past time for a dinner and a little R&R. We headed a little further east on Hawthorne and parked our rear ends at the <a href="http://bridgeportbrew.com/">Bridge Port Ale House</a> for a superb slow cooked dinner washed down with perhaps a few too many pints of their award winning IPA. Oh Portland, land of great food and great beer, it's so great to visit thee.<br /><br />Luckily, we avoided being pulled over on the way home (don't try this at home, kids). Staggering in well past midnight (sorry roommates) we hit our respective hays immediately, already lamenting the now immutable decision to leave for Bend, Oregon at the crack of dawn.<br /><br />It's going to be a rough morning, but well worth it to enjoy the outdoor paradise of Bend, Oregon where we'll be climbing South Sister, the third highest mountain in Oregon and of course, visiting the many indie new and used bookstores and superb restaurants that populate the quaint streets of Bend. Join me, won't you?<br /><br />Until then-<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-32077965279441008932009-09-15T09:03:00.001-07:002009-09-17T18:57:27.812-07:00Bookish Meanderings in the Land of the Tattooed (and pierced)The morning came late and I was happy to have the extra hour with the time change (do we ever get those hours back?). After writing a little while I headed out into the streets. Not having a car I was relegated to public transportation which, in Portland, means the superb light rail system know as The MAX (Metropolitan Area Express).<br /><br />Before the short ride over the Willamette river into town, I stopped by a local favorite for breakfast: <a href="http://miloscitycafe.com/default.aspx">Milo's City Cafe</a> near the Lloyd Center Mall. They have a great selection of unique breakfast dishes to compliment tried and true favorites, and I couldn't help but have one of their tasty mimosas to give breakfast a little kick in the pants. The place is awesome and I ended up eating breakfast there every day I was in Portland. Usually I shoot for more diversity, but sometimes you just can't argue with success.<br /><br />The Max stop was a short walk from Milo's, so after a great meal and 3 or 5 cups of excellent coffee to counterbalance the mimosa, I started off in that direction. Due to the proximity of the city, the MAX is free to downtown Portland from the Lloyd Center area, which I found extremely commuter friendly. The clean, smooth riding trains offer ample seats and have a unique bike rack setup inside each of the doors to accommodate the many two wheel rider-commuters.<br /><br />Speaking of which, Portland must be the bike riding capital of the Universe. There are as many bicycles clogging the main arteries during rush hour as there are cars. Traffic laws in the state give these commuting pedalers the right of way, which makes for some interesting altercations and no small bit of occasional controversy. These indulgent laws have made some cyclists prone to scoff at laws not so indulgent (like stop signs and traffic lights), so the cops have cracked down. I saw three separate bicyclists "pulled over" by police cars throughout my first day in Portland, a sight I have <span style="font-style: italic;">never </span>seen even once in NYC or Philly on any occasion.<br /><br />The MAX train pulled up just as I was approaching the stop. I jumped aboard to enjoy the view of downtown as we crossed the river into Portland. Portland is a medium size city with a distinctly small city feel. Downtown sits along the western banks of the Willamette River and is backed by the verdant hills of Washington and Forest Parks.<br /><br />Washington Park, on the hills above the west side of town, is home to the Oregon Zoo, the Portland Japanese Garden and the famed International Rose Test Garden. This beautifully tiered garden offers excellent views above the city looking east to Mt. Hood and (on a clear day) north to Mt. St. Helen's and is one of the main reasons why Portland is often referred to as <span style="font-style: italic;">The City of Roses</span>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClxJiTQXOqh3rkQmFqAWb-hZtlxdsSP0A1_3AAQ2e43dhOvuWeRiH0bb7XF3kb0WW-lXUQKGfjyxxLeU8-qXnv4fQOJZRYR_lCQ4Eyq-Txf6d-zyD7zUftX9IQVX9yWeVPT41XyjdMrMa/s1600-h/Downtown+Portland+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiClxJiTQXOqh3rkQmFqAWb-hZtlxdsSP0A1_3AAQ2e43dhOvuWeRiH0bb7XF3kb0WW-lXUQKGfjyxxLeU8-qXnv4fQOJZRYR_lCQ4Eyq-Txf6d-zyD7zUftX9IQVX9yWeVPT41XyjdMrMa/s320/Downtown+Portland+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382609883604569794" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGksCR_sUh-pHrY0F77r951etL83PEMi3vABsp15gz6Fp5T16jjubY08_a9ZN5b8Aj2fWt33SjkarDkGucPBAWEHKrM_lftPOBIq79hPLxis54HqfB9LN2wU7H6mVMg7UzK0FYJOqu3bg4/s1600-h/Cameron's+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGksCR_sUh-pHrY0F77r951etL83PEMi3vABsp15gz6Fp5T16jjubY08_a9ZN5b8Aj2fWt33SjkarDkGucPBAWEHKrM_lftPOBIq79hPLxis54HqfB9LN2wU7H6mVMg7UzK0FYJOqu3bg4/s320/Cameron's+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382609865108580290" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Downtown Portland. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: Cameron's Books</span></span><br /><br />My first stop was the funky and recently (and perhaps not fully) gentrified area in the low numbered streets near the river south of the Burnside Bridge. Here I stopped in to visit <a href="http://www.cameronsbooks.com/">Cameron's Books and Magazines</a>, claimed as <span style="font-style: italic;">"Portland's oldest used bookstore"</span>. This distinctly old school used bookstore has been open since the late 1920's. Current owner Jeff Frase been running the show for the last 20 years or so.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2pBKN_AxbcnpYXYmvXbN8NZZGQ7MVxZai81yDslTT2DiLbKVjO8Qu83iRgp5yVD63S00CQVq_wwZaPHPyDzXzmHqAPg0oVln4y-HuCxj_LAi2WTAzb8eHlKwM44oBXAF5jsFDQdZaL3L/s1600-h/Jeff+Cameron%27s+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2pBKN_AxbcnpYXYmvXbN8NZZGQ7MVxZai81yDslTT2DiLbKVjO8Qu83iRgp5yVD63S00CQVq_wwZaPHPyDzXzmHqAPg0oVln4y-HuCxj_LAi2WTAzb8eHlKwM44oBXAF5jsFDQdZaL3L/s320/Jeff+Cameron%27s+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382609890704324802" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFXole8mhTS5-ycCkBJ291gzj1ctiJUovAE9z4_Wi-elYe4L0lsJJEsGAZ6zkWtUiD84tIJ81S3a093QEhOyZvWEnR86QbJaTnWJO7FMMxSh8By1Y1QHxdGZ0vk1iwFcZm3-lrTWphg5Y/s1600-h/Cameron's+Int+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 294px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSFXole8mhTS5-ycCkBJ291gzj1ctiJUovAE9z4_Wi-elYe4L0lsJJEsGAZ6zkWtUiD84tIJ81S3a093QEhOyZvWEnR86QbJaTnWJO7FMMxSh8By1Y1QHxdGZ0vk1iwFcZm3-lrTWphg5Y/s320/Cameron's+Int+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382609871637645394" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Jeff Frase, owner of Cameron's Books. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: Cameron's interior</span></span><br /><br />The store has an interesting selection/conglomeration of books, magazines and ephemera that, while perhaps more than gently used, offer a diverse range of titles you don't often see. Even more interesting are the magazine collections, filed by date, stashed away from public view in the back room. These include complete collections of Life Magazine, The New Yorker, Playboy, Look, Post, Time, Newsweek, and many magazines I've barely even heard of. It's a pretty cool collection and the store still buys "good" books and magazines from customers each and every day.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj026rboSEao-l1UttDt-2yR4f_hFmcQL45MKKwVO_TQw0YlRPTBwSgUsR5jLJ3UrU0f5TW0Gd9cQIHmnMn6OZEPuKuOPDfajIETKwJRKUj7CORyfbcszNcfHP26hHu4XuSl-OPy8eX7QIr/s1600-h/Cameron's+Mags+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj026rboSEao-l1UttDt-2yR4f_hFmcQL45MKKwVO_TQw0YlRPTBwSgUsR5jLJ3UrU0f5TW0Gd9cQIHmnMn6OZEPuKuOPDfajIETKwJRKUj7CORyfbcszNcfHP26hHu4XuSl-OPy8eX7QIr/s320/Cameron's+Mags+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382609876580947490" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Cameron's magazine collection; away from public view.</span></span><br /><br />Directly across the street from Cameron's is one of my favorite stops for slow cooked food in Portland: <a href="http://www.mothersbistro.com/">Mother's Bistro & Bar</a>. Although it hadn't been <span style="font-style: italic;">that </span>long since breakfast, I couldn't resist a bowl of Belle's Chicken Noodle soup and an perfectly chilled pint of Deschutes Mirror Pond Pale Ale. Ah, Portland, city of superlative food and beer.<br /><br />Moving on <span style="font-style: italic;">a pied</span>, I made my way west towards the center of town. Of course, when one speaks of Portland and books, the first name to come to mind is Powell's City of Books. But hold yer horses there pardner. While Powell's is a nationally recognized landmark bookstore, it is just one of many cool alternatives for used and indie books in this most left-leaning of locales. This is made abundantly clear when you peruse the helpful Portland Area Booksellers Directory for new, used and out-of-print books published by the <a href="http://www.pauba.org/">Portland Area Used Booksellers Association</a> (PAUBA).<br /><br />Armed with their handy printed pamphlet of purveyors of printed prose I was headed up to my second stop on the list: Daedelus Books. Walking around Portland is trip in and of itself. While tattoos and piercings are common in any major US city, the sheer degree of decorated humanity is on a much grander scale here.<br /><br />Heading west on West Burnside towards Nob Hill, I couldn't help but wonder if the spiderweb tattooed across one young gentleman's multi-pierced face would hamper his efforts at gainful employment as an account executive, or if the full neck, breast and sleeve tattoo covering the upper half of one young lady's torso might frighten her grandchildren when she takes them to the pool 40 years from now. One can only speculate.<br /><br />I climbed the hill and waded into the beautiful, tree-lined streets of Nob Hill. Most of the mansions in this pricey Alphabet Historic District have been converted over to apartments. Of those remaining, a few have been restored to their original early 20th century beauty (chah-ching!) with a few remaining untouched like homages to Sunset Boulevard (the movie, not the street).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4q8XjCYYV5xnm4grt8RHtt_D7yL9facsw0bY-hIAP8QPbrMWaJBYPHBtKmGytQ9N2gc1wU4gbdf3YdRTvScmKVzXlFrlUoHlBocGM-0BZ3XbLz4Pao9ICmAWLKzyaOxlC7yvKXCnITEhI/s1600-h/Daedalus+front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4q8XjCYYV5xnm4grt8RHtt_D7yL9facsw0bY-hIAP8QPbrMWaJBYPHBtKmGytQ9N2gc1wU4gbdf3YdRTvScmKVzXlFrlUoHlBocGM-0BZ3XbLz4Pao9ICmAWLKzyaOxlC7yvKXCnITEhI/s320/Daedalus+front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611885263174098" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ103fPszj-gI0eKiHCHLip1cAl07QdWNddFiIotAqeh3-0_1y0mIn5NxvXtY7N_iOgnJwQF_mno1nzVB8Am9YGFNH5svpWkY2D-WaBHqJ9lLmPKYLi0e5sc5LBdoyzPw2BJY9tYCw9kcX/s1600-h/Daedalus+Counter+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 269px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ103fPszj-gI0eKiHCHLip1cAl07QdWNddFiIotAqeh3-0_1y0mIn5NxvXtY7N_iOgnJwQF_mno1nzVB8Am9YGFNH5svpWkY2D-WaBHqJ9lLmPKYLi0e5sc5LBdoyzPw2BJY9tYCw9kcX/s320/Daedalus+Counter+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611906742679698" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Daedalus Books. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right:</span> Daedalus counter.</span></span><br /><br />Daedalus Books is stashed away a couple of blocks north of W. Burnside at 20th and N.W. Flanders. Portland native Matt Groenig based many of the names of his <span style="font-style: italic;">Simpsons</span> characters on street names in this district (Ned <span style="font-style: italic;">Flanders</span>, the bully <span style="font-style: italic;">Kearny</span>, Reverend <span style="font-style: italic;">Lovejoy</span>, Mayor <span style="font-style: italic;">Quimby</span>) and Deadalus Books offers a great little oasis of reading amidst the trendy high end boutiques and fine dining establishments in the area.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfk4pliJ-uzWo6g7do887L0Ql92K9Cwzo3N3K8BxtTAZDF1TuRCjaOwaf0a0Ik1qpYLFlFwj1MJV80XGDvZHURw3PHwQiSvcsqC3EPHHJUOrCqXP-2oYBtv2AxE9s2ifTmIg4K3DMPbnvM/s1600-h/Daedalus+Sign+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfk4pliJ-uzWo6g7do887L0Ql92K9Cwzo3N3K8BxtTAZDF1TuRCjaOwaf0a0Ik1qpYLFlFwj1MJV80XGDvZHURw3PHwQiSvcsqC3EPHHJUOrCqXP-2oYBtv2AxE9s2ifTmIg4K3DMPbnvM/s320/Daedalus+Sign+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611887826475810" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNUSJcjEqR5fdrL9Nd-Fgs85_wYFoCmht6lja-DFDD8Lbyj1ttFyxSWWDWu9sBoWPFKurALhA5aMwdq51XnP9h0UoQeZq40EnXCtxnONZNzJ0tyJQdAUMbuj3cd_qAnOzYGWiQQObX9H1n/s1600-h/Daedalus+Warehouse+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNUSJcjEqR5fdrL9Nd-Fgs85_wYFoCmht6lja-DFDD8Lbyj1ttFyxSWWDWu9sBoWPFKurALhA5aMwdq51XnP9h0UoQeZq40EnXCtxnONZNzJ0tyJQdAUMbuj3cd_qAnOzYGWiQQObX9H1n/s320/Daedalus+Warehouse+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611897456149618" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Daedalus Books. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: Daedalus Internet warehouse.</span></span><br /><br />The store has a great selection of academic books, philosophy, history, art and Jewish studies with their very own Internet warehouse (which is even larger than the store itself) in back. They offer new and used books and true to their listing, pay the highest prices for quality used books. It's a pretty cool setup and great aesthetics to match.<br /><br />After perusing around Daedalus for a while, I headed back down the hill, stopping off for a quick lunch of enchiladas and a margarita (or two) at the nearby Mazatlan Mexican Restaurant. It hit the spot. Crossing back down W. Burnside I passed longingly in front of Powell's, then headed catty-corner a block further down to my next stop: CounterMedia.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipSnA3QXU7kNrB-9fbnpB4b2vJNs53DP5Yjwq1pXhbRjrND_qBfkKkcvZ2zEcmOJ8dgUCxCnBBIIvHV5mwbl8OXSglMVb2Tqw2he0QgNNIV9P2SdrL9IIVM2_ahm8QXtkCskTgrB3GlDmT/s1600-h/Counter+Med+Front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipSnA3QXU7kNrB-9fbnpB4b2vJNs53DP5Yjwq1pXhbRjrND_qBfkKkcvZ2zEcmOJ8dgUCxCnBBIIvHV5mwbl8OXSglMVb2Tqw2he0QgNNIV9P2SdrL9IIVM2_ahm8QXtkCskTgrB3GlDmT/s320/Counter+Med+Front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611106524806066" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3qSNthR0ge4MU5KHER2JZO6oP8nLLvLRsB6sE2Y-9AVIRgQgOiZCUh69_vEan7E5Vm7QXr1VGnEBkeyLbWwst10_v6hZw63woraCYc2-FXKLEu4k-hH_v6fv2iE9GWgpubRshBEApAnJ/s1600-h/CounterMed+UComics+Rm+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 284px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX3qSNthR0ge4MU5KHER2JZO6oP8nLLvLRsB6sE2Y-9AVIRgQgOiZCUh69_vEan7E5Vm7QXr1VGnEBkeyLbWwst10_v6hZw63woraCYc2-FXKLEu4k-hH_v6fv2iE9GWgpubRshBEApAnJ/s320/CounterMed+UComics+Rm+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611161304237298" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left:</span> CounterMedia. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: CounterMedia underground comics.</span></span><br /><br />So, you may ask, how does a roughly 1,800 square foot new and used indie bookstore thrive for over 13 years just a block away from Powell's? Simple: by having "<span style="font-style: italic;">the Northwest's largest selection of erotica, underground comics and books on fringe culture</span>", both new and vintage. This is no ordinary bookstore, mind you. Owner and proprietor Charles Boucher said the store carries every erotica title currently in print. Looking around at the vast and varied selection, I was inclined to agree.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHCyLTDP17EZmlP5w7zBwwTF96b0uQokHulpSbwHMXeJLYU4elTsBLUN9eNHhfqRAD4JxCGnvnREXyR_Wn6sytC95CR1mo18b10mmW3VtD4aaF2XxT3c3EJcOzWC8mt5yOsKDrREwe-fv/s1600-h/CounterMed+Erotica+Rm2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimHCyLTDP17EZmlP5w7zBwwTF96b0uQokHulpSbwHMXeJLYU4elTsBLUN9eNHhfqRAD4JxCGnvnREXyR_Wn6sytC95CR1mo18b10mmW3VtD4aaF2XxT3c3EJcOzWC8mt5yOsKDrREwe-fv/s320/CounterMed+Erotica+Rm2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611176728853826" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfbAbIVX0w85ajTq54lfJUqZh2c-ImeCcS2Az4AJHPO9UAKkDzV9g9ArlH6TNsMgusLWIZ8wZgmEzAsvIBGoEAO_7lxffQm-sxig8MfW5_1p7chQsoV_0pcFcqsg8hZxEc3lqG204p9VN/s1600-h/CounterMed+Erotica+Rm+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXfbAbIVX0w85ajTq54lfJUqZh2c-ImeCcS2Az4AJHPO9UAKkDzV9g9ArlH6TNsMgusLWIZ8wZgmEzAsvIBGoEAO_7lxffQm-sxig8MfW5_1p7chQsoV_0pcFcqsg8hZxEc3lqG204p9VN/s320/CounterMed+Erotica+Rm+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382611144767472130" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: two views of the CounterMedia erotica room.</span></span><br /><br />The underground comics and recent erotica were great, but for my money, nothing beat the vast collection of vintage erotica paperbacks. These lurid treatises of early porn, many dating from the 1940's to the 1960's, offered tantalizing tidbits covering everything from the depraved sexual habits of the lower, middle and upper classes to unseemly incidents involving interactions among members of the same family, with plenty of grainy photos and shocking illustrations to go along.<br /><br />It was an eye-opening experience to say the least. Feeling a little flustered and flushed, I headed next door to Crowsenberg's Half and Half to re-center with a coffee and pastry before heading down one more door to <a href="http://www.readingfrenzy.com/">Reading Frenzy</a>, yet another small indie just two doors down from CounterMedia and one block down from Powell's.<br /><br />This unique little gem of a bookstore is celebrating its 15th anniversary as an "Independent Press Emporium". Tiny at 650 square feet, Reading Frenzy is still four times larger that it was when it opened back in 1994. With a great selection of (new) small and independent press titles and a whole lot of kitsch, it's easy to see how this great little store has managed to flourish in the shadow of Powell's. It provides the perfect coda to a fun day of bookish meanderings.<br /><br />Heading back on the MAX with the teaming hordes of rush hour commuters and bicyclists, I was able to marvel yet again at the sheer number of decorative embellishments applied to various body parts of the esteemed citizenry. Arriving back at my host's establishment, we headed off to a superb six course prix-fixe meal at one of Portland's most talked about restaurants: <a href="http://www.beastpdx.com/info.html">Beast</a>.<br /><br />As the name implies, this unique, tiny and superb haute cuisine establishment is frank in their appreciation of meat. An interesting premise to say the least here in the capital of vegan vegetarianism.<br /><br />There are two seatings for dinner Wednesday through Saturday evening, with a four-course prix-fixe brunch on Sunday. We selected the six-course wine pairing option to go along with our meal (substitutions respectfully declined) and proceeded to thoroughly enjoy ourselves. Each course was served with an introduction and overview, outlining the local source for every delectable item served. It made for quite an enjoyable evening, at a prix-fixe price that puts many lesser restaurants to shame.<br /><br />Bleary-eyed with food and drink we headed back home for a night cap before turning in. Tomorrow is reserved for Powell's and after that, it's off to Bend, Oregon for a few days of hiking and of course, perusing the local bookstore scene. Join me won't you!<br /><br />Until then-<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-40472213967199421312009-09-06T08:09:00.001-07:002009-09-08T08:19:21.728-07:00Descent into Portland<span style="font-weight: bold;">The sun slipped below the horizon as we began our descent, the sky casting a bright blue glow over the darkening world below.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1KEQ-0SaPVg_B1zaCJS3xwOi1HGAkSDjXveIpXnvsHt5CeJ3KZaSf78ikFkDic7Pz95C1V1hbpslDjvsiYttOGyFOpRuTJoiyznFq89bSE-sqBvFSbKq6AD5cP-u7Y_CugU-_ffNQum0/s1600-h/Mount+Jefferson+Bird%27s+Eye+View+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 598px; height: 255px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-1KEQ-0SaPVg_B1zaCJS3xwOi1HGAkSDjXveIpXnvsHt5CeJ3KZaSf78ikFkDic7Pz95C1V1hbpslDjvsiYttOGyFOpRuTJoiyznFq89bSE-sqBvFSbKq6AD5cP-u7Y_CugU-_ffNQum0/s320/Mount+Jefferson+Bird%27s+Eye+View+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379111519169359538" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;"> Bird's eye view of Mt. Jefferson, </span>sister volcano to Mt. Hood, 45 miles to the south. Taken from above Timberline Lodge on Mt. Hood during a Booktraveler visit to Portland summer of 2008.</span><br /><br />Descending into Portland offers some of the most breathtaking vistas in the country. From the right side of the plane you get spectacular views of the mighty Columbia River Gorge framed by the intermittent high volcanic peaks of the Washington Cascades.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxQQXM5vGY_YKa0IxFULIHB45Yg34lBJ3ITVJQVNnkLlX1vt8mpq1txtSWm_njSHFx8YOqZxesCkBUh9sdlIxhFefw3mWgDXF24_s_EipMe76iFKh7a_r9c76FNDOqlhwJJYLib0CXyfc/s1600-h/Columbia+River+Gorge+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 593px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqxQQXM5vGY_YKa0IxFULIHB45Yg34lBJ3ITVJQVNnkLlX1vt8mpq1txtSWm_njSHFx8YOqZxesCkBUh9sdlIxhFefw3mWgDXF24_s_EipMe76iFKh7a_r9c76FNDOqlhwJJYLib0CXyfc/s320/Columbia+River+Gorge+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379111516288388370" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Columbia River Gorge </span>from the Washington State side looking east. Also taken in 2008.</span></span><br /><br />First to come in to view is the massive Mt. Adams, second highest peak in the Cascade Range at a glacier encrusted 12,307 feet. Next, the infamous Mt. St. Helens, at 8,366 feet, 1,311 feet lower than it stood prior to its eruption in 1980, the deadliest (57 killed or missing) and most economically destructive volcanic event in U.S. history. Finally, another 50 miles to the north, you can just make out the imposing humpback outline of Mt. Rainier, the regions tallest, most famous and most photographed volcanic giant at 14,411 feet.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMRp-mC8Oo8HhQRBg9dWm4eDz_B9kQe4NuclM0txiJ75RFbdPDos2kHH-Ds8BV-nVRAPSck7V-VQCZOaQjX1NwRcG7SvlDFGy38xxAUJkabJhmZB3cIEU2MOZ9mLEIU2PPkHf70EPTHPBY/s1600-h/Mount+Hood+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 613px; height: 377px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMRp-mC8Oo8HhQRBg9dWm4eDz_B9kQe4NuclM0txiJ75RFbdPDos2kHH-Ds8BV-nVRAPSck7V-VQCZOaQjX1NwRcG7SvlDFGy38xxAUJkabJhmZB3cIEU2MOZ9mLEIU2PPkHf70EPTHPBY/s320/Mount+Hood+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5379111507501046274" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Mount Hood</span>, viewed from the Warm Springs Indian Reservation, heading east on highway 26. Summer, 2008.</span><br /><br />I was on the left side of the plane this evening however, and that means peering down through the darkening sky at a the single most amazingly beautiful and prominent feature of the northern Oregon landscape: Mt. Hood. This craggy, snow covered peak rises 11,249 feet above sea level, making it Oregon's tallest.<br /><br />As the plane veers down on its final approach to Portland International Airport, the mountain rises to fill the entire southern skyline, it's rocky peak looking close enough to touch as the plane passes over the glacier-encrusted expanse. With no other mountains of similar magnitude nearby, Mt. Hood stands alone, towering high above the lush green Cascades, an awe-inspiring sentinel to the immense and timeless forces of nature.<br /><br />It had been a late winter season in the northwest, a point made abundantly clear by the heavy late summer snow pack still blanketing the higher reaches of the peak. This "most climbed" of Oregonian mountains is attempted by over 10,000 people a year, so I guess it's no surprise that 130 people have met their untimely end amid its lofty, snow covered crevasses and crags.<br /><br />I've been to the northwest three times and have always wanted to climb this alluring peak. It would have to wait yet again, as plans called for only one mountain ascent this stage of the trip, and that was up the 10,363 foot South Sister near Bend, Oregon. But first things first.<br /><br />After landing, my Portland host steered us to an astoundingly good Spanish-themed "Tapas" restaurant in the historic northeast end of town with the apropos name of <a href="http://www.torobravopdx.com/">Toro Bravo</a> or Fighting Bull. Their superb menu and tremendous drink selection made it an evening well worth remembering. I can't recommend this place enough if you find yourself in Portland in search of a good meal after a long day, or on any other day for that matter.<br /><br />Stuffed and somewhat more than mildly inebriated, I turned in for the night at my host's cozy abode, thinking over the long and eventful day which started in the high mountain valley of Buena Vista, Colorado. Tomorrow I would head in to town via the nearby Broadway Bridge. My meanderings will lead me to the many used and indie bookstores of Portland including, of course, the inimitable Powell's "City of Books" which dominates an entire city block of the nearby Pearl District.<br /><br />But for now - full, tired and happy, I vanquish myself to the world of dreams, visions of great literary travels coursing through synapses. Good night!<br /><br />Next post: Bookish Meanderings through the Tattooed Land of the Politically Correct. Join me won't you?<br /><br />Until then-<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-64861494700300428432009-09-01T05:04:00.000-07:002009-09-02T18:17:44.263-07:00Morning of Buena Vistas, afternoons of flight.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5Xl9VJLKaXLcVqJvzrjflZD5uMuUZ1KqGB1bvh_qPFwYjaGo0hgo4kp52IWDsr32fL0tX1azpXP3qYRCUYpwtYjPdXpTwAkUHk7iMV4AiTHsCRzoEr7-cPxFYHSL1FpEoFjPC5fkk41u/s1600-h/Topaz+Lodge+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 515px; height: 304px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP5Xl9VJLKaXLcVqJvzrjflZD5uMuUZ1KqGB1bvh_qPFwYjaGo0hgo4kp52IWDsr32fL0tX1azpXP3qYRCUYpwtYjPdXpTwAkUHk7iMV4AiTHsCRzoEr7-cPxFYHSL1FpEoFjPC5fkk41u/s320/Topaz+Lodge+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376920394886065794" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: The Topaz Lodge. Scenic accommodations in Buena Vista, CO.</span></span><br /><br />OK, so I could hear the people talking until 2:00am in the next room and the highway was just a few feet from my room. Nonetheless, I still had a refreshing night's sleep at the Topaz Lodge and was rarin' to go...<span style="font-style: italic;">EAT </span>that is.<br /><br />While checking in the night before I had asked the hotel owner his recommendation for a hearty, American breakfast. He indicated that Jan's, just down the street, was the call. So, after the heaving of luggage into the land yacht, I jumped on the highway for a couple of blocks and headed straight to the afore mentioned home of the Buena Vista's best breakfast.<br /><br />Buena Vista lies in a scenic high mountain valley that runs north-south below the Collegiate Peaks of the Sawatch Range. These peaks, along with the beautiful Arkansas River which flows through the broad, scrub pine valley, makes this region a prime destination for year round outdoors activity.<br /><br />The Collegiate Range Peaks of Mt. Harvard, Mt. Yale, Mt. Columbia and Mount Princeton tower majestically over the valley to the west. Combined with nearby Mt. Elbert, La Plata Peak, Mt. Antero, Mt. Massive and others, over 15 of Colorado's 52 14'ers are easily accessible from this pristine base, making it a backpacking and climber's paradise.<br /><br />If that weren't enough, the roiling Arkansas river offers world-class rafting, kayaking and fly fishing, the large elk that populate the area make it a hunter's paradise, and the nearby passes are world-renowned snowmobiling destinations during the long winter months. Combine this with a climate that's noticeably warmer than the surrounding mountains in winter (less freezing would be more appropriate) and you have a year round playground that's within easy reach of the Denver-Colorado Springs metroplex. That said, Buena Vista is still remarkably quaint, extremely western, and relatively free of the runaway development that afflicts other popular mountain destinations. It also has a unique high desert small resort feel that I really like.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXOojO0E86DblYwL05LUfaMseN6dynkguySradkcvg0YddBbabjaDW5YZTCcavk4lqOaFGFmZSMVTEZlGYchqQpOVAohT8oynspYd02niAgRL35QbQyObRwhQPoeg0SbRWntx8eYnMN3W/s1600-h/Jan's+Buena+Vista+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXOojO0E86DblYwL05LUfaMseN6dynkguySradkcvg0YddBbabjaDW5YZTCcavk4lqOaFGFmZSMVTEZlGYchqQpOVAohT8oynspYd02niAgRL35QbQyObRwhQPoeg0SbRWntx8eYnMN3W/s320/Jan's+Buena+Vista+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376920403682587682" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnlyJkUMdB-xQh-wU7eLrkXa6v6selbXoiyeljWhjPnxebaLZLx6ZmLTrVqRIt2NgZHXtF0JJ0RwO4ct7XarOmwWowmTdXMGVK5QwCoch0USWGAEQ04SLhU9smPSf-mrYbHQAOa3ClEC0n/s1600-h/The+Collegiate+Peaks,+Buena+Vista+CO+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnlyJkUMdB-xQh-wU7eLrkXa6v6selbXoiyeljWhjPnxebaLZLx6ZmLTrVqRIt2NgZHXtF0JJ0RwO4ct7XarOmwWowmTdXMGVK5QwCoch0USWGAEQ04SLhU9smPSf-mrYbHQAOa3ClEC0n/s320/The+Collegiate+Peaks,+Buena+Vista+CO+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376921928038778834" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Jan's Family Restaurant and Lounge. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: Collegiate Peaks, Buena Vista, CO.</span><br /><br />Stepping into Jan's was like stepping back 30 years in time. The popular dining room looked like it was plucked straight from the 1960's (or perhaps unchanged since). Trophy heads of various hoofed, horned and antlered quadrupeds looked down from walls, filled in between with vintage photos and posters of local hunters, sports enthusiasts and pastimes.<br /><br />When I saw two county sheriffs enjoying a bawdy laugh with a somewhat dentally-challenged waitress, I knew I was in the right place for a great breakfast. I wasn't disappointed. After a huge meal of scrambled eggs, short stack of pancakes, grits, patty sausage, wheat toast, coffee, and an orange juice, I was relatively sure that I could forgo further sustenance until I reached the airport in Denver late this afternoon.<br /><br />Leaving Jan's I took a quick drive through the charmingly antique "downtown" to the town park that runs along the Arkansas River. I stood above the river in the crystal clear morning sun and watched as several kayaks and a couple of 7-person rafts whizzed by below the scenic wood and steel pedestrian bridge.<br /><br />As I watched, a fly fisherman just below the bridge landed what looked to be a nine-inch rainbow trout that glistened in the morning sun, and turning to return to the car I was stunned by the panoramic beauty of the majestic Collegiate Peaks thrusting boldly into the sky across the western horizon. Time was my enemy and my plane for Portland left at 6PM with or without me, but I still found it hard to leave this unique mountain paradise.<br /><br />I left Buena Vista a little behind schedule. Turning east on highway 24, I headed toward Colorado Springs. Plans had originally called for a trip through the scenic alpine tourist town of Manitou Springs at the base of Pikes Peak, a ride up said mountain on the famed cog train, followed by a drive through the wondrous red rock promontories of Garden of the Gods. All this before hitting some great bookstores in Colorado Springs and making it back to the Denver airport 70 miles to the north by 4PM to return my rental car. Something had to give.<br /><br />I traveled up an over 9,300 foot Trout Pass and headed east across the scenic high grassy plains of South Park, yes, the very same South Park that lends it's name to the animated series (although I'm not quite sure why). From there it was up and over the beautiful Wilkerson Pass with its unparalleled views of the 14'ers stretched across the western sky, then down through Woodland Park to the town of Manitou Springs.<br /><br />This beautiful and historic little town is the gateway to Pikes Peak. From there you can take the cog railway to the top or ascend via the nearby Pikes Peak Scenic highway (toll). The town was founded in the early 1900's as a health destination for people suffering from tuberculosis. It was thought the clean mountain air, combined with waters from the 24 or so natural mountain springs would provide therapeutic treatment. Ah, the good old days. Well at least you could die in comfort enjoying the beauty of the surrounding valley and Pikes Peak.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOB7OZJ51n1TnfuJL5j7E0nqfirX5HzWu8gEVU6oTHWsepAewHkd7Jl5Oyfzbbb3gR7XZhuxo9G2VsBa2umCTHvyER3pwMSPOsklGDgy5nSNQgxoqn8MWJs4t2R1-NrN3yayFl7H6cE5EX/s1600-h/Manitou+Springs+8-09+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 303px; height: 189px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOB7OZJ51n1TnfuJL5j7E0nqfirX5HzWu8gEVU6oTHWsepAewHkd7Jl5Oyfzbbb3gR7XZhuxo9G2VsBa2umCTHvyER3pwMSPOsklGDgy5nSNQgxoqn8MWJs4t2R1-NrN3yayFl7H6cE5EX/s320/Manitou+Springs+8-09+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376920410222105394" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhasOaOldxl8dFrJMr4AsaEVkGVGhu5BT9TYRUnbgOlahVCzcGX5oFFybYeeO4HcfG9NXYm0SiaO-ozaOhbWBN2pkwB76EPVxMLLZT70__q5kWgLY0diafJm3nWFPv2XBtu25P2QVzxCfL9/s1600-h/Pikes+Peak+from+Garden+of+the+Gods.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 190px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhasOaOldxl8dFrJMr4AsaEVkGVGhu5BT9TYRUnbgOlahVCzcGX5oFFybYeeO4HcfG9NXYm0SiaO-ozaOhbWBN2pkwB76EPVxMLLZT70__q5kWgLY0diafJm3nWFPv2XBtu25P2QVzxCfL9/s320/Pikes+Peak+from+Garden+of+the+Gods.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376920419075900754" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Manitou Springs, CO. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: Pikes Peak from Garden of the Gods</span></span><br /><br />I had been to Manitou Springs in my youth and it hadn't changes much. It's still a great, mildly-but-not-too crowded tourist destination with lots to see and do (Cave of the Winds, Garden of the Gods, Pikes Peak, "Indian" Cliff Dwellings, etc., etc., etc.). The historic buildings have been well preserved and the building codes are such that it truly has retained a unique and inviting charm. Well done planning commission!<br /><br />I took a quick spin through town then headed up for a meander through the twisting, turning roads of Garden of the Gods on the northeast side of town. This scenic little park is like Arches National Park in miniature, with lots of unique and beautiful formations jutting out from the scrubby pines.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5lPxOLASl-viWS4JKjcj3fS5Po05iVrNpz5eIIxVRHrafEyt5ewVQuzHz3GrUVbwrtooOwqy75LR7_ilK3udl8riS_LOPJwncjJE-HtExUxHjFjoPD9DC-gamPs6reO0cmqHub6UnhWyP/s1600-h/Garden+of+the+Gods+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5lPxOLASl-viWS4JKjcj3fS5Po05iVrNpz5eIIxVRHrafEyt5ewVQuzHz3GrUVbwrtooOwqy75LR7_ilK3udl8riS_LOPJwncjJE-HtExUxHjFjoPD9DC-gamPs6reO0cmqHub6UnhWyP/s320/Garden+of+the+Gods+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376927345123314642" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56hB_4wcRZbKcAJSuCMI7Fp6hZsWxBRKI8Z1BDVs6B8nmJXOXQ_SakAjEpa___WHUPf5EkU9wU4WgfpB1w-8SvArP_gra2FWp34pq2Dsr7Mc8nOXCHusiG5_ueHvp0HsxyjPNcnVxWb_J/s1600-h/Garden+of+the+Gods+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg56hB_4wcRZbKcAJSuCMI7Fp6hZsWxBRKI8Z1BDVs6B8nmJXOXQ_SakAjEpa___WHUPf5EkU9wU4WgfpB1w-8SvArP_gra2FWp34pq2Dsr7Mc8nOXCHusiG5_ueHvp0HsxyjPNcnVxWb_J/s320/Garden+of+the+Gods+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376927348544630866" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: 2 views of Garden of the Gods, Manitou Springs, CO</span></span><br /><br />It's a great place to view Pikes Peak as well as the multimillion dollar homes that lie on private property in and around the park. Unlike Manitou Springs, however, the visitor center and gift store was absolutely packed with screaming, ice cream eating, souvenir buying throngs of sweaty visitors, rubbing just a little veneer off this otherwise pleasurable experience. October would probably be a better time to visit. Moving right along, I jumped back to 24 and headed into the beautiful and semi-gentrified heart of downtown Colorado Springs.<br /><br />Colorado Springs started out as a resort town centered on the springs at nearby Manitou Springs. Pikes Peak, the ubiquitous, towering presence over the city, is the closest 14,ooo foot peak to the front range and plains and the most accessible, making it a prime destination in its own right.<br /><br />The city of Colorado Springs is on many "best of" lists. It hosts the Air Force Academy, and most interestingly, under the hollowed out-Cheyenne Mountain looming just southwest over town: NORAD, the North American Aerospace Defence Command, the cold war era defender against nuclear attack popularized in countless movies and spy novels. Needless to say, in the unfortunate event of nuclear war, it would be a great place to make sure you get vaporized in the first wave.<br /><br />Although larger in area than Denver, Colorado Springs has a very manageable population of just over 300,000. This, combined with the mountain resort location gives it a truly intimate feel. The downtown area while small, is scenic and semi-gentrified, creating an interesting juxtaposition of old and new, conservative and contemporary, indigent and prosperous. The "action" is centered along active Tejon St., where I stopped in to take a turn around some of the local purveyors of new and used books.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLPIIFw3MuZkOKIeBEa7YOXBZOX50VoN7T6mretOuqNjAKmUg3_3A02zc3cj_BnDJtOJJOOY6wNrzr7WgLUPg-cfjezt0JClc-9eeLlEPobh__Up8esQzeSXLj6mjesCx4lGPqyYkMmot/s1600-h/Poor+Richards+Books+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPLPIIFw3MuZkOKIeBEa7YOXBZOX50VoN7T6mretOuqNjAKmUg3_3A02zc3cj_BnDJtOJJOOY6wNrzr7WgLUPg-cfjezt0JClc-9eeLlEPobh__Up8esQzeSXLj6mjesCx4lGPqyYkMmot/s320/Poor+Richards+Books+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376926291306579714" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcZ1asJYOyF2Pzc1wp_nPYiiNdxE66YGCinEaQ-ySOZ78f-9vpP1HJL1IzcjYyNUKcn8ktze26INAh9CZNnY0nyw-uXb3CPjsI0Ujrgc4t0p2SD09ZJPc4TZTtZ0DYA9odzIbvpDeGdKe6/s1600-h/Poor+Richards+Books+Int+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcZ1asJYOyF2Pzc1wp_nPYiiNdxE66YGCinEaQ-ySOZ78f-9vpP1HJL1IzcjYyNUKcn8ktze26INAh9CZNnY0nyw-uXb3CPjsI0Ujrgc4t0p2SD09ZJPc4TZTtZ0DYA9odzIbvpDeGdKe6/s320/Poor+Richards+Books+Int+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376926303875162274" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Poor Richard's Discount Bookstore inside and out, Colorado Springs, CO.</span></span><br /><br /><a href="http://www.poorrichards.biz/">Poor Richard's Discount Bookstore</a> at 320 N. Tejon St. is "four unique businesses under one roof": the bookstore, the restaurant, the toy store and the coffee, chocolate and wine bar. A unique staple of the community for over 32 years, this tasty melange of retail started out as Poor Richard's Discount Bookstore, then grew to include the palate pleasing Poor Richard's Restaurant, the invigorating Rico's Coffee, Chocolate and Wine Bar and the playful Little Richard's Toy Store.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qFA37gAU-s0etC740NOHEwD6NDGTgDgW-Y2rSJJOBMdFha6eVaZdzmTIxNmUaiGqr2G-Sj05PZzI9Q68PkRXGsiPM0xRUVxlJz3zDvxSw88Ki45tA6TNmxGUEqCicX81EDmixNL-6RKG/s1600-h/Poor+Richards+Books+Int+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3qFA37gAU-s0etC740NOHEwD6NDGTgDgW-Y2rSJJOBMdFha6eVaZdzmTIxNmUaiGqr2G-Sj05PZzI9Q68PkRXGsiPM0xRUVxlJz3zDvxSw88Ki45tA6TNmxGUEqCicX81EDmixNL-6RKG/s320/Poor+Richards+Books+Int+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376926298331143426" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-Ld8KIHY9wDQRWKKAXW_zSfmaZq-uiQ6SOjRINSPhLtl6ifGASwwakelCKxowpGHP_0A6MEx9KM__6CWSKh551LD3nDeKO_-NUiE4iM7euDAPOG7jARTDU62ad_VKWDRsG6Xx_ae7Cpz/s1600-h/Rico's+Coffee+Wine+and+Chocolate+Bar+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 284px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhH-Ld8KIHY9wDQRWKKAXW_zSfmaZq-uiQ6SOjRINSPhLtl6ifGASwwakelCKxowpGHP_0A6MEx9KM__6CWSKh551LD3nDeKO_-NUiE4iM7euDAPOG7jARTDU62ad_VKWDRsG6Xx_ae7Cpz/s320/Rico's+Coffee+Wine+and+Chocolate+Bar+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376926312647996994" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Poor Richard's Bookstore interior. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Rico's Coffee, Chocolate and Wine Bar next door.</span></span><br /><br />More than the sum of its parts, this lush quartet of stores serves as social center of sorts, a place to meet, eat, read and hang out with entertainment for the kids as a bonus. The bookstore buys, sells and trades used books to compliment a great choice of new and discount titles and they have an interesting selection of great alternative gifts to boot. It's a great little place to spend an afternoon or evening. If I lived in Colorado Springs...<span style="font-style: italic;">many an afternoon and evening</span>.<br /><br />Continuing up Tejon St., past a veritable cornucopia of interesting looking shops, bars, restaurants and boutiques, I stopped at Adventures in Books "An Old North End Bookshop" near the Colorado College campus at the north end of town. This latest addition to the Colorado Springs book scene was opened just over a year ago by proprietors and co-owners Bill Porter and Karen Anthony.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKiW55_hFelatCflUXG42gY643HU9-ZCh1Ll-XJ-te4fvp4ti6_vqh7SaJRrrssWCeZhUmbI8pLg6F5d7N-9DpU3Gl3mmgSStq575I8unRMZqTlLnBKUUaAthIlks7hrZPFO3jhga7ZpC/s1600-h/Adventures+in+Books+Ext+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKiW55_hFelatCflUXG42gY643HU9-ZCh1Ll-XJ-te4fvp4ti6_vqh7SaJRrrssWCeZhUmbI8pLg6F5d7N-9DpU3Gl3mmgSStq575I8unRMZqTlLnBKUUaAthIlks7hrZPFO3jhga7ZpC/s320/Adventures+in+Books+Ext+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376926323450624866" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBUtWKvBWR7q3gsbnOVM7tP2kA9JaMYc0qzZ9xZCmUWhxxcpuKSvBxCrAqi5OZGj-_zXkUiULK-CwjrXiy7K-kKeYkZRWK6erVVIPP1q6a-y9cTqOmdJJc0IUg8CpEQZau3lIN5w1ygi1/s1600-h/Adventures+in+Books+Int+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 281px; height: 211px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtBUtWKvBWR7q3gsbnOVM7tP2kA9JaMYc0qzZ9xZCmUWhxxcpuKSvBxCrAqi5OZGj-_zXkUiULK-CwjrXiy7K-kKeYkZRWK6erVVIPP1q6a-y9cTqOmdJJc0IUg8CpEQZau3lIN5w1ygi1/s320/Adventures+in+Books+Int+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376926617941316114" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Adventures in Books, inside and out. Colorado Springs, CO.</span> </span><br /><br />Adventures in Books offers a broad selection of high quality, gently used titles and as their sign indicates, they are "always buying books" and they even make house calls, just like my esteemed sponsor <a href="http://www.cathysbooks.com/">Cathy's Half Price Books</a>. It's a great little store full of interesting surprises. Between the book stores, coffee houses, and all the diverse places to eat and shop, I could have easily spent another day or three meandering on Tejon Street alone, but sadly, it was not to be. I had a plane to catch!<br /><br />It was past 3pm in the afternoon when I headed north through the scenic campus of Colorado College, then west on Unitah St. back onto I-25 to finish up this portion of the journey. Driving north on I-25 offered beautiful views of the front range and the unbelievable campus of the Air Force Academy. Boy, the government always gets the best spots: West Point, NY; Annapolis, MD; Colorado Springs, CO.; Oceanside, CA; Coronado Island, CA; I guess it helps to be...<span style="font-style: italic;">The Government</span>.<br /><br />The interstate continues north through a series beautiful buttes and rocky outcroppings near the appropriately named towns of Monument and Castle Rock, Colorado. There's a break of about 30 miles between the northern suburbs of Colorado Springs and the southern reaches of Denver, which is good. When I attended high school way back when in the Denver suburb of Arvada, there was always talk of the front range becoming one big conjoined city. Although the metropolitan areas have grown over the last 30 years, I'm happy to say that as of this writing, there's still a long way to grow.<br /><br />I made it back to the Airport a little after 4pm. After filling the rental car with gas and giving my last couple of beers to a gentleman at the gas station who reacted, I thought, with just a bit too much enthusiasm at his newly acquired largess, I changed clothes for the flight and returned the car, happy they didn't spot the rather large dent in the passenger door acquired somewhere along the ride. Denver is one of the most expensive, if not <span style="font-style: italic;">the most expensive</span> location in the US to rent a car. Rates are double what they are in the major cities of the east and west, so I figured they could afford it.<br /><br />As the plane rose over the darkening plains, I looked down on many of the areas I'd visited in during the opening days of this initial grand loop of the trip. It already seemed like ages ago. Passing over the front range as we headed west, I got one final look at Mt. Evans and the 14'ers of the Sawatch Range. Their lofty peaks, lit by the late afternoon sun, reached high into the clouds like golden citadels above the darkened valleys. It was a beautiful and fitting end to an incredible journey through the Rocky Mountain West.<br /><br />Next Post: Portland, Oregon: land of natural beauty, beer, food, political correctness and books, books, books! Join me won't you! Until then-<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">-Cheers!</span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />oBook Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-44757962828569231512009-08-25T18:12:00.000-07:002009-08-27T20:44:45.762-07:00Moab Monday<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRyc3BcoUZlrv7kSJFPIDaD65KmaR7CzNo8JrDwgGbgSo2IHreV_kqoThomHCtvXwzTojFOlY5xAhmTTiSkSelAj1Uztj0OU2-tqOD5p6jCTGAZumUGrSynWmS95HrGvweAh20ZOGmuD6Q/s1600-h/Leaving+Moab.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRyc3BcoUZlrv7kSJFPIDaD65KmaR7CzNo8JrDwgGbgSo2IHreV_kqoThomHCtvXwzTojFOlY5xAhmTTiSkSelAj1Uztj0OU2-tqOD5p6jCTGAZumUGrSynWmS95HrGvweAh20ZOGmuD6Q/s320/Leaving+Moab.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374844947445930290" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS89fGkpHkz510FPQwJEMfjc7NHG4-dsotOLJ_u-GyM1v_7p4WA77RQMdSUWuKyuQzz6USZHm2igUurDAlSTRpSLzLuEFbALkHNqbbHynHh-NE3K14vMknkQm4VKlOzSVAvYOWBgh3-csC/s1600-h/Colorado+River+Moab+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS89fGkpHkz510FPQwJEMfjc7NHG4-dsotOLJ_u-GyM1v_7p4WA77RQMdSUWuKyuQzz6USZHm2igUurDAlSTRpSLzLuEFbALkHNqbbHynHh-NE3K14vMknkQm4VKlOzSVAvYOWBgh3-csC/s320/Colorado+River+Moab+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374844954852090066" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Leaving Moab. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: Colorado River from the bike/pedestrian bridge</span></span><br /><br />Monday in Moab. The desert morning was crystal clear. The temperature was in the low 70's and even felt a little chilly with the low humidity. All I know for sure is that I have to be at Denver International Airport to board a flight to Portland, Oregon at 6pm tomorrow.<br /><br />In the meantime, Colorado springs was 422 miles away and I definitely wanted to check out some book stores there; Denver, another 71 miles north of that. I had 493 miles to ride and lots of sights to see before 4pm tomorrow. It would be a hard drivin' couple o' days.<br /><br />First things first. A hearty breakfast was in order and I had noticed what looked like the perfect spot on the way into town the day before. Luckily, with a little early morning focus, I was able to find it again.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0B6-7gmbJrIe3onAPevkXItBhd7WR3yVIYqXP1Wg433Vyzateg8YXqAiSNZySoLc_Mx-2HNTxpd5nmigUL2IepcyW-j6LWE3vpsmK3OGqSZkKZakW3-lbQdKyF56i-Wh-CASMuGmuWkk/s1600-h/Eklecticafe+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS0B6-7gmbJrIe3onAPevkXItBhd7WR3yVIYqXP1Wg433Vyzateg8YXqAiSNZySoLc_Mx-2HNTxpd5nmigUL2IepcyW-j6LWE3vpsmK3OGqSZkKZakW3-lbQdKyF56i-Wh-CASMuGmuWkk/s320/Eklecticafe+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374844964669691874" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyagC6bgNXr2RuPwBz16CGhspEi-wuhgwP0WCceMqtWSsaoqmBTi_RGlofJcmyJt8ag4F1wg_IDnPCt8P4CUDq_ivQX6si7gqda573ns4a4rHkqTTH-IOrPy43PMIhwTT9r6alZGIJYah/s1600-h/Eklecticafe+Patio+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlyagC6bgNXr2RuPwBz16CGhspEi-wuhgwP0WCceMqtWSsaoqmBTi_RGlofJcmyJt8ag4F1wg_IDnPCt8P4CUDq_ivQX6si7gqda573ns4a4rHkqTTH-IOrPy43PMIhwTT9r6alZGIJYah/s320/Eklecticafe+Patio+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374844969168271746" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Eklecticafe for breakfast is a great choice. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: Eklecticafe's beautiful garden setting.</span><br /><br />The Eklecticafe, near the north end of main street, has a terrific breakfast and fresh baked pastry selection plus a beautiful garden seating area that's totally chill. You order at the counter inside and they bring the food out to your table. In the meantime, you can refill coffee to your heart's pounding content at their self-service beverage bar.<br /><br />After a superb and satiating breakfast of scrambled eggs, sausage, potatoes and toast with plenty of orange juice and coffee, I grabbed a couple of fresh pastries at the counter, paid and was on my way. Before leaving town, I snapped a couple of photos of the Colorado River as it carves its way through the red rock canyon from the dedicated pedestrian/bicycle bridge north of town . It was a beautiful last look at this oasis of fun in the desert.<br /><br />From there it was back up the Moab Fault, retracing my steps north along highway 191 to the intersection with interstate 70. Crossing the plain, I got one last, distant look at the otherworldly rock formations of Arches National Park on the eastern horizon.<br /><br />It's hard to imagine what the living and traveling conditions must have been like for early settlers in these harsh environments. Admiring the landscape from inside my environmentally controlled vehicle, I marveled at their resiliency as I crossed the scorching plains in temperature controlled comfort, drinking a cold bottle of water and listening to my favorite tunes on the 8-speaker sound system.<br /><br />I was headed back in to Colorado. First stop: the city of Grand Junction, the largest city on the western slope of the Rockies, roughly 112 miles west-northwest of Moab. This unheralded city lies at the junction of the Gunnison and Colorado rivers, in the middle of the 30-mile long farming oasis known as Grand Valley, just to the north of the beautiful, Grand Canyon like Colorado National Monument.<br /><br />With over 100,000 residents in the city and surrounding municipalities, Grand Junction is the largest population center between Denver and Las Vegas (over 500 miles to the southwest) and Salt Lake City (nearly 300 miles to the northwest). Towering over the city is the imposing 11,000 foot high, 500 square mile <span style="font-style: italic;">Grand Mesa</span>, the largest table-top mountain in the world. As you approach from the west it provides a formidable backdrop to the farms and orchards of the lush green valley.<br /><br />Grand Junction is a much bigger, working man's version of Moab. Mountain bikers and hikers are joined by hunters and fishermen; river and back country guides by farmers and roughnecks; trendy boutiques by Wal-Mart, Home Depot and Best Buy. Still, with its work-a-day attitude, western setting and architecture, Grand Junction has a unique style all its own.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErq5zsaytn2LSydKUeLX1WdNbqX-vpLgsjSYVVQLyKMwlrzwpMhzYDtuZw7Ely9SVEgej4c7mSUFOrhvQ-hAzltNGMlFXXwSmfWnNpqNXCumNE9Sk2dTJu2f17ktTcsUdh8u23QL6FyQK/s1600-h/Main+Street+Grand+Junction+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiErq5zsaytn2LSydKUeLX1WdNbqX-vpLgsjSYVVQLyKMwlrzwpMhzYDtuZw7Ely9SVEgej4c7mSUFOrhvQ-hAzltNGMlFXXwSmfWnNpqNXCumNE9Sk2dTJu2f17ktTcsUdh8u23QL6FyQK/s320/Main+Street+Grand+Junction+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374844981928180898" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR6x2AmuBu1-jVMfWAtD7ZwBcaLv6pHtXvhLPrZD3_E6auI-934tA8i2Xv3laM8iRXdezRhhTAvpkoVNbB8TksSh5qqPBEJ9ojEEpNvBrDVFL6wrwg5cPQxx6rDklx6CZb6FPmsi3LwNyY/s1600-h/Mesa+Marquis+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR6x2AmuBu1-jVMfWAtD7ZwBcaLv6pHtXvhLPrZD3_E6auI-934tA8i2Xv3laM8iRXdezRhhTAvpkoVNbB8TksSh5qqPBEJ9ojEEpNvBrDVFL6wrwg5cPQxx6rDklx6CZb6FPmsi3LwNyY/s320/Mesa+Marquis+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846247512192786" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Main Street, Grand Junction, Co. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: Johnny Winter, coming soon to the Mesa</span><br /><br />I made a beeline for quaint, tree-lined Main Street, the beautifully western looking shopping and hang out district in the heart of town. The street is lined with an interesting array of eclectic retailers. Western outfitters and saddle shops, hardware and drug stores can be found right next to tourist stores, high-priced art galleries, low-priced antique shops and a full range of restaurants and bars from fast food to uber-trendy sushi.<br /><br />Here, just a few doors down from Champion Boots I made a stop at Author's Gallery Books, a used book cornucopia that's been a mainstay of Main Street for over 18 years. Hard working owner Marge Rupp took over the store four years ago from the original owner and founder and is working to keep her 40,000 book plus inventory under control as a constant flow of gently used books comes in the front door.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgycTH41srQnmIGpNJC8u9oF_nuChQv5_CQY9pPKvNEpXHZHv3HNZSoLEjx5seGV_memlTzHHcZyieTT8eWXxDCM9O2zbP2Dr5-QMWe1hJRUfm_zgdN3L8SkECNFyYwxOihQll9gSObLl42/s1600-h/Authors+Gallery+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgycTH41srQnmIGpNJC8u9oF_nuChQv5_CQY9pPKvNEpXHZHv3HNZSoLEjx5seGV_memlTzHHcZyieTT8eWXxDCM9O2zbP2Dr5-QMWe1hJRUfm_zgdN3L8SkECNFyYwxOihQll9gSObLl42/s320/Authors+Gallery+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846229971734258" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6z0TJlaUmZ9M6MmECvtilK2Ep2q6Kd2YQd4lfA_RCphZrVvdEMPseizd_8D5BETzq7xlGh2LIbLMp_EZqtUQxkNSi1U9jety8CnmIeJaJ34UoFcgwoFRnDE1ZHAasDRuO3zbpDaMDHJ-B/s1600-h/Marge+%26+Cinnamon+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6z0TJlaUmZ9M6MmECvtilK2Ep2q6Kd2YQd4lfA_RCphZrVvdEMPseizd_8D5BETzq7xlGh2LIbLMp_EZqtUQxkNSi1U9jety8CnmIeJaJ34UoFcgwoFRnDE1ZHAasDRuO3zbpDaMDHJ-B/s320/Marge+%26+Cinnamon+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374847365972764754" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Author's Gallery Bookstore. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: Marge and Cinnamon (he's sooo cute!)</span><br /><br />Luckily, she has the help of her assistant and constant companion, Cinnamon, possibly the cutest toy poodle ever. Cinnamon is one of those dogs that you immediately want to take home with you. However, seeing he plays such a key role in store security, I kept my dreams of dog napping at bay for the time being. Author's Gallery Books has a huge selection with many out-of-print and hard-to-find titles available at great prices. If you stop by, tell marge the Booktraveler sent you!<br /><br />After visiting with Marge and Cinnamon, I headed across the street to a great looking antique store, which I mention only because the prices on antiques were so good here. I honestly thought of hiring a u-haul to fill up and drive back. I could pay for the trip three times over with the profits. But I digress. On a final note, I was glad to see that famed rock-blues guitar man Johnny Winter was "still alive and well" and headed to Grand Junction to play at the famed Mesa Theater on Main Street. Not such a cultural backwater after all it seems!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRGu82EvCIrdG0zg36N4jlDLaKyvcLlqcFZKHI7JvwfvIpnHpOLyChp2xGB9dkDEoAqV6Mr3sRzc9SeXW_o-E-CP0zgXdSzBb5VaKUu9dTCE3yz5X5QEtIKGSFRpO-s0zRPpLMEYo4Hnd-/s1600-h/Twice+Bookshop+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRGu82EvCIrdG0zg36N4jlDLaKyvcLlqcFZKHI7JvwfvIpnHpOLyChp2xGB9dkDEoAqV6Mr3sRzc9SeXW_o-E-CP0zgXdSzBb5VaKUu9dTCE3yz5X5QEtIKGSFRpO-s0zRPpLMEYo4Hnd-/s320/Twice+Bookshop+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846255355181298" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneIdgz5Z9moGJamCgSRwlvPPJmm_7v4uSrxYe8hzMWtoUA0d1iEH8jkEokpWA6Z-dlL5vMYPi9qb5iNGtcdGPiu4bsrG3amoQ7kk4a6voD3Af63DK-mQNviJimJhg8jhZhLPldXoXdnyU/s1600-h/Twice+Bookshop+Int+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgneIdgz5Z9moGJamCgSRwlvPPJmm_7v4uSrxYe8hzMWtoUA0d1iEH8jkEokpWA6Z-dlL5vMYPi9qb5iNGtcdGPiu4bsrG3amoQ7kk4a6voD3Af63DK-mQNviJimJhg8jhZhLPldXoXdnyU/s320/Twice+Bookshop+Int+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374846266297247154" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Twice Upon a Time Bookshop inside and out.</span></span><br /><br />Moving along I hit the the big box strip mall drag along North Avenue on the way out of town, where I had the pleasure of stopping at a beautiful new and used indie nestled comfortably between the Best Buys, Dollar Stores, K-marts and MacDonald's that populate the avenue. Twice Upon a Time Bookshop has been a standout independent bookstore in the same location for over 12 years.<br /><br />Owner Margie Wilson took over the store 2 years ago, and has since honed the interior decor, store layout and inventory to produce a gem of a bookstore with a great selection of local and western literature to compliment a broad selection of main stream titles, unique cards and gifts. It's a great little store and together with Author's Gallery Books, makes Grand Junction a choice destination for any Booktraveler.<br /><br />With so many miles to travel, I held off on lunch and continued on into the Rockies from the west, following I-70 as it meanders its way into the high country along the scenic Colorado River. I continued through historic Glenwood Springs, home of the famous Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge and Pool, the largest natural hot springs pool in the world, turning south on highway 82 for the scenic climb into Aspen.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVEeWKtprxCUw-SwYi-YQEgWReQrerWmZ7UXZEHF1cQQblZtswz9sFW6AABMBnOdJCgurLKKHi9_ZQKP4t7nFwpxLdqqMvzaRpKjLdnSayzE-e9SCrCir4afwxa5oBpGarGQMJd3_WS3k/s1600-h/Aspen+Mountain+from+Mill+St+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 544px; height: 312px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRVEeWKtprxCUw-SwYi-YQEgWReQrerWmZ7UXZEHF1cQQblZtswz9sFW6AABMBnOdJCgurLKKHi9_ZQKP4t7nFwpxLdqqMvzaRpKjLdnSayzE-e9SCrCir4afwxa5oBpGarGQMJd3_WS3k/s320/Aspen+Mountain+from+Mill+St+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374847373312118306" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Aspen Mountain, looking south down Mill Street. Think snow!</span></span><br /><br />I stopped in this most appealing and quaint of jet setter towns to enjoy enchiladas and a margarita (or two) at the Cantina restaurant on Main Street. This was followed by an even more enjoyable late afternoon walk through town, punctuated with a quick stop at the Ben & Jerry's across from Wagner Park for ice cream and coffee.<br /><br />Aspen, for all its star-studded hoopla, is an amazingly quaint little town that somehow manages to retain a distinctly small town look and feel. The cost of housing does tend the keep the riffraff out, but walking up Mill street, breathing in the cool high mountain air and dreaming of snow while gazing up at the inviting runs of Aspen Mountain, you can't help but be amazed at the difference between this and the oppressive, runaway development at resorts like Steamboat Springs and Breckenridge.<br /><br />It was getting late and I wanted to make my way over nearby Independence Pass before dark. This amazing pass reaches a height of 12,098 feet, nearly a thousand feet above treeline, as it crosses a high mountain shoulder just south of Mt. Elbert, the highest mountain in Colorado and the second highest peak in the contiguous United States. At 14, 443 feet, it's just 60 feet shorter than California's Mt. Whitney. Mt. Elbert is the highest of Colorado's fifty-two 14,000 foot plus peaks, fifteen of which are in the same Sawatch Range which runs 70 miles from north to south.<br /><br />The narrow and nearly deserted paved road, which is closed during the long winter, twists and turns its way up a pine filled valley above a breathtaking high country meadow framed by towering peaks above. Near the top of the pass at nearly 11,000 feet is the ghost mining town of Independence, from which the pass gets its name. Hard to imaging life up here back in the late 1800's, but the if the lure of gold could drive men to live in the endless night of the Yukon winter, wintering at 11,000 feet in Colorado was probably not so bad by comparison, with very little in the way of cannibalism.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzKUGE5SWEA9sCa7AFpHYsV1GYXHJd9d9SWVylRJ01Y6XuUUPB0BPzh-UKOihkHzhEhESlV6xlcQxptBYztO_xm7bwerXq8mZkmshtS_icwU6reYA0fyAcWUz64hRR5PnmZGGauxomkR5Y/s1600-h/Mount+Elbert+from+Ind+Pass+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzKUGE5SWEA9sCa7AFpHYsV1GYXHJd9d9SWVylRJ01Y6XuUUPB0BPzh-UKOihkHzhEhESlV6xlcQxptBYztO_xm7bwerXq8mZkmshtS_icwU6reYA0fyAcWUz64hRR5PnmZGGauxomkR5Y/s320/Mount+Elbert+from+Ind+Pass+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374847379979455746" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4Llao31wV1IjS2FiPlMdOX7c9xot7vpNsEKe_NVTJeqY7U3GFOSzMf1uXFkkEl5CYgNrsMZPUnVJfzZ8bjGCwe-zIIc5TSprxLsVz_KNeYtUPMP7X0iOxm6p__mwz3LbjUWYh3_-zDi5/s1600-h/Moon+Rising+Over+La+Plata+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX4Llao31wV1IjS2FiPlMdOX7c9xot7vpNsEKe_NVTJeqY7U3GFOSzMf1uXFkkEl5CYgNrsMZPUnVJfzZ8bjGCwe-zIIc5TSprxLsVz_KNeYtUPMP7X0iOxm6p__mwz3LbjUWYh3_-zDi5/s320/Moon+Rising+Over+La+Plata+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374847524224682146" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above left</span>: Mount Elbert (left), highest mountain in CO. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above right</span>: moonrise over La Plata</span></span>.<br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Believe me, pictures alone don't do it justice.</span></span><br /><br />Reaching the top of the pass I took a few minutes to marvel at the exceptional views in the crisp clean evening air. The moon was halfway up in the sky over the imposing La Plata Peak (14,336 feet), which seemed an impossible distance across the darkening valley. I felt incredibly fortunate to have experience all of the natural beauty and wonders during this trip. Standing at 12,000 feet on top of the continental divide as the sun dipped below the horizon, I was struck by the awe-inspiring beauty of the moment, in humble reverence to the timeless forces of nature embodied in these these silent, majestic peaks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizhhNi4JGVRGC2C7txY0dPYMTINeljLz3RzYVb0c8FapvkqcYB9qEbB5Qxggfs_mzDcEn5virQaVcZ7Qv1T3a_qlAuEQIJv-wDSklWhm19BdYvWf_TYxmznxwP6Xip63t1CoCV6wWtmQvL/s1600-h/Sunset+over+Ind+Pass+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 630px; height: 340px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizhhNi4JGVRGC2C7txY0dPYMTINeljLz3RzYVb0c8FapvkqcYB9qEbB5Qxggfs_mzDcEn5virQaVcZ7Qv1T3a_qlAuEQIJv-wDSklWhm19BdYvWf_TYxmznxwP6Xip63t1CoCV6wWtmQvL/s320/Sunset+over+Ind+Pass+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374847386669434466" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >Sunset at 12,098 feet atop Independence Pass.</span><br /><br />Night was coming on fast and I kept a close watch for wildlife in the road as it wound its way back down to civilization. Reaching the road junction at Twin Lakes, I turned south on highway 24 and coasted the 20 miles down to the appropriately named Buena Vista (Beautiful View), where I shacked up in the resplendent comforts of the Topaz Lodge ($58).<br /><br />With a cold beer in hand and another chilling in a plastic ice bucket in the sink, I scrolled back through pictures of the day and ruminated over the incredible range of sights. From the red rock splendors of Moab and the arid fields of Grand Valley to the gentle, tree-lined slopes of Aspen and the high mountain splendors of Independence Pass, the range of sights, climates and micro-climates you can cover in one day makes any trip to the Rocky Mountain West an awe-inspiring journey.<br /><br />There's no rest for the weary however, and I had almost 100 miles to cover in the morning to reach Colorado Springs, then another 71 miles north to make my 6pm plane to Portland. It's been a long, venturesome trip and I'm looking forward to the final push back to Denver, the unparalleled beauty of the Pacific Northwest and the used book wonderland of Portland, Oregon. Join me won't you?<br /><br />Next Post: Colorado Springs, Garden of the Gods and Regional Reads. Until then-<br /><br />-Cheers!Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-16000542819910199942009-08-20T09:45:00.000-07:002009-08-21T15:32:07.715-07:00Arching through MoabEven though I woke up later than usual, I was still unable to face the "continental breakfast" provided by the hotel. Instead I grabbed an astringent cup of coffee and a small, tasteless sleeve of powdered donuts at the gas station next to the Travelodge and was on my way.<br /><br />Leaving the narrow strip of civilization around Salt Lake City, the most western most part of my drive, I was headed back through the Wasatch on highway 6, across the San Rafael Desert to Moab, Utah, 3 hours to the southeast.<br /><br />The first hour of the drive was beautiful as the ever changing landscapes of the pine covered Wasatch passed by. Descending the eastern slope, the mountains and trees gave way to a landscape of parched valleys bordered by high cliffs and desert plateaus, distinctly beautiful in its own right but I wouldn't want to be caught without a canteen.<br /><br />I jumped off the highway and took a quick spin through the town of Helper, Utah hoping for some grub. It was not to be. With the exception of the Western Mining and Railroad Museum just south of town, Helper seemed like it was in need of some help itself, with most of the stores, hotels, restaurants and theaters along the picturesque main street long since abandoned.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4XZWQFlFFxg0X4xNBVQyhMNew52tLGFMIdCDphA1p5haTDTk5T6JARxolIv-o5n_FntUJOT2UiWeHzsLbIeMKpOuKK3momCgxdXWMxdJ-R189Den0UheJ0UoBAoAs4Xw-piePy57M16T/s1600-h/Helper+Utah+Piggly+Wiggly+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn4XZWQFlFFxg0X4xNBVQyhMNew52tLGFMIdCDphA1p5haTDTk5T6JARxolIv-o5n_FntUJOT2UiWeHzsLbIeMKpOuKK3momCgxdXWMxdJ-R189Den0UheJ0UoBAoAs4Xw-piePy57M16T/s320/Helper+Utah+Piggly+Wiggly+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372538487003716002" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvXEgm7jY0uRU5kwPPX9BiFbumeih7k77N8z_i5reDQUAQgDSVDto-o1gqcnePjBQNouev9vj-KKYFW3HqpAuqYLSur6xy_hUIqw3LyflyIdg1yNhOgpNWvyz0Xnr72dZxHKo8sZaQSq5/s1600-h/Groggs+%26+Pinnacle+Brewing+Company+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvXEgm7jY0uRU5kwPPX9BiFbumeih7k77N8z_i5reDQUAQgDSVDto-o1gqcnePjBQNouev9vj-KKYFW3HqpAuqYLSur6xy_hUIqw3LyflyIdg1yNhOgpNWvyz0Xnr72dZxHKo8sZaQSq5/s320/Groggs+%26+Pinnacle+Brewing+Company+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372538494531448642" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Main Street, Helper Utah. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: Groggs and Pinnacle Brewing Co., Price Utah.</span><br /><br />About 10 miles further down the highway, near the town of Price, I followed the signs for Groggs Restaurant/Pinnacle Brewing Company which, it turned out, was well worth the 2 mile detour down North Carbondale Road. A big bowl of their homemade beef chili along with chips and salsa was just what the doctor ordered particularly when washed down with a couple of tasty glasses of their Pinnacle Brewing Company Amber. <span style="font-style: italic;">Sweet</span>!<br /><br />Jumping back on highway six, I continued another 60 miles through the harshly beautiful and thoroughly depopulated desert to the intersection with Interstate 70, just west of Green River, Utah. From there it was 25 miles along the base of the imposing Book Cliffs which towered over the desert to the north to the turnoff for highway 191 and the descent into Moab.<br /><br />For those living along the northeast coastal regions who have never been out west and are used to the verdant green of the eastern summer, the vast rocky expanses of the canyon lands surrounding Moab are a world apart. Huge rock formations rise up from the rocky horizon in place of trees while miles long escarpments rise and fall across the desolate landscape, creating and swallowing entire mountains and plunging deep into jagged rocky canyons.<br /><br />Over this twisted and contorted landscape, volcanic upheavals and millions of years worth of wind and weather erosion, floods and and runoff have shaped and sculpted the rocky promontories, ridges and shelves into towering citadels of multi-colored rock. As you cross the plain above Moab, these distant rock formations are framed by the 12,000 ft plus La Sal Mountains towering over the rocky desert plains 30 miles to the southwest.<br /><br />Moab itself is situated at the base of a broad valley, carved from mountains of red sandstone by the Colorado River. Here the river makes a sweeping turn south that forms a wide flat valley, creating a green oasis between the soaring red cliffs. This outdoor wonderland is a paradise for rafters, kayakers, climbers, mountain bikers and tourists, and provides easy access to two nearby national parks: Arches and Canyonlands.<br /><br />I wouldn't have time to visit both parks, so I opted for the more popular and easily accessible Arches National Park. After passing the entrance to Canyonlands National Park, the highway starts down through a steep ravine of red sandstone known as the Moab Fault.<br /><br />The entrance to the Arches National Park lies at the bottom of the Fault where the soaring sandstone cliffs open to form a semi-circular ravine which houses the swank Visitor Center. After paying the $20 entrance fee (which, incidentally, is NOT valid for the nearby Canyonlands National Park) I stopped at the Visitor Center to get my bearings, a map and some water.<br /><br />Being late in the afternoon, the temperature at the Visitor Center had dropped precipitously from 120 degrees to a pleasant 110 in the shade, which hit you like a brick wall when you opened the car door. The sun was starting to get low and casting deep shadows across the valley, which I guess this was prime time for visiting the park as cars, buses and RV's were arriving by the truckload.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguU29ZDikaj3IJ2ISDjkn9QXYcMReW3SchcBTsTgdpaqRqM1NgwrylUzndlms_ieN54nG1lBg80TfZMmyIExSbmEP58i3u6I1Q7p4-X6Xo2C_KHMo6vdLP-pUuU_7jZcdQe-QZxrMefm3H/s1600-h/Arches+Park+Ave+View+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 293px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguU29ZDikaj3IJ2ISDjkn9QXYcMReW3SchcBTsTgdpaqRqM1NgwrylUzndlms_ieN54nG1lBg80TfZMmyIExSbmEP58i3u6I1Q7p4-X6Xo2C_KHMo6vdLP-pUuU_7jZcdQe-QZxrMefm3H/s320/Arches+Park+Ave+View+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372538503525067202" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQpp_jkhK3OiCZylOy9d6EWwGe8hSVMG2LIYCWAOOiUJh2skmVx1lYr8sWqoWFXJ18DRW2eWiYHQ37C94mBSGBOTHrcMVapR_ABObbQBbklYXbQNz4Rre2-88OHvDBJBgXUp5goGfvCgB/s1600-h/Arches+Balanced+Rock+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYQpp_jkhK3OiCZylOy9d6EWwGe8hSVMG2LIYCWAOOiUJh2skmVx1lYr8sWqoWFXJ18DRW2eWiYHQ37C94mBSGBOTHrcMVapR_ABObbQBbklYXbQNz4Rre2-88OHvDBJBgXUp5goGfvCgB/s320/Arches+Balanced+Rock+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372538506370527026" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Arches National Park. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Park Ave. Viewpoint. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Balanced Rock</span></span><br /><br />Continuing on from the Visitor Center I followed the nicely maintained park road up and out of the fault, stopping to view some of the park's signature sights. I stopped at the monumental Park Avenue Viewpoint, continued past the towering Three Gossips and grabbed a photo at the teed up golf ball known as Balanced Rock.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5FXIfkvQXvVqOpI2WLf_YWEclAVrDa3U1Ne1aviOhL8Tk-ZQWWkNW3iu3lKQRWVkJbqYjGuXxk7WjdrLbOAlcGi_p_Ofac3QjRWSh_t3JVaZ8RNkpx3TbA6Iy3g2qX5w1-LprcVlVKmpR/s1600-h/Arches+View+up+Park+Ave+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5FXIfkvQXvVqOpI2WLf_YWEclAVrDa3U1Ne1aviOhL8Tk-ZQWWkNW3iu3lKQRWVkJbqYjGuXxk7WjdrLbOAlcGi_p_Ofac3QjRWSh_t3JVaZ8RNkpx3TbA6Iy3g2qX5w1-LprcVlVKmpR/s320/Arches+View+up+Park+Ave+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372539384037649634" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Xx_UTHQnWEYpy9g0ThqF9rvqfMNUCbtHYUL5-4cx5imAmab6PhqoFLllfGv_jsGBh5ra5Jz-9W1xXhaZLDIsbrJg8tKEd-Oi9ij-f_pSyWvloqlgUX5K3PFdX3WJvsWZHbhO4tm_c5dg/s1600-h/Arches+Three+Gossips+Courthouse+Tower+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Xx_UTHQnWEYpy9g0ThqF9rvqfMNUCbtHYUL5-4cx5imAmab6PhqoFLllfGv_jsGBh5ra5Jz-9W1xXhaZLDIsbrJg8tKEd-Oi9ij-f_pSyWvloqlgUX5K3PFdX3WJvsWZHbhO4tm_c5dg/s320/Arches+Three+Gossips+Courthouse+Tower+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372539360616138850" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Arches National Park. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: View up Park Ave. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Three Gossips (left) and Courthouse Rock (right)</span></span><br /><br />I stopped at the sign for "The Organ" but many of the rocks had a distinctly male organ look to them and I couldn't tell which one was which...or maybe that's not what they meant. Moving right along, I took the turnoff leading to the Cove of Caves and took a walk along the well groomed and popular paths up to The Windows and Turret arches, then back down and across to the gapingly huge Double Arch.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSYsUtcMzblhne1rd_yCLT1tBvwlqZ7lMw9d58pH8LtppEH67C6CHhy2R8mKhcskBoBjsp7mU8S9SiZARXJHXtR4Ff9Im3Nri83-Z-0Xck0PHhTfGN9kWGibhanBCo6FSmpxvaBNK6Se6R/s1600-h/Arches+North+Window+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 302px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSYsUtcMzblhne1rd_yCLT1tBvwlqZ7lMw9d58pH8LtppEH67C6CHhy2R8mKhcskBoBjsp7mU8S9SiZARXJHXtR4Ff9Im3Nri83-Z-0Xck0PHhTfGN9kWGibhanBCo6FSmpxvaBNK6Se6R/s320/Arches+North+Window+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372539352178927250" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MxTz_I1NTx8L1wZ-wghL91gwAYK3zQ-2V1vuC59JAswc_3dGvGYlC1qr58FWy-kjfIEmIS883rf9dKWkaVQWdYqeR8g0KyqQSTMQax14mkBzi0ggZIVcrYS9HSNiJFZaEky-eoZ05NsQ/s1600-h/Arches+Turret+Arch+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-MxTz_I1NTx8L1wZ-wghL91gwAYK3zQ-2V1vuC59JAswc_3dGvGYlC1qr58FWy-kjfIEmIS883rf9dKWkaVQWdYqeR8g0KyqQSTMQax14mkBzi0ggZIVcrYS9HSNiJFZaEky-eoZ05NsQ/s320/Arches+Turret+Arch+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372539368730295730" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >Arches National Park. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: North Window Arch. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Turret Arch</span><br /><br />"The Organ" notwithstanding, many of the formations had an organic look to them, which gave the park a distinctly different "Planet of the Apes" look and feel. Luckily, once you were up above the Visitor Center, a robust wind kept the searing temperature from feeling too oppressive.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIUqFnRz8RFmnyQgMpqnCacPcQpK5Dgz1agnMOR2eHtXrFCLtsv7hH2cnFTC5DgTbMea9Bwa1HRR9HIMgvSHnVkn8auCHvsymjWT0ThMZyK4IjXy7FurceBKC9qPzK0D7awOPlEkCCrHE/s1600-h/Arches+Double+Arch.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 499px; height: 372px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlIUqFnRz8RFmnyQgMpqnCacPcQpK5Dgz1agnMOR2eHtXrFCLtsv7hH2cnFTC5DgTbMea9Bwa1HRR9HIMgvSHnVkn8auCHvsymjWT0ThMZyK4IjXy7FurceBKC9qPzK0D7awOPlEkCCrHE/s320/Arches+Double+Arch.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372539375742076386" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Arches National Park. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Double Arch (note: small dots at bottom are people)</span></span><br /><br />Having seen enough arches for the day and more than a little worried about securing a hotel room in town, I retraced my steps back down to the park entrance, jumped back on 191 and headed across the Colorado River into Moab.<br /><br />First item on the agenda was a hotel. I parked in the middle of town and walked to a couple of hotels along main street, which were expensive and full. Taking to the lesser and uniquely named hotels along the backstreets, I found a room in The Virginian Motel based on a tip from another budget Motel a couple of streets over. Perfect! $58 a night, right in the center of town, quiet and off the main drag.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeOeT5FE5gdxBvnqwyh3zFIhLh3IC5z6YrVZ50QReiuQ7GfUXH8D63L2mwtAvDg_GM_GAIDb2UEYWCEyGtO7CDSzxmdZOYEHjKzVDqUVadYY2WYXIjxV2B2QZdYNDIJneI54Un5hDQp0-/s1600-h/The+Virginian+Motel+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 279px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZeOeT5FE5gdxBvnqwyh3zFIhLh3IC5z6YrVZ50QReiuQ7GfUXH8D63L2mwtAvDg_GM_GAIDb2UEYWCEyGtO7CDSzxmdZOYEHjKzVDqUVadYY2WYXIjxV2B2QZdYNDIJneI54Un5hDQp0-/s320/The+Virginian+Motel+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540869473649634" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyAL1Wn-JHvzPwYsJefGdQgRHug7ZpoKF5VTUFbTiA-TKn0pS1Eilgy8cScmmpXMQ3Jcw5RpL6DnU-KjlGhAr2IcpXhSiwYeTdVm9VMeaJFq7Owe9DCM76SDfvua3bbH1Jz6rBssHI_Ns/s1600-h/Miguel's+Baja+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJyAL1Wn-JHvzPwYsJefGdQgRHug7ZpoKF5VTUFbTiA-TKn0pS1Eilgy8cScmmpXMQ3Jcw5RpL6DnU-KjlGhAr2IcpXhSiwYeTdVm9VMeaJFq7Owe9DCM76SDfvua3bbH1Jz6rBssHI_Ns/s320/Miguel's+Baja+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540996203899810" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Moab, Utah. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: The Virginian Motel. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Miguel's Baja Grill (ohhhh the margs!)</span></span><br /><br />The next item on the agenda was food, and based on another lucky tip from a local coffee shop patron, I headed to Miguel's Baja Grill on Main Street for "Fine Mexican Food". They delivered better than advertised with a superb fresh enchilada plate and the best margaritas I'd had on the whole trip (sorry Rio Grande in Boulder). The first marg went down so easily the waiter apologized for giving me the glass with the hole in it...<span style="font-style: italic;">very funny</span>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJ5EQyHDh_lKSdA_QHFtxP1r5783Gr_QSDLEmQs-IO_0gRU6BwXCOERYg3aIFCCzk9GKFyj6ENgfD8bhviDaxsGi92CRZvEWw26MhlnhEg54ZiezIx9v4lR1_rtPsuRH6-lrcPjsdWapE/s1600-h/Back+of+Beyond+Books+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJ5EQyHDh_lKSdA_QHFtxP1r5783Gr_QSDLEmQs-IO_0gRU6BwXCOERYg3aIFCCzk9GKFyj6ENgfD8bhviDaxsGi92CRZvEWw26MhlnhEg54ZiezIx9v4lR1_rtPsuRH6-lrcPjsdWapE/s320/Back+of+Beyond+Books+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540660018958770" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqz7-IWTOhxgzfn7sVX6yq_4SJ2bDRy6JthqqXfV-F5nCE10max8brM0iluzxg_dCqelj3PGLbavwhHDMp3tMZYtfjqyH3uTPjY20q6xe-M-BiZ5p9ibntJmqWAp5aGSliCuebQtXP1zz1/s1600-h/Andy+Nettell+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 284px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqz7-IWTOhxgzfn7sVX6yq_4SJ2bDRy6JthqqXfV-F5nCE10max8brM0iluzxg_dCqelj3PGLbavwhHDMp3tMZYtfjqyH3uTPjY20q6xe-M-BiZ5p9ibntJmqWAp5aGSliCuebQtXP1zz1/s320/Andy+Nettell+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540404186224274" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Moab, Utah. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Back of Beyond Books. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Owner Andy Nettell</span></span><br /><br />Anyway after stuffing myself on enchiladas washed down with a couple of stupendous margaritas I was off to the next and final item on the agenda: bookstores! The first store I visited, just a couple of doors down from Miguel's Baja Grill, was <a href="http://www.backofbeyondbooks.com/">Back of Beyond Books</a>. This great little new and used indie specializes<span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:georgia;"> in local </span></span><span style="font-family: georgia; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);font-family:Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, san-serif;font-size:100%;color:#404040;" >natural history and environmental literature, guidebooks & maps, Native American and Western history along with a distinct and interesting assortment of general fiction and non-fiction.</span><br /><br />Owner Andy Nettell is a big Edward Abbey fan and among his three cases of rare and collectible books you'll find an entire case devoted to Edward Abbey. Directly across the street from Back of Beyond Books is the equally cool <a href="http://www.archesbookcompany.com/">Arches Book Company</a>, featuring a great selection of general new and used titles, a great coffee bar and a diverse offering of maps, local guidebooks and books by local authors. Last but certainly not least is ABC & Beyond Used books, just a couple of blocks south on Main Street, which offers a broad selection of general used titles at great prices.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihpgrQXLgkqFoyJbYwRR8wqNZaCsGWh6GoQph3BzW4m3btWKpOhIU0iFAcVDiSUTlgQ95-XHBcpBV24a5UbDYZj7GeYwzQGKSAhsuR16Mndq_G_M1moByfYBVBISUzroF4154C1lD6sHic/s1600-h/Arches+Book+Company+Front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 298px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihpgrQXLgkqFoyJbYwRR8wqNZaCsGWh6GoQph3BzW4m3btWKpOhIU0iFAcVDiSUTlgQ95-XHBcpBV24a5UbDYZj7GeYwzQGKSAhsuR16Mndq_G_M1moByfYBVBISUzroF4154C1lD6sHic/s320/Arches+Book+Company+Front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540425492264242" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRprVEW-xbmBfV5rKNbsL4NX7UEWns5cYkJsWPMxdOpUdcwdq0ZzedHzQnyVsUq3pKc7K0lFSe-IQDhWHtKirwb_bbjGz1FnGraOk_8WIUadzgu1IRHrs75voHWEC-6UvATrHWyY6o3VA/s1600-h/Arches+Book+Company+Coffee+Bar+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHRprVEW-xbmBfV5rKNbsL4NX7UEWns5cYkJsWPMxdOpUdcwdq0ZzedHzQnyVsUq3pKc7K0lFSe-IQDhWHtKirwb_bbjGz1FnGraOk_8WIUadzgu1IRHrs75voHWEC-6UvATrHWyY6o3VA/s320/Arches+Book+Company+Coffee+Bar+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540418387449826" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Moab Utah. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Arches Book company. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right: </span>Arches Book Company coffee bar.</span></span><br /><br />All three of these interesting and diverse stores are owned by Andy, making him Moab's one man media marvel. He's also a major sponsor of the <a href="http://www.moabconfluence.org/">Moab Confluence Literary Festival</a>: <span style="font-style: italic;">A Celebration of Eating and Writing</span>, to be held October 22-25 in Moab. If you 're going to be in the neighborhood, you won't want to miss it!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8UIRB2ZkslqPrfSTwmKaZZILB38dt8euJCBZlwtyrxsEzJx8ExeoVuhcGC0SpNwd0uic9P7V0jSZU8IVeZgv9Di4KBk1LUxlQ6uOoTkA5RnzKxvlKETD-NZ8Mk_M7YuudBEY5uOdRjc2R/s1600-h/ABC+%26+Beyond+Used+Books+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8UIRB2ZkslqPrfSTwmKaZZILB38dt8euJCBZlwtyrxsEzJx8ExeoVuhcGC0SpNwd0uic9P7V0jSZU8IVeZgv9Di4KBk1LUxlQ6uOoTkA5RnzKxvlKETD-NZ8Mk_M7YuudBEY5uOdRjc2R/s320/ABC+%26+Beyond+Used+Books+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540389576226418" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpLLGHaJLKVfNPFvwr5rE_07jGYygMZ3pi0vKEtDdvsbyy14kDl41cpvYXV8KEX_Cc4wHo3CA10RmGuJfNAhUHTD7yCqgG8LPBJ1hqfEPF82lbleyS4iUTAvhyhdn3DS4n4W2iDsKuyqZ/s1600-h/ABC+%26+Beyond+Used+Books+int+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpLLGHaJLKVfNPFvwr5rE_07jGYygMZ3pi0vKEtDdvsbyy14kDl41cpvYXV8KEX_Cc4wHo3CA10RmGuJfNAhUHTD7yCqgG8LPBJ1hqfEPF82lbleyS4iUTAvhyhdn3DS4n4W2iDsKuyqZ/s320/ABC+%26+Beyond+Used+Books+int+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5372540398208125954" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Moab Utah. :<span style="font-weight: bold;">Above: </span>ABC & Beyond Used Books, outside and in.</span></span><br /><br />Another day, another dollar spent. Salt Lake City is already a distant dream and tomorrow it's back to Colorado. I headed back to my room at the Virginian Motel a little earlier than usual to catch up on some writing, reading and well deserved rest. It was a great day in Arches and Moab and the unique landscape combined with the plethora of activities available make it a truly one-of-a-kind destination.<br /><br />Join me on my next post as I head back to Colorado, sampling the bookstores of Grand Junction, dinner in Aspen and a drive over the 12,000 foot Independence Pass.<br /><br />Until then-<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">-Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-34704806513661279632009-08-17T19:32:00.000-07:002009-08-19T12:54:45.245-07:00Fast Times in the Land of Mormon<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3U9nja7sX9ioVQn3RzEs3nHZ62lPE_VnJg6U3c4LaG895lPsX-bvgNrF0zym2J4BlyCQby3l1bEVtD2i7uJWSx4CZbveV6GdOFmpe4LEBGOUWByIGWUGZML1PgYlOdmhl-N3O4TsGmeQQ/s1600-h/Three+Rivers+Motel+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 432px; height: 159px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3U9nja7sX9ioVQn3RzEs3nHZ62lPE_VnJg6U3c4LaG895lPsX-bvgNrF0zym2J4BlyCQby3l1bEVtD2i7uJWSx4CZbveV6GdOFmpe4LEBGOUWByIGWUGZML1PgYlOdmhl-N3O4TsGmeQQ/s320/Three+Rivers+Motel+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371701427264695474" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Three River Motel reprised.</span><br /><br />Being on the road offers an abundance of rich and rewarding experiences. Waking up to the faded splendor of the Three Rivers Motel in Alpine, Wyoming...<span style="font-style: italic;">priceless</span>!<br /><br />I removed the tilted chair wedged under the single-lock door knob and walked outside into the bright, unfiltered morning. An oppressive sun already beat down from the azure skies above the eastern mountains. It was gonna be a hot time in Alpine today!<br /><br />I didn't have to look far for place to eat. Directly next door to the Three Rivers Motel, as the vulture flies, stood Yankee Doodle's Cafe which was attached to the Red, White & <span style="font-style: italic;">Brew </span>Bar & Lounge. Both displayed a welcoming OPEN sign, but seeing as it was going to be a long, hard day on the road, and was only 8:30 AM, I opted for the Caf<span style="font-family:georgia;">e</span>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhgijL2WjPfji1pgrjl8lv8VKNyg0pA9JhrU6JbSXVUjF50qe2Dz3Q6Sny8a_I-4lypPZkjMNCyjYcGnuQ1iTsewm-VY2fYIi0uXdG_EZYAP2HvV3EMBQ6yJqWozbKhrr67JQ0b7oKb1o/s1600-h/Yankee+Doodle%27s+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 491px; height: 186px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAhgijL2WjPfji1pgrjl8lv8VKNyg0pA9JhrU6JbSXVUjF50qe2Dz3Q6Sny8a_I-4lypPZkjMNCyjYcGnuQ1iTsewm-VY2fYIi0uXdG_EZYAP2HvV3EMBQ6yJqWozbKhrr67JQ0b7oKb1o/s320/Yankee+Doodle%27s+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371701439610678098" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Yankee Doodle's Cafe and the Red,White & Brew Bar & Lounge</span><br /><br />Now <span style="font-style: italic;">THIS </span>was America! Stepping through the entrance of Yankee Doodle's Cafe one entered a veritable playground of patriotic paraphernalia. Vintage posters, placards, banners, toys, pictures, "souvenir" firearms and figurines adorned virtually every wall and shelf. All of it was USA themed, many featuring quips and quotations reflecting a distinctly quaint right-leaning point of view. Overhead, a wide screen TV beamed the political pontificates of Fox News into the packed restaurant.<br /><br />Compared to the pleasant crowd seated around the sunny dining room and counter, politically, I was probably somewhere just to left of Noam Chomsky. This was of no concern whatsoever on this most magnanimous of mornings however, as eggs and bacon, grits and pancakes, washed down with a pot full of jet black coffee gave me a deep and abiding love for everything and everyone American with just a few minor exceptions.<br /><br />Stimulated and satisfied by this most American of morning meals, I kicked up a roiling cloud of dust as I thundered across the dirt parking lot and skidded back on to the highway. I pointed the car south and headed toward the Land of Mormon, still warmed by vestigial feelings of patriotic fervency.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58ZfolEGZrrJ09UXhKOV9zRwdNdy7YHfevz3t7BTpx8FDXgwonvjodwcFUBFDi3G32rkFuV41g5sjNZdnAJquR7eCjQS7PmVGrOAo-GuY_XDobfmYA_ZQ8AkT-ZQeMHBFxkw0lvxEt_Kk/s1600-h/World's+Largest+Elkhorn+Arch,+Afton+wy+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 527px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi58ZfolEGZrrJ09UXhKOV9zRwdNdy7YHfevz3t7BTpx8FDXgwonvjodwcFUBFDi3G32rkFuV41g5sjNZdnAJquR7eCjQS7PmVGrOAo-GuY_XDobfmYA_ZQ8AkT-ZQeMHBFxkw0lvxEt_Kk/s320/World's+Largest+Elkhorn+Arch,+Afton+wy+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371701442726018706" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: "The World's Larges Elkhorn Arch" Afton, WY.</span><br /><br />Roughly 35 miles south of Alpine, the highway passes through the town of Afton, WY where I stopped to view "The world's largest Elkhorn Arch" spanning Washington Street right in the middle of town. A couple of blocks further on I happened happily upon Dog-Eared Books, a remarkably cool "new and used" indie in this most surprising and remote of locations.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0KmvXAhTU1bSw7X81geJqRyDm8jO_f2mYR-qKqAU-UCZEMW16bH7XHDiirtafLLb2RRdkiXHaoFYjPo26c_J2CHuiQQmQFDOuF0sFf5wh4HJkMOY5hteeoVexn_9nqEQp_X-H7si6LtzK/s1600-h/Dog+Eared+Books+Afton+wy+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0KmvXAhTU1bSw7X81geJqRyDm8jO_f2mYR-qKqAU-UCZEMW16bH7XHDiirtafLLb2RRdkiXHaoFYjPo26c_J2CHuiQQmQFDOuF0sFf5wh4HJkMOY5hteeoVexn_9nqEQp_X-H7si6LtzK/s320/Dog+Eared+Books+Afton+wy+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371701453770870242" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlYykP1Tcvk8q7Moa0FLG2Mb0xuY58HsFHRs69CYIb8ItUKKCED__qCmRomOZjeUHKZgnc1mn5uyd0MUH28zSGYzxLgndsW3RDOUvW6CIidjXtreQVBRmCqd5F9k3c-lafA2SPHTFZECzc/s1600-h/Dog-Eared+Books+Int+A+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlYykP1Tcvk8q7Moa0FLG2Mb0xuY58HsFHRs69CYIb8ItUKKCED__qCmRomOZjeUHKZgnc1mn5uyd0MUH28zSGYzxLgndsW3RDOUvW6CIidjXtreQVBRmCqd5F9k3c-lafA2SPHTFZECzc/s320/Dog-Eared+Books+Int+A+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371701459549471250" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Dog-Eared Books, Afton, WY</span><br /><br />The great decor of this little gem provides a perfect compliment to the exceptional selection of new, used, local interest and kid's titles, while their extraordinarily cozy reading nooks are enough to stop even the most seasoned Booktraveler in their tracks. I mean if for any reason you ever find yourself in Afton, WY, say for instance: to see "The World's Largest Elkhorn Arch", this would be a great place to spend the afternoon.<br /><br />There's no rest for the weary however and I was soon off again, crossing the border into southern Idaho at the hamlet of Geneva, then continuing on through the town of Montpelier toward Bear Lake. Now while Bear Lake may look small on the map, this is the second largest natural freshwater lake in Utah and, unbeknownst to me, a thriving summertime tourist metropolis a mere 80 miles north of Salt Lake City.<br /><br />Approaching the lakefront resort town of Garden City, I became part of an automotive gridlock that would make 'Jersey Shore day trippers blush. Jammed in between SUV's and pickups towing the latest wake boarding boats and PWC's, I marveled at the people playing mini-golf, eating ice cream and strolling around in the 110 plus degree heat.<br /><br />Making my escape down a side road, I was soon continuing onward and upward over Beaver Mountain and down into real Mormon country. My first stop was the college town of Logan, UT, home of Utah State University (<span style="font-style: italic;">Go Aggies!</span>). Descending the western slope of the Wasatch-Cache National Forest I passed through the university campus which sits atop a grand promontory nearly a thousand feet above and 20 degrees cooler than Logan itself.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl7wHXbpVbYhDLaDWBpdmwTdsV5HzB1_dTtiZsRoo0mKjWMGwXxmBOU0EmG261Icv0bG16rgH4dweAOo3jxJ0OGXfCAxsBNa_dKmYWuHnwUJ47orAtyEASeq4gFFwPN-ZWxhAT3y0KDkrW/s1600-h/Books+of+Yesteryear+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 208px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl7wHXbpVbYhDLaDWBpdmwTdsV5HzB1_dTtiZsRoo0mKjWMGwXxmBOU0EmG261Icv0bG16rgH4dweAOo3jxJ0OGXfCAxsBNa_dKmYWuHnwUJ47orAtyEASeq4gFFwPN-ZWxhAT3y0KDkrW/s320/Books+of+Yesteryear+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371702459650114018" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2IFV-vL08a-UTL8O-Dwa9qa6Npo9zlsoQ4PLOGoJZIvgiCeHEpTH-TBjYTX09ENSRArCeL3tRHLRsNplfSt5c2nTKkB2NeTBk1zAPDNKN5_XZEw4iSA9ntNEc4MUiKhTsJBXOdDilFoP/s1600-h/Books+of+Yesteryear+IntA+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 207px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga2IFV-vL08a-UTL8O-Dwa9qa6Npo9zlsoQ4PLOGoJZIvgiCeHEpTH-TBjYTX09ENSRArCeL3tRHLRsNplfSt5c2nTKkB2NeTBk1zAPDNKN5_XZEw4iSA9ntNEc4MUiKhTsJBXOdDilFoP/s320/Books+of+Yesteryear+IntA+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371702467875687090" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSS6NRA8-ZirTrnD2MrwW2AOLjhnuXpsidCBb8y158uB3p3XmL8kq0LG0eELuSYexUJ7epCTAH2IWViD7KS6fIDDfmIRSsAUgKuOIuFrR1Ll86uyfGQI_-G-VUyYqlBb_vqPWTlRQafAs/s1600-h/Books+of+Yesteryear+Downstairs+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 279px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuSS6NRA8-ZirTrnD2MrwW2AOLjhnuXpsidCBb8y158uB3p3XmL8kq0LG0eELuSYexUJ7epCTAH2IWViD7KS6fIDDfmIRSsAUgKuOIuFrR1Ll86uyfGQI_-G-VUyYqlBb_vqPWTlRQafAs/s320/Books+of+Yesteryear+Downstairs+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371702491807143074" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVSMl9fHJebvh1QkZK5mRMKl6baaTW0d6_f0pC9t_zZYoinkBY14x_moO1SJxgQ2fmIFWOxxw-aOqVubUV-6_wBdMEFg7_R-DvWKcmut-VJKDK19HKI1IusRm50klmjauJq29pE7lb9wBF/s1600-h/Books+of+Yesteryear+IntB+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 279px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVSMl9fHJebvh1QkZK5mRMKl6baaTW0d6_f0pC9t_zZYoinkBY14x_moO1SJxgQ2fmIFWOxxw-aOqVubUV-6_wBdMEFg7_R-DvWKcmut-VJKDK19HKI1IusRm50klmjauJq29pE7lb9wBF/s320/Books+of+Yesteryear+IntB+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371702476045653858" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Books of Yesteryear; clockwise from top left: store front, main floor, main floor again, and basement</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"> (lower left)</span></span>.<br /><br />Descending into the town, highway 89 turns on to scenic Main Street, where I stopped to check out a couple of interesting local bookstores. The first, located across from Zions Bank and just down the road from Cache Stake Tabernacle, was the huge and I mean HUGE <span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Books of Yesteryear</span>. It featured used books and movies, including movies for rent, on two sprawling floors that must have been over 15,000 square feet each.<br /><br />There must have been over 300,000 used books in there, everything you can possibly imagine and a few things you couldn't, including vast lots of out-of-print Mormon/LDS (Church of Latter Day Saints) titles and a whole host of books predating the Roosevelt administration (the first one that is). They also had a gigantic collection of movies for sale or rent.<br /><br />There were only a few people spread around this labyrinthine store on this absolutely scorching hot Saturday afternoon. I can only imagine what it must be like when the college gets in.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNI7Izap2fr-0_bnmxAh28Bm27lxw1mT320_1EO7JP9kmEJ2dnuKT7SYjq8uSU7KCQ4tQ6HJICAKwRiWTT12tk6ktAJS2nA_NVSailISBpXlhOL7zTydgjFmNNN_V1n7oodgttAw1V8BI/s1600-h/The+Book+Table+Logan+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 370px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyNI7Izap2fr-0_bnmxAh28Bm27lxw1mT320_1EO7JP9kmEJ2dnuKT7SYjq8uSU7KCQ4tQ6HJICAKwRiWTT12tk6ktAJS2nA_NVSailISBpXlhOL7zTydgjFmNNN_V1n7oodgttAw1V8BI/s320/The+Book+Table+Logan+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371702500477148402" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Books of Yesteryear sister store: The Book Table. Great place to buy books, pianos, guitars, sheet music, art supplies, toys, maps of </span></span><br /><br />Just down the street from The Books of Yesteryear is its gigantic sister store: The Book Table. This unique new book store has copies of every Mormon/LDS book ever printed, along with a host of interesting LDS sidelines like maps of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zarahemla">Zarahemla</a> from the Book of Mormon.<br /><br />The store features a robust selection of general interest and kid's titles, however, what makes this LDS-centric bookstore oh so interesting, is that is also a musical instrument store, music school, toy store, art & crafts store, framing store, educational store and lord knows what else. It too is over 50,000 square feet so the piano's didn't seem entirely out of place.<br /><br />Perusing the vast selection of Mormon books certainly made me want to learn more about The Church of Latter Day Saints. Think I'll read Jon Krakauer's "Under The Banner of Heaven" when I get back. One final note before moving along, Logan had its own Opera House and company: <a href="https://www.ufoc.org/">The Utah Festival Opera</a>, which I thought was pretty cool. This year's schedule includes The Mikado, Camelot, and I Pagliacci among others.<br /><br />Continuing on toward Salt Lake City, and I was determined to swim in Great Salt Lake, #894 on my 1000 things to do before I die list. Reading up on it while I was on my way down, it seemed Antelope Island State Park was the place to go if you wanted a swim.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMAfJIQsU5G5yrajHk4E-upkBOutT2XF0FTzprE2dpTdn-YWi_Yas3EivQ-jX__JZgWnI8qI3ouhtZOe7ooHXwsKb3hnVS0CSNoBNWOkOcYOWqolKa55f3Ll0K0nkSA5QdxTJyiakgM6YU/s1600-h/Car+on+GSL+Causeway+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 573px; height: 189px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMAfJIQsU5G5yrajHk4E-upkBOutT2XF0FTzprE2dpTdn-YWi_Yas3EivQ-jX__JZgWnI8qI3ouhtZOe7ooHXwsKb3hnVS0CSNoBNWOkOcYOWqolKa55f3Ll0K0nkSA5QdxTJyiakgM6YU/s320/Car+on+GSL+Causeway+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371709063640822450" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: The Booktraveler Rent-a-car on the Antelope Island Causeway over Great Salt Lake</span></span><br /><br />I turned off the highway between Odgen and Salt Lake City, and headed west through a suburban box store wasteland of ubiquitous Wal-Marts, Home Depots and Big K's to reach the park entrance (stopping at a dollar store along the way buy a towel). After paying the modest $9 day fee, I continued on across the desolate causeway that joins the island to the mainland.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_l-NXgV0iIqGifK3ow3gee6gx9YHbg5RmNzcTONZniiX7EsWa1FLcey5EIywphrys9ewwshzVYxQirw_5cl2_1nhyToI89utNnvqZ7HgErP_YFmzePcqQZ3BCGQeWy7EY7wnXySqLOqZQ/s1600-h/Antelope+Island+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 549px; height: 411px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_l-NXgV0iIqGifK3ow3gee6gx9YHbg5RmNzcTONZniiX7EsWa1FLcey5EIywphrys9ewwshzVYxQirw_5cl2_1nhyToI89utNnvqZ7HgErP_YFmzePcqQZ3BCGQeWy7EY7wnXySqLOqZQ/s320/Antelope+Island+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371718826034360322" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Antelope Island rises from Great Salt Lake</span>.<br /><br />It's an area that's hard to describe. Obscenely hot and completely devoid of trees, Antelope Island rises like a specter from the lake, whose waters have the appearance of liquid mercury. Getting out into the stupefying heat to take a couple of photos, I had distinct impression of what it would be like on Mars during early terraforming. This was even more true when I stopped at the "beach" to take a dip, or a float, as the case may be.<br /><br />The waters of Great Salt Lake have a salinity content 4-5 times higher on average than the world's oceans, due to constant evaporation of the mineral filled waters that feed it. From the oppressive heat of the parking lot, it was a 200 yard death march across the blistering desert sands to reach the mercury-like water. A sparse crowd of fellow travelers walked back and forth across the burning expanse.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjue8WkcxhtI7FdNtqHMJ9qKz2fX6JxlRjhM4_nYjDvwejZrzoi4_CdHaL6IgtkjuZh4fJxzwwSqlYl9qaYabtleAguqhj7FwedY59ddREGVTcb-tij8LKs2_CQe-zEesdz21loZQfJJxIv/s1600-h/Walk+to+the+Beach+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 573px; height: 180px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjue8WkcxhtI7FdNtqHMJ9qKz2fX6JxlRjhM4_nYjDvwejZrzoi4_CdHaL6IgtkjuZh4fJxzwwSqlYl9qaYabtleAguqhj7FwedY59ddREGVTcb-tij8LKs2_CQe-zEesdz21loZQfJJxIv/s320/Walk+to+the+Beach+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371709071871859250" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >Above: joining the 200 yard death march across the blistering san</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">d down to the water's edge.</span></span><br /><br />Upon finally reaching the "beach", the smell of briny decay was too much for some, who immediately began the trip back across the sandy wasteland. I had come too far to turn back now. Millions upon millions of tiny black flies lightly covered the surface of the lake, here and there forming eddies of blackness where the currents converged. Besides the flies and the birds that fed on them and the crazy humans floating in the salty waters, the lake seemed completely devoid of life.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvu920hB1qD0M7plm7tHh6CRoA3GPQ2lkgP3YUO5Ug5GVsFCgKKhU89qXR2IqCDY-slVjpc3NBGIfCUNM3hLMorehnoiZwRSsqSJlJNTPSLUhgwLwM9DBjZ-vUoGQD73sBULa8BLukC6Kl/s1600-h/Swimming+in+GSL+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 568px; height: 145px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvu920hB1qD0M7plm7tHh6CRoA3GPQ2lkgP3YUO5Ug5GVsFCgKKhU89qXR2IqCDY-slVjpc3NBGIfCUNM3hLMorehnoiZwRSsqSJlJNTPSLUhgwLwM9DBjZ-vUoGQD73sBULa8BLukC6Kl/s320/Swimming+in+GSL+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371709085816765618" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Great Salt Lake. Surreal swimming for those brave enough to journey across 200 yards of scorching desert sand and into the tepid, fly covered waters</span></span>.<br /><br />You had to wade out 60 or 70 yards to get deep enough to lift your feet. The top layer of water down to about three feet was extremely warm, the layer below a good 20 degrees colder. Reaching the appropriate depth I laid back, spread my arms wide, lifted my legs and floated as effortlessly as a corpse below the scorching, stagnant air on the surface of a sea of flies. It was a unique experience to say the least.<br /><br />The cool freshwater showers back at the parking lot were a welcome relief after the shimmering 200 yard death march back from the water's edge. I was crusted from head to toe with salt causing every small cut on my body to burn slightly. I had wanted to float in Great Salt Lake since I was a kid, seeing it done in a National Geographic photo many years ago. It was getting late and as I crossed the burning hot parking lot back to the car, I felt sublimely satisfied, believe it or not, by the entire unearthly experience. I would definitely do it again, probably in April or October.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7b7yAZU_Pd67HaXziZhQHP4n_8q-U68iE66kqvpA9yX9telyq6HEZd8ULn0YtSsFen313KY154XoYPW_goyCqQuG4pWfeRI8zS5H5YseSqNrdVcFuizA9n3i9ih8qF-qjKFN1fUtgJ6DA/s1600-h/Central+Book+Exchange+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 180px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7b7yAZU_Pd67HaXziZhQHP4n_8q-U68iE66kqvpA9yX9telyq6HEZd8ULn0YtSsFen313KY154XoYPW_goyCqQuG4pWfeRI8zS5H5YseSqNrdVcFuizA9n3i9ih8qF-qjKFN1fUtgJ6DA/s320/Central+Book+Exchange+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371709052418661346" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgadIyOE8RcWOuKyCzqAZZHxlO5jRZwh_w0yavDt7D4ZJSxc2tmMI3xrNwC3vHQx9oovHHVd2B0Q-uC1seu2t1aeuqNdmLKvJkW88AriO-wu9j7emh-Y2qpSRzDkpl8KpqbQMN_CfdYR4Cw/s1600-h/Central+Book+Exchange+Window+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgadIyOE8RcWOuKyCzqAZZHxlO5jRZwh_w0yavDt7D4ZJSxc2tmMI3xrNwC3vHQx9oovHHVd2B0Q-uC1seu2t1aeuqNdmLKvJkW88AriO-wu9j7emh-Y2qpSRzDkpl8KpqbQMN_CfdYR4Cw/s320/Central+Book+Exchange+Window+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371709095290635954" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Central Book Exchange, Salt lake City, UT.</span></span><br /><br />Moving on I reached Salt Lake City in late afternoon. The State Capitol Building gleamed high on Capitol Hill against the backdrop of the nearby Wasatch range. I stopped by the Central Book Exchange in the Sugarhouse district south of downtown in the hopes of finding something unique to read. Unfortunately, this well known reader's delight of a store had already shut down for the evening. Looking in the window at some of the great titles on display, I pondered what could have been.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-weVz2jI-xCBS7gKQf0r8NnfFbYD6WTITYYTywo0fGUoDxDB4Ts3fvO6hDvbuw5OwjS5S82HodVX4emS3Iu6leycIbiFnL7TEdOozwTTvoh_nr5uDAljYiAolKXiz0BQCZljHMDwPG9qI/s1600-h/Mormon+Tabernacle+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-weVz2jI-xCBS7gKQf0r8NnfFbYD6WTITYYTywo0fGUoDxDB4Ts3fvO6hDvbuw5OwjS5S82HodVX4emS3Iu6leycIbiFnL7TEdOozwTTvoh_nr5uDAljYiAolKXiz0BQCZljHMDwPG9qI/s320/Mormon+Tabernacle+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371710269807729890" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjrDil9oJyEb69THqJq6lW2n3GlscaWs8LfP5fktX-G5ClkQqoxqY6vnVo8Vu5OlVkBgpei-OfDzj9Us6eoJS3_fkraCFeP8JJH3IDgKHYSQR8xwMA1yDfcx92XE-06ApXnsmxFHqLL4W/s1600-h/Mormon+Tabernacle+Take+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFjrDil9oJyEb69THqJq6lW2n3GlscaWs8LfP5fktX-G5ClkQqoxqY6vnVo8Vu5OlVkBgpei-OfDzj9Us6eoJS3_fkraCFeP8JJH3IDgKHYSQR8xwMA1yDfcx92XE-06ApXnsmxFHqLL4W/s320/Mormon+Tabernacle+Take+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371710277152423042" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: two views of the Mormon Tabernacle, centerpiece of the Church of Latter Day Saints' city-like complex.</span></span><br /><br />Before leaving town I had to stop by the Mormon Tabernacle. The Church of Latter Day Saints complex is right in the middle of town, just below the state capitol building. I took a leisurely stroll around the famed tabernacle, as well as the smaller church and convention hall on the western end of the building. I met more than a few extremely friendly, broadly smiling people wearing name tags from all over the world who were more than willing to answer <span style="font-style: italic;">any </span>questions I had, and even a few I didn't have, about the church.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCUotn8-wA6jwsspIsOEVwMPFVPwazGiQic_2H_MfrITfMhP8iHYUiZrJtXZOd510Z6ztfJDubyiB7PZ3depuOOJqVPH6jvhPxHsrRZuGoxk1upganc2_FCWuI0VKV5wGdfLsWYUXpZBf9/s1600-h/State+Capitol+UT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 560px; height: 248px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCUotn8-wA6jwsspIsOEVwMPFVPwazGiQic_2H_MfrITfMhP8iHYUiZrJtXZOd510Z6ztfJDubyiB7PZ3depuOOJqVPH6jvhPxHsrRZuGoxk1upganc2_FCWuI0VKV5wGdfLsWYUXpZBf9/s320/State+Capitol+UT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371710284504731650" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Utah State Capitol building in the late afternoon sun.</span></span><br /><br />Leaving the tabernacle, I walked back through the sprawling highrise business office complex of the church before heading up to catch the evening view from the top of Capitol Hill. As the sun set over Great Salt Lake Desert to the west, the late afternoon panorama was stunning. It truly is a beautiful and unique city in a great location.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNt7XNo6B-Ik-8UMnsX26EKZ5sN2Uba2fGq0mfoEIkW_Hr7mWVVzGZwRrSbnvIkwyV4X0cxZunwJACBISlrxsPmsIzsf75f8sUWXCnfFCWVkangUBdOti5SBvd5f-W_c9PIltGKCGb9PUR/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+View+1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNt7XNo6B-Ik-8UMnsX26EKZ5sN2Uba2fGq0mfoEIkW_Hr7mWVVzGZwRrSbnvIkwyV4X0cxZunwJACBISlrxsPmsIzsf75f8sUWXCnfFCWVkangUBdOti5SBvd5f-W_c9PIltGKCGb9PUR/s320/Capitol+Hill+View+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371710292958052066" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipP0pm65r0zgsO6Xn8sAPRScb5pxAtx23hx-81myfso-hAKJh8osMEK1oAV4Xmn8XctD6sx96726cm1QdY11X4h6VbvO9Q_cuGXoa9a1ZfxLMmsc2AuNxRvuSwDiffPg8RhdkXlasIyngB/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+View+2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipP0pm65r0zgsO6Xn8sAPRScb5pxAtx23hx-81myfso-hAKJh8osMEK1oAV4Xmn8XctD6sx96726cm1QdY11X4h6VbvO9Q_cuGXoa9a1ZfxLMmsc2AuNxRvuSwDiffPg8RhdkXlasIyngB/s320/Capitol+Hill+View+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371710304818461810" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: two views from the top of Capitol Hill, Salt Lake City, UT.</span></span><br /><br />I would like to return when I have more time. In the meantime, I loaded up on tacos and a couple of Dos Equis ambers up by the university and headed south through Provo before shacking up for the night at a local Econolodge ($48) at the intersection of Interstate 15 and highway 6.<br /><br />Tomorrow, it's on to Moab Utah and Arches National Park. From there it's back through the Rockies with a stop in Colorado Springs before flying out of Denver to Portland, Oregon to sample the bookstores and byways of the great northwest. Join me, won't you?<br /><br />Until my next post<br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">-Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-40402167461164241202009-08-12T18:21:00.000-07:002009-08-15T16:08:51.340-07:00The Bear Essentials and Jackson's Hole<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL1IZ5S_dslpig7HcYq8EDJhoVUXMdmTGF2W5ScxdlAEkk9_9NGYcEfWNacSbCBQ9SqAhW5FzQP5DqLvhkl4LzJGR9dm81RTiLI5uPiDOs1urgcKnepUbiUUVt1XHYF57hXJQSnxwbWCwf/s1600-h/Morning+at+Jenny+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL1IZ5S_dslpig7HcYq8EDJhoVUXMdmTGF2W5ScxdlAEkk9_9NGYcEfWNacSbCBQ9SqAhW5FzQP5DqLvhkl4LzJGR9dm81RTiLI5uPiDOs1urgcKnepUbiUUVt1XHYF57hXJQSnxwbWCwf/s320/Morning+at+Jenny+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370320148295811650" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGeXAvuJk6xr_y3l8jdU8j6zdVX_eWJKdCUGYk5K7sZpyuSNNhwNqHRTnPpPQTJlQzTxgPqm5RydK3kbhKvSneE_hx83qHBx68v2CkyvoAuIas54XXMk4itP9Ud5Y4AvnB4trfInkcwK9/s1600-h/View+from+Inspiration+Point+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFGeXAvuJk6xr_y3l8jdU8j6zdVX_eWJKdCUGYk5K7sZpyuSNNhwNqHRTnPpPQTJlQzTxgPqm5RydK3kbhKvSneE_hx83qHBx68v2CkyvoAuIas54XXMk4itP9Ud5Y4AvnB4trfInkcwK9/s320/View+from+Inspiration+Point+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370320150808462578" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Morning over Jenny Lake. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: Inspiration Point above Jenny Lake</span></span><br /><br />Another early morning. Per my request, the lodge desk called at 5:00 AM. It was all I could do to force myself creaking out of bed. I had prepared everything the night before: backpack, clothes, hat, glasses, camera, food. Without switching on a light I was out the door and driving before I had time to fully wake up.<br /><br />The first signs of light were gently illuminating the east, giving the Grand Tetons an other-worldly glow against the western night sky. Stars blazed bright over the jagged peaks, fading by degrees as I headed toward the starting point for my morning hike, a half hour south along the empty highway.<br /><br />As I drew closer to Jenny Lake, the formidable range of peaks grew in stature until Grand Teton alone reigned supreme over earth and sky. Parking at the Jenny Lake trail head, I began a fast paced march following the trail around the south end of the lake. The blue-violet glow of morning filled the eastern sky, while only the most stubborn stars remained visible over the towering peaks above.<br /><br />It's a relatively easy two-mile hike from the parking lot to the Cascade Valley trail. Most people use the $10 round trip ferry across the lake to avoid the hike. As I crossed the bridge over Cottonwood Creek, the ferry sat silent and motionless in the early morning light; the calm before the storm. In a few hours it would be packed full of hikers, tourists and day-trippers boating over to enjoy the splendors of Hidden Falls and Inspiration point, but for now, I was blissfully alone.<br /><br />Reaching the far side of the lake, the impending sunrise mirrored to perfection in the tranquil waters. As I approached the Cascade Valley trail, the steep moraine abutting the left side of the trail opened to a vast valley piercing through the rocky peaks while the sounds of nearby cataracts echoed through the pines.<br /><br />Stopping to take in the morning air, I melded into the surroundings, becoming part of a seamless, timeless nature that enveloped from all sides. Continuing along in this exalted state, I was pondering the lofty ideals of Thoreau and Whitman when I came around a corner and nearly soiled my drawers.<br /><br />There, not 20 feet ahead, tooth and claw, square in the middle of the trail, stood the ass end of a full grown <span style="font-style: italic;">Ursus Americanus</span>, more popularly known as the American Black Bear. <span style="font-style: italic;">Where's your Thoreau now</span>, I thought.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNXpKEZE7a0SoeEj-iqTc3TtUblmwiUyeZMqhTT1Shc0Tj1W1-tNLeTR_muRCq6yIanDE8kG-0J9V28m0mrFUQsEh30z6cJOhqk70CxEcScgCKI7re7CR8gIeR_P2S573DxsaO-xJe9RdP/s1600-h/Bear+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNXpKEZE7a0SoeEj-iqTc3TtUblmwiUyeZMqhTT1Shc0Tj1W1-tNLeTR_muRCq6yIanDE8kG-0J9V28m0mrFUQsEh30z6cJOhqk70CxEcScgCKI7re7CR8gIeR_P2S573DxsaO-xJe9RdP/s320/Bear+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370320159299730322" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoHrnsSk4RmZeyKwAjsa3JHxjuJMt2SSWQHaN3WgDkISCgUaE5D_VSDcKMylerKLmygsznO8QvrdEUfS09QD4zEk7nOQ04vL37JGrArNfu4GiVbolzPQINcO3SbVEHhc2emyGIR5L3ybU/s1600-h/Pica+Cascade+Trail+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQoHrnsSk4RmZeyKwAjsa3JHxjuJMt2SSWQHaN3WgDkISCgUaE5D_VSDcKMylerKLmygsznO8QvrdEUfS09QD4zEk7nOQ04vL37JGrArNfu4GiVbolzPQINcO3SbVEHhc2emyGIR5L3ybU/s320/Pica+Cascade+Trail+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370320169823942258" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Ursus Americanus, my friend the Brown Bear looking for breakfast</span><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: The much less frightening and adorably Chinchilla-esque Pika. Don't you just want to cuddle!</span></span><br /><br />I tried to recall the "bear essentials" I had read twenty or thirty times around the park. My favorite: if the bear charges you, lay down and play dead. Not easy to do when you're screaming and writhing while being eaten alive. Luckily, this bear seemed to be just as astounded by my sudden appearance as I was by he, she, it.<br /><br />I quickly checked the bushes for any bear cubs, handy advice I had learned from watching Marlin Perkins on Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Bear cubs pretty much assured instant death by mastication, that much I knew.<br /><br />While my brain continued to work feverishly through a foggy list of recommended actions and counteractions, the bear simply turned off the trail, walked up the hill, turned left, and pausing to to stare briefly, crossed no more than 20 yards above me. A clever ploy, I thought, to sneak up and eat me from behind.<br /><br />Luckily, I was able to snap a photo during the melee. Don't let the fuzziness fool you...I was steady as a rock. I quickly moved on, checking to my rear every tenth of a second or so to make sure I wasn't being followed for desert. Less than a minute later, still thinking Bear, I nearly dove into the lake when a Long-tailed Weasel leapt from a boulder nearby and scurried up the trail.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0R-WYKyhElKHGJ2VyjbeTzkArQOkcjLOHaHNRf-cNjpTgRjNN9QNbNH9MUja7SSCANgKwc8O1oAuWtxxz5OD0iNTFjbxXAc_fWr9xDwllS1hZoyWzXIQ7t_ENWKZXmJPLK62J_d-dZpAq/s1600-h/Grand+Teton+Mt+Owen+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0R-WYKyhElKHGJ2VyjbeTzkArQOkcjLOHaHNRf-cNjpTgRjNN9QNbNH9MUja7SSCANgKwc8O1oAuWtxxz5OD0iNTFjbxXAc_fWr9xDwllS1hZoyWzXIQ7t_ENWKZXmJPLK62J_d-dZpAq/s320/Grand+Teton+Mt+Owen+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321075349597410" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA3fAnTzXk3jPMFgrwAeUns6H6Qi6MPZ_0bbJM38ERYXeHNPbDnNZdPzwxWY6pPzqfhwnpFexZIWOL67XgUpr_x1gSjg_fP9lfpqMbTA9vowHGmrIWkXBvwHgK7OYMccZ52xaDf1Zhemf5/s1600-h/Jenny+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA3fAnTzXk3jPMFgrwAeUns6H6Qi6MPZ_0bbJM38ERYXeHNPbDnNZdPzwxWY6pPzqfhwnpFexZIWOL67XgUpr_x1gSjg_fP9lfpqMbTA9vowHGmrIWkXBvwHgK7OYMccZ52xaDf1Zhemf5/s320/Jenny+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321832696829570" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Grand Teton (middle) and Owen Peak (right)<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: View from Jenny Lake</span><br /><br />As the sun finally breached the mountains to the east, I reached the Cascade Valley trail and began my ascent to the sublimely beautiful Hidden Falls. From there I continued up another couple of miles past the inspirational views of Inspiration Point into the beautiful high mountain meadows of Cascade Valley.<br /><br />No photo can do justice to the soaring beauty of this pristine mountain canyon, framed on one side by Mt. Owen and Grand Teton, and on the other by the soaring cliffs of Mt. Saint John. I was all alone in dazzling morning sun, able to take in the beauty with only the gentle whisper of distant winds, nearby streams and thoughts of bears to keep me company.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3nBl0QyC8TJfw6BpoItUxLGDnQzjvYoNa01CGbxXmV6vtnVLjMUmg1A5OoEOESJYhjKd704n1X7EWp_-_L2NfBj6KJFVd_IBJfQfWYKzEBuukig-AUz4HyR8uAMi5bVch2gxtrMM905A/s1600-h/Cascade+Valley+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEif3nBl0QyC8TJfw6BpoItUxLGDnQzjvYoNa01CGbxXmV6vtnVLjMUmg1A5OoEOESJYhjKd704n1X7EWp_-_L2NfBj6KJFVd_IBJfQfWYKzEBuukig-AUz4HyR8uAMi5bVch2gxtrMM905A/s320/Cascade+Valley+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370320171672721826" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YLFewbNhmvQeaXcU6WVHgGVtr_IQjUQK0whOCdW9XRgtM_jxN2Xw5AwPINz-p4KrjSM6MGowKaCvEB7oBkFniDh9gOfqwosAMBViSVqoOUQ0qYfJh49Qw7lqWfD62QPTOHoCSz1xP-Fb/s1600-h/Hidden+Falls+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 178px; height: 238px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_YLFewbNhmvQeaXcU6WVHgGVtr_IQjUQK0whOCdW9XRgtM_jxN2Xw5AwPINz-p4KrjSM6MGowKaCvEB7oBkFniDh9gOfqwosAMBViSVqoOUQ0qYfJh49Qw7lqWfD62QPTOHoCSz1xP-Fb/s320/Hidden+Falls+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321068179748930" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left</span>: Cascade Valley. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: Hidden Falls</span><br /><br />On my way down from Inspiration Point, I saw the first boat of the morning crossing over from the ferry dock. By mid-afternoon, the lower half of the trail would be as crowded as Central Park. I was well on my way back around the lake before the ferry arrived. I returned to the Lodge, checked out and was on my way to Jackson Hole, 35 miles to the south by 10:00 am. Awesome morning!<br /><br />Driving south through the beautiful, elongated buttes of the Snake River Valley, the Grand Tetons provide an ever changing vista of stunning peaks and valleys above the golden plains. Roughly twenty miles south of the Jenny Lake, the road begins the long decline into the storied valley of Jackson Hole.<br /><br />The town of Jackson, often mistakenly referred to as Jackson Hole, lies at the base of the valley, just in front of the venerable Storm King Mountain and ski resort. The commercial center of town is a beautifully stained and shellacked log cabin of a place garnished by towering stacks of bleached white Elk horns.<br /><br />This high-priced tourist and entertainment mecca is full of interesting local shops along with the usual suspects of trendy brand name stores and outlets. Like Gatlinburg, TN and Estes Park,CO, Jackson is the tourism capital of the region, offering plenty of distractions for those on their way to or from (or avoiding altogether) the parks.<br /><br />Nestled in along the main drag as you enter town from the north is <a href="http://valleybookstore.com/">Valley Bookstore</a>. This great new book indie offers a broad selection of general titles and an exceptional collection of Jackson Hole area history and authors (along with a few souvenirs to boot). Right in the heart of the main town, this gem of a store has been serving the good people living and passing through Jackson for 45 years! A true staple of the community.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlG7fhuRqb0tFRzwGjIT2LAksW1ld_j929F-4wZ0nbcAIcY5PaOUnPvSy9Y5FXclwT0AFOnFhy7Le8gVEShP2-dlY6qBYqDYF4bv_tXHw2NQDDtv6A16f2f2X3Jupk3UC8PAXhyphenhyphen-yVm9H/s1600-h/Book+Trader+Front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 222px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRlG7fhuRqb0tFRzwGjIT2LAksW1ld_j929F-4wZ0nbcAIcY5PaOUnPvSy9Y5FXclwT0AFOnFhy7Le8gVEShP2-dlY6qBYqDYF4bv_tXHw2NQDDtv6A16f2f2X3Jupk3UC8PAXhyphenhyphen-yVm9H/s320/Book+Trader+Front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321081554109346" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgCUeJUBccM0t5rRxg59ZtOU88DWCJiRaEu0lFs4B4QFx-lhEg9veyGTh3EWYGBps_jiBVzhs1Y1AUNdEJFzvpRcjZQZ11ImMTIauPRmCLtkI1oE2oRMQhus7S4Sg_kXAypqwtdVORTP2/s1600-h/Book+Trader+Interior+B+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgCUeJUBccM0t5rRxg59ZtOU88DWCJiRaEu0lFs4B4QFx-lhEg9veyGTh3EWYGBps_jiBVzhs1Y1AUNdEJFzvpRcjZQZ11ImMTIauPRmCLtkI1oE2oRMQhus7S4Sg_kXAypqwtdVORTP2/s320/Book+Trader+Interior+B+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321816727600866" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Jackson Hole Book Trader</span></span><br /><br />Speaking of staples, continuing south out of the tourist center and into the local shopping district along West Broadway lies the oldest used book store in town, The Jackson Hole Book Trader. Operating continuously since 1978, this fabulous store offers in an incredible selection of vintage books on local area subjects and by local authors along with a great selection of general used titles suplemented with new local interest books and guides.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje3zsv7QtWP3LmpR4vjXP36IVE4dDPfvpoM6HiMUb7FGGY2TpqAg0_ohMBxY7V2WVHAp9DyFN_6w8YjqZob6SR0Mb25cU_Vt6KlwHEYPq7V2EM6TFaG8JOqdxTdPIz4aSctTXq3QjD_2_h/s1600-h/Book+Trader+Cinty+%26+Lucy+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 281px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje3zsv7QtWP3LmpR4vjXP36IVE4dDPfvpoM6HiMUb7FGGY2TpqAg0_ohMBxY7V2WVHAp9DyFN_6w8YjqZob6SR0Mb25cU_Vt6KlwHEYPq7V2EM6TFaG8JOqdxTdPIz4aSctTXq3QjD_2_h/s320/Book+Trader+Cinty+%26+Lucy+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321077329641698" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoeNIuV4SerauoOv9GHtrhzYBQp900-g3FDaUMca0UHGw2qFQW-ZF4AZnUFLElmOJesMMwy_-sBIyfLJjWJSIIRZJAZLCom5wnaJyygYTQosMrxfW8deXdRrmwZeLniLQ0Kxyo5hz8ewc/s1600-h/Book+Trader+Interior+A+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 277px; height: 208px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdoeNIuV4SerauoOv9GHtrhzYBQp900-g3FDaUMca0UHGw2qFQW-ZF4AZnUFLElmOJesMMwy_-sBIyfLJjWJSIIRZJAZLCom5wnaJyygYTQosMrxfW8deXdRrmwZeLniLQ0Kxyo5hz8ewc/s320/Book+Trader+Interior+A+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321091140106850" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Left:</span> Jackson Hole Book Trader co-owner Cindy Parker with Lucy the Store Havanese. Annie, the store lab, was on hiatus that day.</span><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"> <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right</span>: inside Jackson Hole Book Trader</span></span><br /><br />Mother-daughter team Cindy and Alisson Parker took over the store in February '08 and have done a great job revamping the store from top to bottom. With an expanding number of titles, exhibits by local artists, free coffee and chocolates, it's a great way to wile away an afternoon or two while adding to your collection of books.<br /><br />With daylight starting to wain, I headed south out of Jackson to cover some miles before dark. I was headed south to Utah, to the city of Brigham Young and the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.<br /><br />Continuing from Jackson on highway 89 down and through the beautiful Grand Canyon of the Snake River, it was obvious that this beautiful stretch of river must have been the Holy Grail of rafting. There were literally hundreds of rafts being being towed around on trailers and school bus loads of pre- and post-rafting enthusiasts filling both lanes of the highway and every turnoff along the way.<br /><br />With night approching, I pulled in to the first quality eatery I spotted below the canyon, just on the edge of Alpine, WY. This was a auspiscious decision. The dinner I enjoyed at Brenthoven's Restaurant at the Nordic Inn was one of the highlights of the trip.<br /><br />Sitting outside, enjoying a pre-meal Stoli Martini "up" with olives as the sun set behind the surrounding hills, all was right with the world. The pumpkin soup was out of this world and the freshed grilled trout main course tasted as if it had just been pulled from the river.<br /><br />Tired and satiated I headed into town to find a cheap place to sleep. I chose the Three Rivers Motel, mostly because it was there and met my price criteria of under $60 a night. An aging, bearded and distinctly alcoholic biker with a tatoo on his neck checked me in with a rasping wheeze.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdeqAkaF4Dca037qe3iHtc4f6DbElLBtFJ6tAx0HZhgI8PGBiNRyIfJSsTe4QimHMuAJ1FHYSUNQH2HVrjbt-YUrqOXRGVxrewJb451YW9z-Gp8YYRP95oK7MErytLCdtzfcKHFknRBfW/s1600-h/Three+Rivers+Motel+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 483px; height: 178px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwdeqAkaF4Dca037qe3iHtc4f6DbElLBtFJ6tAx0HZhgI8PGBiNRyIfJSsTe4QimHMuAJ1FHYSUNQH2HVrjbt-YUrqOXRGVxrewJb451YW9z-Gp8YYRP95oK7MErytLCdtzfcKHFknRBfW/s320/Three+Rivers+Motel+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370321827772147138" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">The Three River Motel...SWEET!</span></span><br /><br />The L-shaped courtyard was full of Harleys, Pickups and a few lone mini-vans parked outside the doors with an interesting group of what appeared to be ex-prison inmates milling about with cans of Pabst two rooms over. The room decor had obviously remained unchanged for decades if not centuries, with cowboy silhouette shades on the lamps and and a nasty velvet painting of impossible mountains and waterfalls adorning the paneled wall above the bed.<br /><br />The carpets were badly stained from I-don't-want-to-know-what, but the room was quiet and comfortable enough and I was too tired to care. Tomorrow I would swim in Great Salt Lake, striking off #894 of my 1000 things to do before I die. It had been a long day, and already the Tetons were fading into distant memory...with the exception of the bear, who appeared two or three times in my dreams, once wearing a top hat.<br /><br />Next Post: Fast Times in the Land of Mormon.<br /><br />Until then,<br />-Cheers!Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-90644807209556420432009-08-09T08:17:00.000-07:002009-08-10T18:17:25.901-07:00Yellowstoned<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HIm-wH7D5kesXvOVJcxeeZ6ArZscmpFvhNexr09T4n0B9EaFXJMQUSEa4UASzi9ewU64l5D2ATf0NFrxzPX5UYgrcvclsDtDcDCAux6UAOXM6eGl5I7qSFvCDBXvq77e3xvLSgKzrT5z/s1600-h/A+Beautiful+Teton+Morning+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 507px; height: 132px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8HIm-wH7D5kesXvOVJcxeeZ6ArZscmpFvhNexr09T4n0B9EaFXJMQUSEa4UASzi9ewU64l5D2ATf0NFrxzPX5UYgrcvclsDtDcDCAux6UAOXM6eGl5I7qSFvCDBXvq77e3xvLSgKzrT5z/s320/A+Beautiful+Teton+Morning+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368368204994434050" border="0" /></a>
<br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">I love the smell of Tetons in the morning...</span></span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Oh what a beauuuuutiful Moooooorrrrniiinnng! (Rogers and Hammerstein...anyone...anyone?).</span>
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">
<br />I got up early to catch the morning sun. It was a couple of hundred yards from the cabin through the surprising chill of the morning to the observation area in front of the lodge. Shorts and sandals were a bad choice but it was too late.</span> <span style="font-family:georgia;">Coming around the corner into full view of the morning, the Tetons seemed close enough to touch.
<br />
<br />The sun, still low on the eastern horizon, illuminated the mountains in pastel shades of pink, blue and orange framed by the green and yellow meadow below and luminescent blue sky above. A thin band of low clouds hovered broken half way up the mountains, providing an even more breathtaking spectacle. This truly is one of the most beautiful places on earth.</span>
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<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">After a bountiful breakfast at the Pioneer Grill, a cool retro diner located in the lodge and decorated with historic photos of the park, it was time to head north for an early visit to nearby Yellowstone National Park, ostensibly to beat the crowds.</span> <span style="font-family:georgia;">No sooner had I joyfully hit the road when my enthusiasm was instantly quashed by signs of impending doom. Road work next 45 miles the temporary orange sign read. 45 MILES? Are you kidding me? That was well into the park! Well, perhaps it was as simple as a closed shoulder here, a pothole there. They wouldn't do major work during absolute peak tourist season, I reasoned, as I approached a line of stopped cars.</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">I couldn't see him, but I knew my nemesis the sign bearer was somewhere up ahead at the front of the line of stationary cars, holding his red STOP sign, chewing and laughing. How could they, I thought. I mean, the road from the Tetons to Yellowstone? IN LATE JULY? Didn't they know I was going to be traveling here today?</span> <span style="font-family:georgia;">I turned the engine off and waited in disgust as the minutes ticked by.
<br />
<br />Eventually, the usual line of refugees began to pass by from the other side. Five minutes or so later, I could see movement up ahead and started up the engine. I cast a wary eye at the sign bearer as I slowly passed. He seemed quite affable, bearded and waving at bright faced youngsters who waved back from station wagons, SUV's, RV's and sedans. Of course, I hated him nonetheless.</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Being near the back of the line, I couldn't see much beyond the ass-end of the mid-size SUV immediately ahead with Utah plates. Once again, the ubiquitous machines of highway destruction and rebuilding hovered about ominously as we made our way through the construction zone at speeds approaching 10 miles an hour.</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">OK, I thought, as we emerged past the small white pickup with the flashing yellow light on top, getting ready to take the next band of refugees through the other direction. Perhaps that was the worst, and if so, a 45 minute delay to our ultimate destination is no big deal. An hour and a half later, I plodded along behind a line of cars doing 20 mph through the entrance to Yellowstone National Park, normally a half hour drive.
<br />
<br />I had come too far to turn back, but was now in such a dour mood I couldn't possibly imagine enjoying the park.</span> <span style="font-family:georgia;">I had almost decided to go the other way through the park loop to avoid the mind-numbing traffic jams (<span style="font-style: italic;">DAMN YOU AMERICAN RECOVERY AND REINVESTMENT ACT!)</span>. Luckily, after a quick, pressure relieving pit-stop along the shores of one of the park's serene lakes, I decided to continue towards Old Faithful and the major park sights.
<br />
<br />Traffic had lightened, the scenery was beautiful, and I quickly adjusted to a quasi-normal state of mind, more or less.</span> <span style="font-family:georgia;">My heart beat faster as the famed Old Faithful approached. I had never before experienced this icon of American tourism and looked forward to walking the nearby boardwalks to peer down through colorful geysers into the bowels of the earth.
<br />
<br />I could see columns of steamy mist rising through the trees and my excitement grew as the road widened to four lanes.</span> <span style="font-family:georgia;">As I entered the Old Faithful parking lot however, pristine wilderness instantly gave way to vast and paved tourist wasteland.
<br />
<br />Tour buses and RV's jammed in around acres of parked cars and SUV's. Crushing throngs of enthusiasts from the world over poured from the parking lot into a distinctly unpicturesque collection of buildings bordered by new construction (what more could they possibly be building?). The whole thing seemed distinctly out of place.</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">After passing through a mobbed main street of souvenir stores and overpriced eateries housed in oversize rust red clapboard structures, I came to the comparatively small ranger station stationed midway between the more beautiful and historic Old Faithful Inn and Old Faithful Lodge. Between the awarding of "Yellowstone Junior Rangers" patches to hoards of screaming kids, I was able to push close enough to a ranger to find out that the next performance of Old Faithful was expected in approximately one hour, give or take ten minutes.</span>
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<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Escaping back out into the light of day I made my way over to the steaming cauldron. Metal benches 5-deep lined the parking lot side of the geyser. People were already sitting down to secure a good view of this natural display, still an hour away. I escaped to the relative solitude of the boardwalks. These interesting footpaths lead around Old Faithful to other smoldering geysers and boiling cauldrons in the immediate vic</span><span style="font-family: georgia;font-size:100%;" >inity, providing interesting and welcome relief from the heaving mass of humanity near the entrance.
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<br /></span> <a style="font-family: georgia;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fYt5MuZ-d5ap8TyI818AVE9kJLtsjczXpDnOHawtvCunCPowr5y0MrsLTB9qBdvHig5J_7ZbfwCc2xAc0P4zhIxnZxIOoPww_Pl9_JzyZELhUK35q2G5iLXZ8OV68ZwZ-KgNvBnxGi_y/s1600-h/Old+Faithful+First+Steating+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-fYt5MuZ-d5ap8TyI818AVE9kJLtsjczXpDnOHawtvCunCPowr5y0MrsLTB9qBdvHig5J_7ZbfwCc2xAc0P4zhIxnZxIOoPww_Pl9_JzyZELhUK35q2G5iLXZ8OV68ZwZ-KgNvBnxGi_y/s320/Old+Faithful+First+Steating+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368364711878268530" border="0" /></a><a style="font-family: georgia;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDLxNesHmzfklkMaDU1RrMK-fVJL1F9eHKYPWCldGaWtdLxx0WB5jMEqwPQkZBRoiBixWA0uqHQAecXww5upJcOX0nvUSF1fx6Lz6TA3gtPRLTaGsfr8NnBIE8pzrXUiw0-RUHC_W15oW/s1600-h/Old+Faithful+Burst+Forth+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 168px; height: 225px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDLxNesHmzfklkMaDU1RrMK-fVJL1F9eHKYPWCldGaWtdLxx0WB5jMEqwPQkZBRoiBixWA0uqHQAecXww5upJcOX0nvUSF1fx6Lz6TA3gtPRLTaGsfr8NnBIE8pzrXUiw0-RUHC_W15oW/s320/Old+Faithful+Burst+Forth+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368364725424570546" border="0" /></a><a style="font-family: georgia;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqS2QDCnsP0NNMePgYWV-tEhyC6ITe8i_N0w65drabKArM0IBnQn-AsyroWMdizI222-Rkj8oL6SC4Crixwa09Xp8PJFMkllZrBwvAMxE0RvWADQJjz6U6Ai3JwbBfTBmzGqAfHxzvSOGI/s1600-h/Historic+Old+Faithful+Inn+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 238px; height: 178px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqS2QDCnsP0NNMePgYWV-tEhyC6ITe8i_N0w65drabKArM0IBnQn-AsyroWMdizI222-Rkj8oL6SC4Crixwa09Xp8PJFMkllZrBwvAMxE0RvWADQJjz6U6Ai3JwbBfTBmzGqAfHxzvSOGI/s320/Historic+Old+Faithful+Inn+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368364730845133842" border="0" /></a><a style="font-family: georgia;" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPNTs_7fYPVj0dCM3D66-G9gsjWNpFqgSsTAIr_QLcIcPGL-cLtDigb3KTiASEcH87rPqVX2ocw_jaBVwI7o6YPXLWZZxD_x9rbCkS9nkiXytLx1dE_WNibnVbEXtC2Vo-05vlJanXyWz/s1600-h/Inside+Old+Faithful+Inn+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 131px; height: 175px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCPNTs_7fYPVj0dCM3D66-G9gsjWNpFqgSsTAIr_QLcIcPGL-cLtDigb3KTiASEcH87rPqVX2ocw_jaBVwI7o6YPXLWZZxD_x9rbCkS9nkiXytLx1dE_WNibnVbEXtC2Vo-05vlJanXyWz/s320/Inside+Old+Faithful+Inn+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368366502870554322" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-style: italic; font-family: georgia;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">
<br />Above Left: </span>Old Faithful, third seating. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Above Right: </span>Old Faithful, third showing.
<br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Below Left:</span> Historic Old Faithful Inn. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Below Right:</span> Historic OFI Lobby.</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">As show time approached, I headed back near the entrance to experience the full majesty and magnitude of the main event. With just ten </span><span style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" >minutes to go, the benches </span><span style="font-family:georgia;">were packed. Behind them stood lines of spectators four and five deep, the level 200 yard walk from the parking lot being the most exercise many of them had apparently had in years.</span>
<br />
<br /><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:donotoptimizeforbrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} </style><span style="font-family:georgia;">Every twenty or thirty seconds the famed geyser would warm up, spitting steaming surges a few feet in the air, each eliciting a roar of exaltation from the crowd. A half mile down the valley, a huge geyser burst into the sky, sending boiling water one hundred feet into the afternoon air with an loud hiss. The crowd swooned with delight. A minute or two later, another geyser just 200 yards away across the creek and behind a small berm burst into the sky, the two together sending huge arching plumes high into the deep blue sky.</span> <p class="MsoNormal" style="font-family:georgia;"><span style="font-size:100%;">
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">Taking in these events, even your humble, jaded Booktraveler began to palpitate for the Main Event. There was no doubt that Old Faithful would put these nearby interlopers to shame. The hissing and gurgling became more pronounced. The steaming spit rising higher and more frequent, each causing the crowd to lifted their cameras in unison. At last the roiling cauldron erupted with a searing hiss into the sky.</span>
<br />
<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">The initial five to ten second burst shot up fifty or sixty feet. This was going to be good! It then immediately died down to about thirty feet where it hissed flaccidly a minute or two before dying back down to a steaming hole. The more virile geysers were still gushing in the distance with high, proud arches. I have to admit, I empathized with Old Faithful.</span>
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<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">After a quick murmur of disappointment, the crowd dispatched faster than an alcohol-free wedding. I headed to the venerable Old Faithful Inn for a Martini and sandwich before heading out to see the rest of the park. Once free of the Old Faithful "Historic District", the park quickly reverted to its natural splendor.</span></span></p><p face="georgia" class="MsoNormal">
<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHbnWUIYQ_asl57aoQYSclwFUNQ9EeA40uES9TF0uREL8sUvCV9zdLOKxKe3duNCGo5-J3UHVT3RRhFqEDYp-SESZrTQuMOt0iDYfl-bPOJkX-05iTDaM-_SL_oqoMtPpINjZDgdEIj82/s1600-h/Firehole+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 463px; height: 179px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVHbnWUIYQ_asl57aoQYSclwFUNQ9EeA40uES9TF0uREL8sUvCV9zdLOKxKe3duNCGo5-J3UHVT3RRhFqEDYp-SESZrTQuMOt0iDYfl-bPOJkX-05iTDaM-_SL_oqoMtPpINjZDgdEIj82/s320/Firehole+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368364736758577586" border="0" /></a></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Firehole Lake</span></span>
<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal">
<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:100%;"><span style="font-family:georgia;">I continued on, stopping to view the Midway Geyser Basin, the Hollywood-style boiling mud pools of Fountain Paint Pot, and the varied and interesting sights along the even more interestingly named Firehole Lake Drive. Yellowstone is a huge and ancient volcanic caldera. The hissing, steaming, roiling and boiling sights along the inner loop highway drive this point home beautifully.</span>
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<br /><span style="font-family:georgia;">The distinctly western landscape provides an extraordinary backdrop to these subterranean spectacles, with low, pine-covered mountains ringing expansive meadows and lush river valleys. Majestic Elk and the gigantic American Bison can be seen grazing the golden plains.</span></span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal">
<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEsNPEm3STAfLAfyRm7K97qu9sMjHTYtkmZEbSjlwygp0_Tp7byyvzw8pNiApppI0zr2HEKl7cl-JXIpaKonRXWBxnEAJVK3vc_uS7FUzcg3Aay5Thq-X4v-VltN-YtFvaOBtYTYWAm1VJ/s1600-h/YS+Buffalo+Roam+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 455px; height: 241px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEsNPEm3STAfLAfyRm7K97qu9sMjHTYtkmZEbSjlwygp0_Tp7byyvzw8pNiApppI0zr2HEKl7cl-JXIpaKonRXWBxnEAJVK3vc_uS7FUzcg3Aay5Thq-X4v-VltN-YtFvaOBtYTYWAm1VJ/s320/YS+Buffalo+Roam+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368366522392681474" border="0" /></a></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">The Locals</span></span>
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<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:100%;">Approaching the turnoff where the Firehole and Gibbon rivers converge to form the Madison River, I took a left and headed toward the west entrance of the park, through the beautiful Madison River Canyon to the town of West Yellowstone, Montana, just outside the park. This distinctly touristy but subdued town is home to the Bookworm, an extraordinary new and used book indie that is most definitely one of a kind.</span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal">
<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;font-family:georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3gzYwsa0GTYLgmVrlRRT4p3FujOa6W6ErC0typ1onbfv0YvCUgsiPyjqbGCA7N0kzVG0031w8_wDw3qq85HbRl18yi6ZXI-EhLttZ_E4gN1JBORtENL5rOw1N6BoyeTCKWfRNv5vPFPa/s1600-h/West+Yellowstone+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 436px; height: 158px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha3gzYwsa0GTYLgmVrlRRT4p3FujOa6W6ErC0typ1onbfv0YvCUgsiPyjqbGCA7N0kzVG0031w8_wDw3qq85HbRl18yi6ZXI-EhLttZ_E4gN1JBORtENL5rOw1N6BoyeTCKWfRNv5vPFPa/s320/West+Yellowstone+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368366529753962802" border="0" /></a></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">West Yellowstone, MT</span></span>
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<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:100%;">This decades old stalwart carries a tremendous selection of </span><span id="description-text" style="font-size:100%;">Yellowstone memorabilia dating from the 1880s through the 1950s, along with thousands of Haynes postcards. They feature an extraordinary collection of local interest titles, along with a great selection of rare and first editions, many signed by the author.</span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal">
<br /></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6FslV3D7LS0LykW6rRdCDXkQpqfhP7kmRfxgQyDpFDqWQfNE-MKSyAigJbraViWDteNTlfeT9VsRmWOuXCrBWRlmg2neYEmBhfzO0FHHfx6DqZX-PPEy7lpmw3QAQVe0Fj6Tv3RTOakZI/s1600-h/The+Bookworm+WY+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 172px; height: 230px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6FslV3D7LS0LykW6rRdCDXkQpqfhP7kmRfxgQyDpFDqWQfNE-MKSyAigJbraViWDteNTlfeT9VsRmWOuXCrBWRlmg2neYEmBhfzO0FHHfx6DqZX-PPEy7lpmw3QAQVe0Fj6Tv3RTOakZI/s320/The+Bookworm+WY+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368366532685198050" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAmv0ZJzni247aZ9Gkb35tDvtIIDZMInUoOpCxHGn5mx_GX1MXWzUqcylpTltgZUiy9BpODVmmyyRp8G0g-03GEgXsHZUhvNGTxUaXPbL3C4RCG2cjvUb7F3ZUiX-uWHIptX9RVQDPJ4-B/s1600-h/Bookworm+Int+B+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 229px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAmv0ZJzni247aZ9Gkb35tDvtIIDZMInUoOpCxHGn5mx_GX1MXWzUqcylpTltgZUiy9BpODVmmyyRp8G0g-03GEgXsHZUhvNGTxUaXPbL3C4RCG2cjvUb7F3ZUiX-uWHIptX9RVQDPJ4-B/s320/Bookworm+Int+B+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368367403760165682" border="0" /></a></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfuzQR-EUZ-wPOvzyb7RmuhnGqaLZ9BMsqwtpVyGCLnrLy6DIGpeo54XQ57WbGeNcLJTpvae2coFfvsPMXtJ_CQcyK6GCdv33LxFsHg5oHIK1V98-j2HY-tmz1OhRWHnfLt1W0k8Jf41V/s1600-h/Bookworm+Int+C+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 239px; height: 178px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitfuzQR-EUZ-wPOvzyb7RmuhnGqaLZ9BMsqwtpVyGCLnrLy6DIGpeo54XQ57WbGeNcLJTpvae2coFfvsPMXtJ_CQcyK6GCdv33LxFsHg5oHIK1V98-j2HY-tmz1OhRWHnfLt1W0k8Jf41V/s320/Bookworm+Int+C+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368367411550163090" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0_OtTUzT1z6-orwjIjW6oCmA8ePclyG-12JhsjO0t1Sm0Du_INu9S1o35nFewCcKqgywTmcycWZj1pQhX1HZ1mK0VvZE8XhOavj-l2ADhoZ0xAhiTE6mRgUkDRsFnbtGLyAGB2q6hDfc/s1600-h/Bookworm+Int+A+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 251px; height: 178px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic0_OtTUzT1z6-orwjIjW6oCmA8ePclyG-12JhsjO0t1Sm0Du_INu9S1o35nFewCcKqgywTmcycWZj1pQhX1HZ1mK0VvZE8XhOavj-l2ADhoZ0xAhiTE6mRgUkDRsFnbtGLyAGB2q6hDfc/s320/Bookworm+Int+A+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5368367400563143746" border="0" /></a></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Bookworm</span>, West Yellowstone, MT</span>
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<br /></span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><span id="description-text">Their 50,000 plus titles of new and used books is complimented by an extraordinarily cool local decor with lots of western/Yellowstone related pictures, posters and knickknacks. It's a great way to top off an afternoon, with plenty of colorful eateries and drinkeries nearby.</span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal">
<br /><span id="description-text"></span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal"><span id="description-text">After a quick pit stop to imbibe a local microbrew, I retraced my steps back through the park, enjoying the steaming splendors through the prism of the late afternoon sun. I was so tired and spent by the time I did the return death march through the 45 mile construction site back to Jackson Lake Lodge, I waved a polite thank you to the sign bearer when he </span><span id="description-text">waved me through, </span><span id="description-text">turning his STOP to SLOW. This was met with a contemptuous spit of sunflower seed husks into the dirt.</span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" face="georgia" class="MsoNormal">
<br /><span id="description-text"></span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span id="description-text">Next Post: The Bear Essentials, Jackson Hole and a Pilgrimage to the Land of Joseph Smith and Brigham Young. <span style="font-style: italic;">Until then</span></span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal">
<br /><span id="description-text"><span style="font-style: italic;"></span></span></p><p style="font-family: georgia;" class="MsoNormal"><span id="description-text"><span style="font-style: italic;">-Cheers!</span>
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<br />Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-29466070011001942892009-08-06T08:48:00.000-07:002009-08-07T10:37:50.360-07:00Impossible Beauty meets The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqoyaqQvTczPXf3tBvSNw71TEKQ4jB-ptK01Tp2K9rwWEshUmVv-Gfrax1lFPzoxSMIkodsCmoeQeTKjCjUQhhZHKhtX97ydVBBroJJEYAilIJrHpsLWUKmW4qMXLmlG49HzYfyMOeyA69/s1600-h/Teton+Morning+Glory+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 562px; height: 145px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqoyaqQvTczPXf3tBvSNw71TEKQ4jB-ptK01Tp2K9rwWEshUmVv-Gfrax1lFPzoxSMIkodsCmoeQeTKjCjUQhhZHKhtX97ydVBBroJJEYAilIJrHpsLWUKmW4qMXLmlG49HzYfyMOeyA69/s320/Teton+Morning+Glory+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5367273984997726002" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >The Grand Tetons, from the deck of Jackson Lake Lodge</span><br /><br />As is often the case, the clouds that clung low to the ridges and peaks on the east side of Togwotee Pass gave way to a breathtaking clear blue on the far side. I was worried the Tetons would be obscured by the low ceiling. Now, as the clouds melted away into a sparkling clear afternoon sky, I began the final 20 mile descent down to Grand Teton National Park peering anxiously around every corner for my first view of this magnificent mountain range.<br /><br />STOP. Oh no! The sign's intent was all too clear even if it's bearer, chewing on (and spitting out) a seemingly endless supply of sunflower seeds procured from his pocket and staring hollow-eyed into the distance, seemed completely disinterested. Immediately behind this impervious impediment to my travels the pristine highway gave way to a vast dirt wasteland.<br /><br />This heaving scar of dirt stretched across the pastoral mountain valley as far as the eye could see. Hundred ton machines scratched and clawed the earth, spewing columns of dust high into the clear blue mountain air. Gargantuan loaders heaved mountains of dirt onto growling semi-trucks bound for destinations unknown while small pickups flitted back and forth like ants attending the smoking behemoths.<br /><br />It was Rocky Mountains meets Dante's Inferno. I must have just missed the last group of travelers to be led trembling and cowering through this volcanic maze of machinery. This meant I had the dubious honor of waiting longer than anyone else in the line of vehicles now piling up to my rear for the next escort. As the wait stretched on I began to anticipate each spit of cud-like husks from the curled lips of the sign bearer.<br /><br />After a seemingly interminable wait in which the sun seemed to sink faster just to spite me, a line of vehicles finally emerged from the dust. Like a column of refugees emerging from a lost city, the cars, trucks, buses and mobile homes continued to materialize, lead by a small white pickup, its flashing yellow light leading the way to freedom. The column must have been over 400 yards long. As they marched solemnly by, you could sense profound relief as they once again hit pavement to continue their journey, combined with abject pity for those of us still waiting to run the gauntlet.<br /><br />When the small white pickup with the yellow light on top reached the pavement, it jerked away from the front of the column, nearly hitting the lead vehicle, yanked itself directly in front of our column in a cloud of dust and backed up with resounding speed stopping abruptly just inches from my front bumper. My friend the sunflower seed chewer, whom I now suspected of having a feed bag full of things shoved in his pants, opened the passenger door of the truck, exchanged a few words with the driver, looked back at the column and laughed. I somehow felt they were laughing at me personally.<br /><br />When the last gigantic RV in the column had finally past, the sign bearer nonchalantly flipped his sign over to read SLOW. I hated him. As soon as the sign flipped, the small white pickup with the yellow light on top sprang to life, pelting the windshield of my rent-a-car with various sized rocks and pebbles as he fishtailed away. I started the engine, dropped it into gear and jumped in to follow. I felt I was at the head of a wagon train moving out again onto the Oregon Trail. Hopefully we wouldn't have to eat anyone.<br /><br />The small pickup with the yellow light on top would speed up and slow down erratically as we twisted and turned our way through the labyrinthine construction site. Swinging mechanical arms bearing bus-sized loads of earth swayed overhead, while semis, tractors and steamrollers toiled in the swirling maelstrom. After five miles or so of this harrowing journey, hands white knuckling the steering wheel, the dust suddenly gave way to clear blue skies, the smoking volcanic landscape to fresh pavement. We were free! As we passed the line of cars piling up to cross from the other side, I laughed demonically as I passed a sign that read: Thanks for your patience. Your Recovery Dollars at Work!<br /><br />The wait and crossing had taken over an hour. I was now worried that my arrival at the Tetons would be too late to take in the afternoon scenery. No sooner had I begun to mope when from around a bend in the road, the huge, jagged outline of Mount Moran became visible, huge, imposing and bigger than anything I had seen on the trip thus far. Driving further on the walls of the valley gave way to a vast golden plain, reaching across to a full, unencumbered view of the Grand Tetons, stretching from horizon to horizon.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfz37B4ryWPqOr754CW4-YG8mbFMheyBBFi6Zog6NH8gLXFWji-qdx4_U0CZXVuWMSWIb-39N0TTdsZyRU-8pa-qlDBftH7bJKeI6qZybQmcUDD-UmZx2A2O8pzPuD1sjgvAllLUoyVhzZ/s1600-h/Grand+Tetons+at+Sunset+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 595px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfz37B4ryWPqOr754CW4-YG8mbFMheyBBFi6Zog6NH8gLXFWji-qdx4_U0CZXVuWMSWIb-39N0TTdsZyRU-8pa-qlDBftH7bJKeI6qZybQmcUDD-UmZx2A2O8pzPuD1sjgvAllLUoyVhzZ/s320/Grand+Tetons+at+Sunset+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5367271366466888434" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Grand Tetons at Sunset</span>. From the deck of the Jackson Lake Lodge, Huckleberry Martini not included</span><br /><br />The breathtaking scale and jagged countenance of the mountains towering over the golden plain makes these mountains extraordinarily unique and impossibly beautiful. As you get closer they grow ever larger, ever more imposing in their majestic beauty. After paying the obligatory 25 bucks to enter the park (good for seven days, both at the Grand Tetons and nearby Yellowstone), we headed up to Jackson Lake Lodge, or accommodations for the next two days.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLpjb4CToCSJGJGoALBDIIhkN1Wuh1u9WYC4SvKX4KJLd04gn0AI9qEU-xNH_YClxP1mlqZKO5Ee7PemTLTCflq6uXtFpS7f9lcT_6TojM3E3J1mUo3A1lKeZrvqbp5suB9DMSkfFtT6Y/s1600-h/Grand+Teton+from+Jackson+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 159px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBLpjb4CToCSJGJGoALBDIIhkN1Wuh1u9WYC4SvKX4KJLd04gn0AI9qEU-xNH_YClxP1mlqZKO5Ee7PemTLTCflq6uXtFpS7f9lcT_6TojM3E3J1mUo3A1lKeZrvqbp5suB9DMSkfFtT6Y/s320/Grand+Teton+from+Jackson+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5367271382204663826" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdn_6whNG2fkZjj0wkJn28EqEvA3g7g0FqxaHq43_f5ThxzIvES7inXYrioFmG6gWKTJGRDonmhyphenhyphentcItsZXXnT7Gp_lixPl-2-rhdg9gkLXbg2hZWuRDvIvY9vEtXtwN5fkI3iasHOKdQ/s1600-h/Jackson+Lake+Lodge+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 159px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjdn_6whNG2fkZjj0wkJn28EqEvA3g7g0FqxaHq43_f5ThxzIvES7inXYrioFmG6gWKTJGRDonmhyphenhyphentcItsZXXnT7Gp_lixPl-2-rhdg9gkLXbg2hZWuRDvIvY9vEtXtwN5fkI3iasHOKdQ/s320/Jackson+Lake+Lodge+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5367271377607760050" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Grand Teton (left) from Jackson Lake Dam. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span></span><span style="text-decoration: underline; font-weight: bold;"></span><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >: Historic Jackson Lake Lodge</span><br /><br />The Jackson Lake Lodge, designated as a historical landmark in 2003, was completed in 1955. It sits on a ridge or a pristine meadow where moose and dear can often be seen in the early morning and late evening. Across the meadow Jackson Lake fills in the visual plain leading to the Tetons, the ultimate reflecting pool.<br /><br />The thirty foot high windows of the main room offer an exceptional view, but to get the real feeling of the Tetons, simply step outside and have a drink at the outdoor bar overlooking the lake and meadow. This Ansel Adams view is simply one of the best in the world. After a long day of driving, the Lodge's signature huckleberry martinis combined with the view worked together seamlessly to deliver a near religious experience to the afternoon sunset.<br /><br />Accommodations were at the small and comfortable cabins nestled in the aromatic pine woods adjacent to the lodge. As the pearlescent night set in, the travails of the day melted away in mountain splendor. Today, The Grand Tetons, Tomorrow, Yellowstone, where we were told of a great little used bookstore in the town of West Yellowstone near the west entrance to the park.<br /><br />Until then- <span style="font-style: italic;">Cheers!</span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-35378282825655647312009-08-03T07:12:00.000-07:002009-08-05T15:54:59.493-07:00Bookish Meanderings in the Country's Least Populous StateLightening pulsed through the thunderheads above, providing glimpses in pink and green of the undulating hills below. The highway shimmered in the headlights with recently fallen rain. I hadn't seen a single drop the length of the drive but the pavement had been wet for miles. "Welcome to Wyoming" was announced on a small placard some distance back. In the pauses between lightening flashes the night was pitch black.<br /><br />The intersection with Interstate 80 was now visible, a distant line of tiny lights moving across the horizon. I'd had a wary eye on the gas gauge the last 20 miles or so, and was looking forward to getting a refill. Arriving at the intersection, I was disappointed to see nothing but a closed Conoco Station, the tarmac chained and weeded, and a ramshackle fireworks stand.<br /><br />It was getting late and I was dizzy with sleepiness. Looking at the map the closest outpost of civilization was Rawlins, a small town 25 miles to the east at the intersection of highway 287, which would lead up to the Grand Tetons. This appeared to be an actual town, and not just a highway rest stop so I hopped on 80 and headed east. Up and down the dilapidated and dusty Main St. there were a variety of hotels. Some open, some boarded up, some open which should have long since closed.<br /><br />Signs on various hotel fronts cried out: Free HBO, Free WiFi; American Owned and Operated; and my favorite: Biker Owned, All Bikers Welcome. I opted for the Travelodge for its balanced look of open, normal and cheap. The guy behind the desk, Patel, said this was high season in Rawlins (which made one wonder about low season, the town was half boarded up as it was). "In the winter it's ten below with howling winds all the time, really nasty", said Patel. Gee, why would anyone live here, I thought. More specifically: how does a guy from India end up living and working in a hotel in Rawlins, Wyoming? It was a questions that would have to wait. It had been a long day, I was beat and had to get some rest.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7jbzOjGpXKrOX5u0jWzZ624yGoLSZ3a4EKhoBrCFGPp0sIK84066iG0K8bCZv6fWJ2vMByUGPlfxa1S2FlMwAlKHlfj75JgNd6fKETHXBDgRgGmELQ-cMO8vLmd7eF_5J95WgM0RNUGR/s1600-h/TL+Vista+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 161px; height: 119px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7jbzOjGpXKrOX5u0jWzZ624yGoLSZ3a4EKhoBrCFGPp0sIK84066iG0K8bCZv6fWJ2vMByUGPlfxa1S2FlMwAlKHlfj75JgNd6fKETHXBDgRgGmELQ-cMO8vLmd7eF_5J95WgM0RNUGR/s320/TL+Vista+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366608599648071682" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94Q4h6PKu-sooKbMhwzPkc_IU_E9OmCvLfkfe6yvpp_BbNmdrnUdmAKr-lLaUTAd67v4PSLhIhCMq-3Gc9cArfizdIzHxGzUalvJwb4fqnr_6vKnWdUDx1lAkuHhjyvKy5ct4NIUsj806/s1600-h/TL+Vista+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 138px; height: 121px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh94Q4h6PKu-sooKbMhwzPkc_IU_E9OmCvLfkfe6yvpp_BbNmdrnUdmAKr-lLaUTAd67v4PSLhIhCMq-3Gc9cArfizdIzHxGzUalvJwb4fqnr_6vKnWdUDx1lAkuHhjyvKy5ct4NIUsj806/s320/TL+Vista+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366608606979202466" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVVJ5G06flZ4KMydChlt9_tiZX5LaEfNhQHotbp2YeU5inVoAvTD8Ha147r22BDD1Umn-udYdkIAoMrcBPXYD5TGA3h41UST9rd7bWDY6PEPjiMgC1GbWEfMK7rvkGC4811guJVmN0vjVZ/s1600-h/TL+Vista+3+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 146px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVVJ5G06flZ4KMydChlt9_tiZX5LaEfNhQHotbp2YeU5inVoAvTD8Ha147r22BDD1Umn-udYdkIAoMrcBPXYD5TGA3h41UST9rd7bWDY6PEPjiMgC1GbWEfMK7rvkGC4811guJVmN0vjVZ/s320/TL+Vista+3+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366608614788363602" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdTw5xBt2MaHoKerfOVdMSNRs_CzZusuQKfTeEf_aWGJUL7kIe4BXui92bANJuB0BsY9uXn24-9iVW8R0dHFxV-8iPKEsH9F93mqzLLndRlKQIDgiiTvvObVUQix-UHEZfIj39Z-GIKgbj/s1600-h/TL+Vista+4+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 172px; height: 125px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdTw5xBt2MaHoKerfOVdMSNRs_CzZusuQKfTeEf_aWGJUL7kIe4BXui92bANJuB0BsY9uXn24-9iVW8R0dHFxV-8iPKEsH9F93mqzLLndRlKQIDgiiTvvObVUQix-UHEZfIj39Z-GIKgbj/s320/TL+Vista+4+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366608619946588866" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"></span> Panoramic view from the Rawlins Travelodge</span></span><br /></div><br />Peering out the hotel window the next morning, one definitely had the feeling of being in the least populated state in the US. At 97,814 square miles, Wyoming is the 10th largest state in the country, far ahead of Pennsylvania at 33rd. But with a population of only 532,668 souls, Wyoming's 917,814 square miles are populated by less people than the District of Columbia's 68.3 square miles, making it 50th in population on the list of US states.<br /><br />Driving north out of Rawlins the road meandered through endless miles of high rolling hills and desolate sink valleys, crossing the Continental Divide several times at over 7,000 feet in high plains altitude. Elaborate snow barriers lined each side of the highway, providing a hint of life here during the long, cold winter.<br /><br />At every intersection major and minor, permanently fixed signs and movable barriers warning of weather-related closures sat benign under the oppressive summer sun. Passing through one and two block towns with names like like Muddy Gap and Sweetwater Station, there were often no gas stations or eateries. Just a few simple structures, some collapsed, some semi-collapsed, surrounded by junked cars, schools buses and torn fences, nestled together in a barren landscape ringed by distant, desolate mountains. It was awesome!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg254H7hjU0_Mmo7mPmr2FYIsH34d3nUoxMzS6L4g7HOyQbkaDPauk1bHyXIx2WCl0lgbCkzS5iP1QaD3xzdbpa1uAYtYDnM7MBn2inbNHQVFcvIrrAK1yGmGymrIfZdA-h1K3alJGO21mj/s1600-h/Lander+Main+St+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 473px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg254H7hjU0_Mmo7mPmr2FYIsH34d3nUoxMzS6L4g7HOyQbkaDPauk1bHyXIx2WCl0lgbCkzS5iP1QaD3xzdbpa1uAYtYDnM7MBn2inbNHQVFcvIrrAK1yGmGymrIfZdA-h1K3alJGO21mj/s320/Lander+Main+St+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366614440954761234" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Main St., Lander, Wyoming</span></span><br /><br />After a hundred miles or so, the landscape became more inviting as we approached the town of Lander, population of 6,867, elevation 5,358, near the entrance to the Wind River Indian Reservation along the middle fork of the adorably named Popo Agie river. Here, along a distinctly western looking main drag, lies a small town reading mecca, offering residents and visitors not one, but three diverse and interesting bookstores.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiixIzA_pU4WzD8FAliKPcO-5iE4zlDCb_PD_qT7-T4czrRWBJvmNPG04V8VEmyWo84jiwNo8LaeHvH6LRrccpkdVyC4NsIWrAx1Ro3ggWeufX887ejXZ6Fnv1PCzBI1soRtsDr5l8nTCUd/s1600-h/Main+St+Books+Ext+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 283px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiixIzA_pU4WzD8FAliKPcO-5iE4zlDCb_PD_qT7-T4czrRWBJvmNPG04V8VEmyWo84jiwNo8LaeHvH6LRrccpkdVyC4NsIWrAx1Ro3ggWeufX887ejXZ6Fnv1PCzBI1soRtsDr5l8nTCUd/s320/Main+St+Books+Ext+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366611469097257506" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kfUTrNfyx943w9DaKT6EPq3ypnM-NyHa36nLP6d17ILgvFkhSnAlWp1773-b5UNgzZD3CyBvqhUCgGtNNQBV0nnEanXHf83HiR_XgVAFehWsMELe64ZyvSVj9q_fvcNGTfRBnNBW3DTp/s1600-h/Main+St+Books+Int+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0kfUTrNfyx943w9DaKT6EPq3ypnM-NyHa36nLP6d17ILgvFkhSnAlWp1773-b5UNgzZD3CyBvqhUCgGtNNQBV0nnEanXHf83HiR_XgVAFehWsMELe64ZyvSVj9q_fvcNGTfRBnNBW3DTp/s320/Main+St+Books+Int+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366611476764040018" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6aKk5LmEB86tX-Nq0lzRr-vJKzIdUs85zeZu5rrSJVDftZgBZmHL5QcmotfOVf6TAXKwTMu0h2PTv6ZmOsf6zuL03mz7-lCYUfD1c6tOtrBY71nckpRH6H03dMFyPiIdP-VQUC6qFQyQ/s1600-h/Main+St+Books+Int+3+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 281px; height: 209px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6aKk5LmEB86tX-Nq0lzRr-vJKzIdUs85zeZu5rrSJVDftZgBZmHL5QcmotfOVf6TAXKwTMu0h2PTv6ZmOsf6zuL03mz7-lCYUfD1c6tOtrBY71nckpRH6H03dMFyPiIdP-VQUC6qFQyQ/s320/Main+St+Books+Int+3+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366611482052357074" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrQkM7amomXb27GGCqKKZasBjfRBa67XNHIh7cNeCVILxY5QZLwRJ3960l5ojzkUHB6GuDIhkDMXWRKTfygGq0LYkMOYNdY2u26585BJSnlOWXtkR7nV8xq4lnfmskx5CPhQFML34a8O_/s1600-h/Main+St+Books+Int+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnrQkM7amomXb27GGCqKKZasBjfRBa67XNHIh7cNeCVILxY5QZLwRJ3960l5ojzkUHB6GuDIhkDMXWRKTfygGq0LYkMOYNdY2u26585BJSnlOWXtkR7nV8xq4lnfmskx5CPhQFML34a8O_/s320/Main+St+Books+Int+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366611471800376914" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Main Street Books, Lander, Wyoming</span></span><br /></div><br />Main Street Books at 3rd and Main, is the local indie that offers a broad selection of new titles and best sellers with a great collection of regional authors and subjects worked in to the mix. It's a well organized store with a great coffee shop, a stellar kid's section and an intriguing selection of toys and gifts. A great place to start your Craig Johnson collection. Thanks for your help, Mike and best of luck with your studies in Laramie!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75agJWR_GecTd_5UcTQkDF2FnK4hghSuKQ4PGAfwcWaju7zyz-DoRpqa9owdCyrKJW-Y6zg8c-j3jmzzd-yIEiKfo6sph-B-P3WWZMSaluEXPr2MV3yyKS_fQfM6vwLO7M1bbgRNbnBd9/s1600-h/BookBasket+Ext+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 260px; height: 184px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj75agJWR_GecTd_5UcTQkDF2FnK4hghSuKQ4PGAfwcWaju7zyz-DoRpqa9owdCyrKJW-Y6zg8c-j3jmzzd-yIEiKfo6sph-B-P3WWZMSaluEXPr2MV3yyKS_fQfM6vwLO7M1bbgRNbnBd9/s320/BookBasket+Ext+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366610334114599298" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD4Oe1ZtLJc2i_HvjEoZrLhnzzYBAWbXmuK1MHV4tYlDV6GRNgKoOQSV7cUzt7Y6srfZYchLznO8zfW4dV0l8ae1VmrVJY-gRtJBsRaiUiWdOj6xRjob4l7JiaR5UusXRzg3Ni1m5HKLS7/s1600-h/BookBasket+Kids+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 243px; height: 183px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD4Oe1ZtLJc2i_HvjEoZrLhnzzYBAWbXmuK1MHV4tYlDV6GRNgKoOQSV7cUzt7Y6srfZYchLznO8zfW4dV0l8ae1VmrVJY-gRtJBsRaiUiWdOj6xRjob4l7JiaR5UusXRzg3Ni1m5HKLS7/s320/BookBasket+Kids+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366610345857003938" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-JkSurcogpf0h0Wm6gcbTBXlIX1Tc_fpDa3yXNLL1xqpV09SKnaJFqs5ZpNl1NEhPjN_V4H6wXeFkJuAPXTMXHcCL8HFW3z6mxaKLVdR0-RMpWNWzRVm1Slbz-e7w6_Nb2zhL8L39bRV/s1600-h/BookBasket+Int+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 260px; height: 196px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl-JkSurcogpf0h0Wm6gcbTBXlIX1Tc_fpDa3yXNLL1xqpV09SKnaJFqs5ZpNl1NEhPjN_V4H6wXeFkJuAPXTMXHcCL8HFW3z6mxaKLVdR0-RMpWNWzRVm1Slbz-e7w6_Nb2zhL8L39bRV/s320/BookBasket+Int+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366610341886539538" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilcsx6xE-AqHUSp2smNdRKlzMmoYdq1XSUeMjWYeckdo04FZY8INsfvxofPfRVwNsDSbf8ojTF4KNIGR6fUSPO1gsKvwoPJKbQsAh4ecZChPFAFoCSOQmtBoCxWdZYzO6mSU57gOfXtQrx/s1600-h/BookBasket+Int+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 239px; height: 179px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilcsx6xE-AqHUSp2smNdRKlzMmoYdq1XSUeMjWYeckdo04FZY8INsfvxofPfRVwNsDSbf8ojTF4KNIGR6fUSPO1gsKvwoPJKbQsAh4ecZChPFAFoCSOQmtBoCxWdZYzO6mSU57gOfXtQrx/s320/BookBasket+Int+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366610337209391250" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: The Book Basket</span><span style="font-style: italic;">, Lander, Wyoming</span></span><br /></div><br />Directly across the street lies the The Book Basket, Marty Brace, owner. You would be thrilled to find this truly distinct and well-organized used book store in any major city across the US, but to find it in Lander, Wyoming makes it a true gem. They have a great selection of local/western titles and subjects, an outstanding kids selection, and a selection diverse and unique enough to satisfy even the most jaded bibliophile (not that there are any). Thanks for your help, Steve, and for your recommendation to visit the store in West Yellowstone. Good Call!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzizYKKo2WWrQmDOXVwyMQyITYJt1BEr32L8PClLOdMoKJhwTK4lrpOVyrNE9wE4e1gwmPpS4FKAOHLSzaOscoIVP5kEHDoD6a7OJHQhhP5UaHeA3ML-SdEU6wsdsv_F5PWuqL88NIy51t/s1600-h/Cabin+Fever+Ext+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 202px; height: 151px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzizYKKo2WWrQmDOXVwyMQyITYJt1BEr32L8PClLOdMoKJhwTK4lrpOVyrNE9wE4e1gwmPpS4FKAOHLSzaOscoIVP5kEHDoD6a7OJHQhhP5UaHeA3ML-SdEU6wsdsv_F5PWuqL88NIy51t/s320/Cabin+Fever+Ext+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366612525590471714" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCl_liYzrbpMcQGmh8XAlMrsCtcjrbhVID2NOnT9bpaiu_a0aH8VYEpIPY1wlF-CfRdwqlNf-ONz9Go5CtlMsNmatTcHwWYLFS3d16yuKVaVhaRj9w33i1CHWZBRkTQng0CommODjq3Ftb/s1600-h/Cabin+Fever+Int+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 201px; height: 151px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCl_liYzrbpMcQGmh8XAlMrsCtcjrbhVID2NOnT9bpaiu_a0aH8VYEpIPY1wlF-CfRdwqlNf-ONz9Go5CtlMsNmatTcHwWYLFS3d16yuKVaVhaRj9w33i1CHWZBRkTQng0CommODjq3Ftb/s320/Cabin+Fever+Int+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366612538871009698" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsOrr0_ItEjvQOmZKz5pPNvZIo17_abjo1y1iswFQqOdsFrwaV9x6nV44jxccHNg19eXwTdERP2pVGoCSsqe1YMcdnGSbkDfXEea5AxrZgjy2hi5059pi2aPMk84RXoXgY8JFYsVYxzge/s1600-h/Cabin+Fever+Int+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 202px; height: 151px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwsOrr0_ItEjvQOmZKz5pPNvZIo17_abjo1y1iswFQqOdsFrwaV9x6nV44jxccHNg19eXwTdERP2pVGoCSsqe1YMcdnGSbkDfXEea5AxrZgjy2hi5059pi2aPMk84RXoXgY8JFYsVYxzge/s320/Cabin+Fever+Int+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366612533777123586" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: Cabin Fever, Lander, Wyoming</span></span><br /><br />Continuing further west along main street past the movie theater and grocery store filled in between by a plethora of interesting touristy and non-touristy retailers, cafes and dry goods stores lies Cabin Fever. This new book indie is part bookstore, part educational toy store, part culinary book and supply. Along with a range of toys, games and gifts, Cabin Fever really does offer a cure for the winter blues.<br /><br />After a quick lunch washed down by a superb local pint of amber ale at the Gannet Grill/Lander Bar, it was off to the west again. One final chance to take in Lander's beautifully historic Main St. before running the gauntlet of national chain restaurants outside town before heading into the ruggedly beautifully Wind River Valley region.<br /><br />Travelling through the Wind River Indian Reservation (shared by the Eastern Shoshone and Northern Arapaho tribes) the landscape becomes ever more beautiful. Paralleling the scenic Wind River, the road reaches higher and higher through scenic mountain valleys and plateaus. Continuing through the high country of the Wind River Range past Gannett Peak, the highest point in Wyoming at 13,804 ft, and through the town of Dubois, the road peaks at at the top of Togwotee pass at 9,658 ft.<br /><br />Here, I stopped to marvel at astounding rock cornices towering into the clouds, thick with blankets of pine stretching across wide valleys. Broken here an there by monumental cliffs and boulder fields pouring down from the heights, the astounding promontories were held together by a broad and seemingly endless plain of pastoral meadows. Alone in the silence, wind sighing in the distant trees, it was hard to imagine a place more beautiful or serene.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDJAFniWeavUSzYfiCpn9aRPWtZsaz1zTieXn91Cf5PiQYito8co0K3LHD2Jg1nOR6TSEYA64CzfhJHmsUHrxoXBM5_PBuONch2Zun-huPclvBbo5sVt98Qrf-2xWTVppvX0O_kupguLK/s1600-h/Top+of+Togwotee+Pass+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 555px; height: 290px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQDJAFniWeavUSzYfiCpn9aRPWtZsaz1zTieXn91Cf5PiQYito8co0K3LHD2Jg1nOR6TSEYA64CzfhJHmsUHrxoXBM5_PBuONch2Zun-huPclvBbo5sVt98Qrf-2xWTVppvX0O_kupguLK/s320/Top+of+Togwotee+Pass+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366612542656876242" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Above</span>: from the top of Togwotee Pass</span></span><br /><br />This would shortly be put to the test as I released the emergency brake and pointed my way down down the western slope of the pass towards the imposing Grand Tetons to the west.<br /><br />Next Post: Impossible Beauty meets The American Recovery and Reinvestment Act. Until then!<br /><br />-Cheers!Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-64718597829244557832009-08-02T06:07:00.000-07:002009-08-02T09:58:00.094-07:00On the Road AgainA couple of things I forgot to mention in my last post.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TrxbtJQ53iXeXu0D1wGKgEl9jY4KS0gYktUp_d6mHwAQ04M_LJzQEaxa8a-wlL11Iqph9ymMyqQSL60s8rGEw7Yky86o32P5n9o8Hfz1InVI3kFR5ah9NcMSL9zKkQSmCbVsRaC2neIK/s1600-h/Rio+Grande+Boulder+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 192px; height: 144px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8TrxbtJQ53iXeXu0D1wGKgEl9jY4KS0gYktUp_d6mHwAQ04M_LJzQEaxa8a-wlL11Iqph9ymMyqQSL60s8rGEw7Yky86o32P5n9o8Hfz1InVI3kFR5ah9NcMSL9zKkQSmCbVsRaC2neIK/s320/Rio+Grande+Boulder+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365400475447490530" border="0" /></a><br /><br />First, if you ever find yourself in Boulder, don't forget to stop by <a href="http://www.riograndemexican.com/">Rio Grande</a> at 11th and Walnut (one block south of Pearl St.) for fabulous Mexican food and more importantly, for their killer margs. Their margaritas are so notoriously potent (and delicious), they told me they've established a 2 marg maximum for their patrons (maybe that was just for me). At any rate, well worth it after a day of wandering the mall.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlU8M1MoCk9QgG_B-qTlRBQlgFOYJ1mTnPfgrBKRGdHScCnDWLkBl6ZA0SRZ8qOcx-2L8ytkc9tfr-YTSeeLDlTSPHB9DFutg2TshZBhSBRQXnbk2MEKqeFPDTy247Bh3VjNscyuw74KyH/s1600-h/View+from+the+Cabin+Evergreen+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 296px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlU8M1MoCk9QgG_B-qTlRBQlgFOYJ1mTnPfgrBKRGdHScCnDWLkBl6ZA0SRZ8qOcx-2L8ytkc9tfr-YTSeeLDlTSPHB9DFutg2TshZBhSBRQXnbk2MEKqeFPDTy247Bh3VjNscyuw74KyH/s320/View+from+the+Cabin+Evergreen+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365400489009148770" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYvKOKQ6IPBsrDrMMDAjDBYJr4xqgY2ozLDB2QaN4WxR-uLgFNU2_tkkd_cfxLrpGfkAN7uBRpyGMtj8VRikaKkna6JKy_NUarKLf_rPS_28kxiA38zfMmrhgVaZ6W13F-N2tG8piwbHK/s1600-h/Evergreen+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYvKOKQ6IPBsrDrMMDAjDBYJr4xqgY2ozLDB2QaN4WxR-uLgFNU2_tkkd_cfxLrpGfkAN7uBRpyGMtj8VRikaKkna6JKy_NUarKLf_rPS_28kxiA38zfMmrhgVaZ6W13F-N2tG8piwbHK/s320/Evergreen+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365400483155075394" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: View from the Cabin, Evergreen. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Evergreen Lake</span><br /><br />Also, thanks go out to my hosts in Evergreen, Colorado where your humble Booktraveler was lucky enough to be treated to a 4-day stay in a beautiful luxury hilltop "cabin" following the stay in Denver. Evergreen is just 40 minutes or so west of Denver, a beautiful mountain town nestled around a small municipal lake in the foothills. Its proximity to Denver makes it prime real estate, and staying there I can certainly see why. Lots of great little bars and eateries in the 3 block strip of "downtown", and a great place to visit for a walk or paddle around the lake and for easy access to I-70, Squaw Pass, Red Rocks and the rest of the Colorado Rockies.<br /><br />Speaking of which, while meandering about the I-70 corridor, a fun afternoon was spent in the quaint, very high and very western hamlet of <a href="http://www.georgetowncolorado.com/">Georgetown</a>, roughly 45 miles west of Denver. Like most of the towns along Clear Creek, Georgetown was a product of the mid-nineteenth century gold rush and looks it. Its quaint little main street is nicely refurbished with more than enough colorful shops and watering holes to make for a fun morning or afternoon.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmaFhXg1NwxHZ4h_t8wpIE6bamSXqMLb9p7hYxnE1lwLc0lP1lCcwgCDWezJp-rpaGaYWY3FId__GGBz1xeSyY-BxlK0ZHjz3fWJ99P4NwUgyw9kslVKavWkDKXMXv1XHF2NKof20yOBmE/s1600-h/Georgetown+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 180px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmaFhXg1NwxHZ4h_t8wpIE6bamSXqMLb9p7hYxnE1lwLc0lP1lCcwgCDWezJp-rpaGaYWY3FId__GGBz1xeSyY-BxlK0ZHjz3fWJ99P4NwUgyw9kslVKavWkDKXMXv1XHF2NKof20yOBmE/s320/Georgetown+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365402869269429794" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjg3aoAQkc9hH0qoHkkr4aw0UhwVv8RShJpdX_gx990gQrQkm7S2Zb4uAqO4RJCUUA-T6ght2sW5nQRSC33d6NXadB9l-3d27-KlqRQX90Rni0E41yPNzdYewmwFqMbpxaE0OMlSDHoVl/s1600-h/Georgetown+Loop+Train+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqjg3aoAQkc9hH0qoHkkr4aw0UhwVv8RShJpdX_gx990gQrQkm7S2Zb4uAqO4RJCUUA-T6ght2sW5nQRSC33d6NXadB9l-3d27-KlqRQX90Rni0E41yPNzdYewmwFqMbpxaE0OMlSDHoVl/s320/Georgetown+Loop+Train+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365402874549083410" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Historic Georgetown. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Georgetown Loop Train Trestle</span></span><br /></div><br />There's a great ice cream shop at the far end of the 6th Street that's worth the trip, and I couldn't help but ride the famed and well-hyped "Georgetown Loop" historical train, which chugs back and forth between Georgetown and the even higher Silver Plume mining town to the west. The highlight of the trip is crossing the recently rebuilt and extremely high steel trestle as soon as you leave the station. The rest of the trip, although beautiful, is somewhat anti-climactic to say the least, unless your one of those people who goes around wearing a train engineer's hat.<br /><br />And finally, special thanks go to out to my rafting guide Jake at Clear Creek Rafting in Idaho Springs. I'm alive. Also, thanks for the great tour, people of the Phoenix Mine in Idaho Springs. Too bad the gold didn't "pan out".<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjxAT7KeV_fTBIzyQqBtZ-rrWmGgwQNTi7IQhPDeSUqCesMeuWkCWB2po48CNx-qDTx2xzwFNhRDflaloXL2aTjUWl2pH-G0NhZeas8GjJgNDka2yAVo9-QTvhyphenhyphenygI1cpQ_0HQt50Pe-X/s1600-h/Inside+Phoenix+Mine+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 274px; height: 205px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTjxAT7KeV_fTBIzyQqBtZ-rrWmGgwQNTi7IQhPDeSUqCesMeuWkCWB2po48CNx-qDTx2xzwFNhRDflaloXL2aTjUWl2pH-G0NhZeas8GjJgNDka2yAVo9-QTvhyphenhyphenygI1cpQ_0HQt50Pe-X/s320/Inside+Phoenix+Mine+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365402876153675906" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHDRWQiisFwJ2S2l-Z3izQpVoOKU3HIZu3aKHprg7iCdJ66m-JXTM5wnmuGIlRDt15bXQ0PyC6ibGMK3ZWwV2XlLnAKInNOndNhDBpZ7el9LZgu4AgVqUD1BruGKt4yM87PWSwV7P3ieC/s1600-h/Phoenix+Mine+Security+Detail+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 272px; height: 205px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeHDRWQiisFwJ2S2l-Z3izQpVoOKU3HIZu3aKHprg7iCdJ66m-JXTM5wnmuGIlRDt15bXQ0PyC6ibGMK3ZWwV2XlLnAKInNOndNhDBpZ7el9LZgu4AgVqUD1BruGKt4yM87PWSwV7P3ieC/s320/Phoenix+Mine+Security+Detail+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365402878553105666" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Inside Phoenix Mine, Idaho Springs, CO. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Phoenix Mine Security Detail (yikes!)</span></span><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">ON THE ROAD AGAIN.</span><br /><br />Jumping off from Evergreen, it was great to be on the road again and headed for Wyoming, Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons. After dropping some fellow travelers off at the Denver International Airport (which is conveniently located out on the plains about halfway between Denver and New York City), I pointed my rented Mazda 5 north back through Boulder, then onward and upward toward Rocky Mountain National Park.<br /><br />Although this is an extremely circuitous route, the Park is so incredibly breathtaking it would be unconscionable to miss it, particularly the trip over the famed Trail Ridge Road. This "Highest Highway in the World", which runs up and over the Continental Divide at over 12,000 feet above sea level, is the most popular attraction in the park. Well worth the (deep breath) $20 entrance fee (hey, it's good for 7-days...although one does question what one's taxes are being paid for), it offers one-of-a-kind views of the park and surrounding peaks.<br /><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6_j9gWKriwILeUM5ccIaJwEUzMrq1M6cFrgK2rrMj5yg9yhptUNNJwpD-jRTqVz3s8QAaQNU0WZ2xYzxzZa1lhb6huj2dJMWK-l9HlqkxvdreOgPd49fWSc-0YfrB-OsM-75-OVxplHi/s1600-h/Stanley+Hotel+Estes+Park+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 353px; height: 232px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm6_j9gWKriwILeUM5ccIaJwEUzMrq1M6cFrgK2rrMj5yg9yhptUNNJwpD-jRTqVz3s8QAaQNU0WZ2xYzxzZa1lhb6huj2dJMWK-l9HlqkxvdreOgPd49fWSc-0YfrB-OsM-75-OVxplHi/s320/Stanley+Hotel+Estes+Park+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365400495685847266" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Stanley Hotel, Estes Park</span></span><br /></div><br />The road into the park leads through the gateway town of Estes Park, home of the venerable and Beautiful <a href="http://www.stanleyhotel.com/">Stanley Hotel</a>. The park and hotel are situated in one of the most beautiful glacial valleys in the country, lorded over by the towering Longs Peak and Mount Meeker to the south. If you're looking for quaint mountain solitude however, the teaming hordes packed into the streets, shops and restaurants of Estes Park give this the Disneyland of the Rockies about as much solitude as the Boardwalk in Ocean City, New Jersey on a July weekend.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBb2nN494sI7msvjydYfd-4P5Z336Q0TbYDjxOKWF8E8a3g2vgrRW4d7lEnpORcw-LHtUwiXTfAV4R9a__7TkgCplH5J7butUe_-HwHXDSGKlP9NDSPSMNzWmOvj_igYFUweo-WJVy2vZD/s1600-h/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+3+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBb2nN494sI7msvjydYfd-4P5Z336Q0TbYDjxOKWF8E8a3g2vgrRW4d7lEnpORcw-LHtUwiXTfAV4R9a__7TkgCplH5J7butUe_-HwHXDSGKlP9NDSPSMNzWmOvj_igYFUweo-WJVy2vZD/s320/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+3+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365403775977216946" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48vQVxudtOODw4DbuJKXs9VX3NVNojZnwYTzHcGerJqVLgL4vUZ9UBEPcyt20Qlebtcryq-qQ2AGeXu7rzH10tnptAT17XxxongDK51Lf4QArONCIQF1od8nj0sheHRdPTGSWs6sfwUPX/s1600-h/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+2+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 289px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi48vQVxudtOODw4DbuJKXs9VX3NVNojZnwYTzHcGerJqVLgL4vUZ9UBEPcyt20Qlebtcryq-qQ2AGeXu7rzH10tnptAT17XxxongDK51Lf4QArONCIQF1od8nj0sheHRdPTGSWs6sfwUPX/s320/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+2+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365403772400994562" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">View from the Top, Trail Ridge Road</span></span><br /></div><br />Nevertheless, once you pass through the town and enter the park, civilization instantly melts away as you are carried up into the clouds and across the loft peaks on Trail Ridge Road. While the road itself can be crowded in peak season, the overpowering beauty and sublime emptiness of the superb vistas along the way make for a breathtaking experience. An even more beautifully intimate experience awaits those who are able to get out of the car and walk a few hundred yards to the peaks and promontories abutting the road.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXrXekQ9rocJpSAq21QfKbrHDP22JcOfqG0RcWXV8bY0XLEeAVFqoy_XWnFDyP9vEr9tsb5u5gaYJCaDy76SkR3CqAL9fvHEKqLMoFxkKrZNc7U_NkwEdeFq6OjG-PVJhZSTe77nqsSB0/s1600-h/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+4+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 215px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXrXekQ9rocJpSAq21QfKbrHDP22JcOfqG0RcWXV8bY0XLEeAVFqoy_XWnFDyP9vEr9tsb5u5gaYJCaDy76SkR3CqAL9fvHEKqLMoFxkKrZNc7U_NkwEdeFq6OjG-PVJhZSTe77nqsSB0/s320/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+4+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365403778628855362" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqFiexKBzpg9HqM4wsLdV_f1AOCPMaRJKGY2Czmp_O_bRmoqVpGRh1mI_vBcP6fsxBleF66TUfutimtQf04I2yPnXEzo7OUfPaU2HwzU-FS4as6YLtY1CbJZfe1DkkevqEvfG_Gu2CiImV/s1600-h/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 286px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqFiexKBzpg9HqM4wsLdV_f1AOCPMaRJKGY2Czmp_O_bRmoqVpGRh1mI_vBcP6fsxBleF66TUfutimtQf04I2yPnXEzo7OUfPaU2HwzU-FS4as6YLtY1CbJZfe1DkkevqEvfG_Gu2CiImV/s320/View+fron+the+Top+Trail+Ridge+Road+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365403764780928898" border="0" /></a><br /><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">View from the Top, Trail Ridge Road</span></span><br /></div><br />Passing over the top of the pass and into the tree-lined valleys below, there's beauty around every turn as you pass Grand Lake and and the even grander Lake Granby before meeting up with highway 40 in the town of Granby. One alarming note along the drive is the unbelievable devastation being caused by the small but destructive pine beetle, which has ravaged the pine forests, particularly on the western side of the divide. Pine trees across entire swaths of the mountain range are dead or dying due to this most recent infestation. It's incredible that something so small can reap this much devastation. Beware H1N1!<br /><br />Continuing on a lighter note, the plan was to follow highway 40 into Steamboat Springs and visit a couple of very good independent new bookstores there. Once arriving in Steamboat however....there's something unsettling about a ski resort in summer(to me anyway)...I found I was ill prepared for the the crowds and clapboard condos. Combined with the late hour and distance yet to travel, the decision was made to continue on until night to lessen the burden the following day.<br /><br />Stopped in the most assuredly non-touristy coal mining town of Craig, Colorado, for an inexpensive and delicious Mexican dinner (noticing a pattern here?) at El Ranchero Restaurante, before turning north off highway 40 to head up lonely highway 13 towards Wyoming in the waning light of evening. On the way out of Craig, a little gem of a bookstore was spotted nestled near the end of the shops along the main street. Unfortunately this adorable store with the slightly overreaching name of "Downtown Books" was closed due to the late hour. After taking a peak in the windows I was tempted to stay another day to peruse, but it was not to be. Maybe next time. Ah, so many bookstores, so little time.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhad4VVOdiCfCKibUxUyL5FPiQy7vc2nCA02gV6wugNmGlwL0hxKrzuKGv3qjA6zPGWY20X-DCeObP3aBlPN1SW4UG0atzqpksHjUeDwXQIm3YsBBLX0YqlJfYm20gwU1wCgS7hfaYtY4Xu/s1600-h/Downtown+Books+Craig+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhad4VVOdiCfCKibUxUyL5FPiQy7vc2nCA02gV6wugNmGlwL0hxKrzuKGv3qjA6zPGWY20X-DCeObP3aBlPN1SW4UG0atzqpksHjUeDwXQIm3YsBBLX0YqlJfYm20gwU1wCgS7hfaYtY4Xu/s320/Downtown+Books+Craig+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365404302949797490" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" >Downtown Books, Craig, CO</span><br /><br />Heading into the night, towering thunderheads fifty miles to the north lit up the deserted highway as flashes of multi-hued lightening coursed upward through their stormy heights. There was not another light in sight and the sparse few cars and trucks that passed the other way seemed like lonely beacons from a distant civilization. Night had set in. It was six hours to the Grand Tetons. I decided to go as long as I could before finding a cheap roadside hotel and calling it a night.<br /><br />Next post: Bookish grand meanderings in the country's least populous state. Until then!<br /><br />-Cheers!Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-310017600962487372009-07-29T07:56:00.000-07:002009-07-30T22:40:42.842-07:00Cowboy Cosmo vs. PC Left-over Hippie Yuppie CapitalismIf Denver Metro reflects the ultimate in cowboy cosmopolitan, the city of Boulder, a mere 30 miles to the northwest, reflects the ultimate in self-conscious political correctness (garnished with a dash of left-over hippie and iced by a swirling layer of yuppie capitalism).<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1O-RHojUVCUrhMOPV5sIfLveSEZMYqBU91g5MWMT948WmGkIdvdL6BRWzBehYMLe_IlCIDIKquGbxudlz8Qgvb8PrjB1AreCgyGeCHaojWYjGf13TadJlI9d5Lnq3mu0rfm61D8xEMqD/s1600-h/The+Flatirons.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX1O-RHojUVCUrhMOPV5sIfLveSEZMYqBU91g5MWMT948WmGkIdvdL6BRWzBehYMLe_IlCIDIKquGbxudlz8Qgvb8PrjB1AreCgyGeCHaojWYjGf13TadJlI9d5Lnq3mu0rfm61D8xEMqD/s320/The+Flatirons.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364478127125234018" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlN0CVHQZp7Oy4UXPOzZwpFsndpIRycyjThk0kOhx5Zlm7fK__CXziwMgFnCO7nRMEqNE7hVrfVQNlL184m3ES8voqffSstWWDi99olemQ0xHtV-f0u9RMq095sQaJ3OQcSLoq4mXlSTz9/s1600-h/Pearl+Street+Mall+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 295px; height: 221px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlN0CVHQZp7Oy4UXPOzZwpFsndpIRycyjThk0kOhx5Zlm7fK__CXziwMgFnCO7nRMEqNE7hVrfVQNlL184m3ES8voqffSstWWDi99olemQ0xHtV-f0u9RMq095sQaJ3OQcSLoq4mXlSTz9/s320/Pearl+Street+Mall+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364478930759638034" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: The ubiquitous Flatiron Mountains from just outside Boulder. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Pearl St. Mall</span></span><br /><br />Nestled snugly up against the Flatiron mountains, this town of beautiful extremes offers something for everyone. A year-round paradise for the all-season outdoors enthusiast, a hallowed University-centered refuge for the learned, a thriving business opportunity for the entrepreneur and an active, robust environment for raising a family or retirement.<br /><br />This yin and yang balance of opposing forces, locked in constant, albeit gentile battle, backed by a serenely beautiful location makes Boulder one of the most unique cultural environments in the country. No wonder it also boasts one of the highest ratios of bookstores and degrees per capita.<br /><br />Like all cities and towns along the "Front Range", Boulder has hugely transitional weather. The Chinook winds of fall and winter can exceed hurricane force at 80 mph plus. The winter brings 60 degrees one day, 15 degrees the next, and the regular summer afternoon thunderstorms can turn any picnic into a run for your life. Not to mention the June snow storms.<br /><br />Driving over the high ridge that separates Denver from Boulder, the most visible landmarks that first come into view (besides the omnipresent Flatirons) are the larger structures of the University of Colorado, which dominates the city physically, politically and culturally. Beyond these modest high-rise structures, the city remains largely below the trees due to strict building height restrictions (one of many ongoing civic battles). This gives Boulder a distinctively beautiful small town look and feel.<br /><br />Although there are several distinct districts to the town, the main hang out is the famous Pearl Street Mall, a four block pedestrian mall right in the heart of town. This is also where you'll find a preponderance of Boulder's many and varied book stores.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitG-mWJ-mj40o1mXkx9ehekQ62BiavekyGrGucVxSmXdeVRbLI91zAVBsumuUFx26bO43FsKCgX27S1rf8BJOlR2Qh3vmZEvrJCc51Pt8VcSKkC7DJloZFoCTXrSh9u_DMiKMct22H37_U/s1600-h/Boulder+Bookstore+Front+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitG-mWJ-mj40o1mXkx9ehekQ62BiavekyGrGucVxSmXdeVRbLI91zAVBsumuUFx26bO43FsKCgX27S1rf8BJOlR2Qh3vmZEvrJCc51Pt8VcSKkC7DJloZFoCTXrSh9u_DMiKMct22H37_U/s320/Boulder+Bookstore+Front+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364478133679420082" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZkapA_o7zv2Croag2Ozk83edulJCOmOLooCEP1vKvcPlF3Tnqk7ev2RsJQp9nVJCmXiPBnP1TsevfDrm2Zx78BrYvNKL2H26Wvr_77NLSc9WdsQc1JZxcoFeFztbvdk2iNk3p2iB8mBH/s1600-h/Boulder+Bookstore+Interior+1+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgZkapA_o7zv2Croag2Ozk83edulJCOmOLooCEP1vKvcPlF3Tnqk7ev2RsJQp9nVJCmXiPBnP1TsevfDrm2Zx78BrYvNKL2H26Wvr_77NLSc9WdsQc1JZxcoFeFztbvdk2iNk3p2iB8mBH/s320/Boulder+Bookstore+Interior+1+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364478141557052210" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Boulder Bookstore Main Entrance on Pearl St. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Just a small section of one of Boulder Bookstore's three main floors</span></span>.<br /><br />First on the list is the unparalleled <a href="http://www.boulder-bookstore.com/">Boulder Bookstore</a> (pictured above) at the west end of the mall. This iconic new and used bookstore is a Boulder staple and one of the best organized and most pleasant new/used stores your humble Booktraveler has ever had the pleasure of visiting. Any description of this unique and beautiful store will pale by comparison to the experience. Boulder Bookstore is a big civic proponent and primary sponsor of the <a href="http://www.keepboulderweird.org/">Keep Boulder Weird</a> movement and website: "Your gateway to all things weird in Boulder, CO", need I say more?<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6aIXXsOopIfXXkzAkrADjbZl5paaGfZqGF7qGcgp8kDcDMAoBzeNxlyulm1NQpMGu8lT7un0pgZ__kxcRNNVl-lrkACywxxz4P89xUasseGM-S39P1B19C-eNB_8pg-4xZY65sXyQ5pX3/s1600-h/Left+Hand+Books+Sign+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6aIXXsOopIfXXkzAkrADjbZl5paaGfZqGF7qGcgp8kDcDMAoBzeNxlyulm1NQpMGu8lT7un0pgZ__kxcRNNVl-lrkACywxxz4P89xUasseGM-S39P1B19C-eNB_8pg-4xZY65sXyQ5pX3/s320/Left+Hand+Books+Sign+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364481321293604770" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiaW7_525SoTv4ADoc15RuD_LtDwdj0KPEhzOLn5b1wk1Kew1Kk3P9BAVtyCsPXT67G3hqmYwuebPRaeOmI0ALLFHO1ImOBZ-cPuHBAihCix5h64Ihk-40_6UiUcKWA6Y0NmoYqszRzY1/s1600-h/Left+Hand+Books+Interior+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 287px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyiaW7_525SoTv4ADoc15RuD_LtDwdj0KPEhzOLn5b1wk1Kew1Kk3P9BAVtyCsPXT67G3hqmYwuebPRaeOmI0ALLFHO1ImOBZ-cPuHBAihCix5h64Ihk-40_6UiUcKWA6Y0NmoYqszRzY1/s320/Left+Hand+Books+Interior+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364481324811497314" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Entrance to the Left Hand Books basement store. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Left Hand Books, anarchy from the inside.</span><br /><br />For all you anarchists out there, jump across the mall and down a block to the basement location of <a href="http://www.lefthandbooks.org/">Left Hand Books</a>; an "<span class="verd10dkgrey">all volunteer, not-for-profit, progressive bookstore providing access to alternative viewpoints and difficult-to-obtain sources of information". This superb alternative reading outlet offers a collection of new book titles and magazines you simply can't find anywhere else. If it's subversive, if it's underground, if it's politically left or far left, Left Hand Books has it. It's truly an amazing store.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmfsSDVHFYtXBoVBmL-YYEixWcfKNDkJY38G8LaDK4ReM9-xCybFUU07i3gdzaP8x2r5mEq9MtvcH03ogEjQce36D1L-b3xYHKTKp9uWzV0LGEN0ZiS5rEeRVScb_n1fEjiJwZGy8U2Pk/s1600-h/Trident+Exterior+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 249px; height: 204px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjmfsSDVHFYtXBoVBmL-YYEixWcfKNDkJY38G8LaDK4ReM9-xCybFUU07i3gdzaP8x2r5mEq9MtvcH03ogEjQce36D1L-b3xYHKTKp9uWzV0LGEN0ZiS5rEeRVScb_n1fEjiJwZGy8U2Pk/s320/Trident+Exterior+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364478146336957330" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5T93n9sd82yhiNlGsYMNn-w9ZloPGiGHuxT02ewAakAFKDo7pBrwClEMjtdxWxcuraPEMzxEIUnh87bm7MtCTDBWFJvRDDBngVY2aPE1pKbX-PASt63mKqhCpH8gXcXSkBREt-DfQZJE1/s1600-h/Trident+Interior+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 278px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5T93n9sd82yhiNlGsYMNn-w9ZloPGiGHuxT02ewAakAFKDo7pBrwClEMjtdxWxcuraPEMzxEIUnh87bm7MtCTDBWFJvRDDBngVY2aPE1pKbX-PASt63mKqhCpH8gXcXSkBREt-DfQZJE1/s320/Trident+Interior+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364478150756381986" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgineSi6AfO5FGJi7v2UuNk9MsunI5iZUFqTKw-_yI3Zp2gm6-DV4LameuaX3STIYYpCI3yqPCPeO_LuQcGFw2jtgpm9IJZQOgtMalzFeiUqxjw6O36-Dkprc4MsUnMzmLFjI9EqebRMIMV/s1600-h/Trident+Cafe+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 245px; height: 183px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgineSi6AfO5FGJi7v2UuNk9MsunI5iZUFqTKw-_yI3Zp2gm6-DV4LameuaX3STIYYpCI3yqPCPeO_LuQcGFw2jtgpm9IJZQOgtMalzFeiUqxjw6O36-Dkprc4MsUnMzmLFjI9EqebRMIMV/s320/Trident+Cafe+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364481326752173010" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Top Left</span>: Trident Booksellers and Cafe. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Top Right</span>: Trident booksellers side. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Bottom Left</span>: Trident cafe side</span></span><br /><span class="verd10dkgrey"><br />Heading further west along Pearl St., a couple of blocks off the walking mall you'll find <a href="http://www.tridentcafe.com/">Trident Booksellers and Cafe</a>. Trident is half indie new book store and half full service coffee house. Serving the community for over 20 years, Trident offers a perfect place to hang, especially in the summer when you can sit out front and watch the world go by with a great selection of books, excellent coffee and a free mountain backdrop.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGdTgZ2U2Og-ztkrhh7dhI5sSrVOwQj3cptK_MtD3qx3tFiW3jKQbZCkqXBsh8Sm5_-oBUP8IqdNXiSgJ9NbCD9ftt-syK4r7i6pYEU2HwTxM1LnRvwrkHyAnoT1KwGWeIdL2YuLaMXkF/s1600-h/Beat+Book+Shop+Exterior+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 243px; height: 205px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGdTgZ2U2Og-ztkrhh7dhI5sSrVOwQj3cptK_MtD3qx3tFiW3jKQbZCkqXBsh8Sm5_-oBUP8IqdNXiSgJ9NbCD9ftt-syK4r7i6pYEU2HwTxM1LnRvwrkHyAnoT1KwGWeIdL2YuLaMXkF/s320/Beat+Book+Shop+Exterior+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364484016495273090" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxyyb9_0YIZAbS_gt8MuYAQKx78CJh-ST_fwbyC7LVGHHZ1OknBDtH-XOgWHmsUMIR6Q0_fRq2WwJKr0eaWfpuVM-esNW1QfzLaelFTodOO42tJkLtLqX-Cg8m_O5j1TS44wUM607xddS/s1600-h/Beat+Book+Shop+Interior+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 273px; height: 203px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxyyb9_0YIZAbS_gt8MuYAQKx78CJh-ST_fwbyC7LVGHHZ1OknBDtH-XOgWHmsUMIR6Q0_fRq2WwJKr0eaWfpuVM-esNW1QfzLaelFTodOO42tJkLtLqX-Cg8m_O5j1TS44wUM607xddS/s320/Beat+Book+Shop+Interior+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364484020853659234" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgoRkGFQPn4op4jQBk-YbNI1p1OWlP_EqA6jLLeforfNqhSfT1QdTtEnEjZLlexvmphR2XQhkceLeJRm1M5J2kH0ZC_bDw8QroHvH-2Jc4c1IF5_n53BUVq1HcD1j61tNJYE06Ags_OPo3/s1600-h/Beat+Book+Shop+Interior+Tom+CU+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 242px; height: 187px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgoRkGFQPn4op4jQBk-YbNI1p1OWlP_EqA6jLLeforfNqhSfT1QdTtEnEjZLlexvmphR2XQhkceLeJRm1M5J2kH0ZC_bDw8QroHvH-2Jc4c1IF5_n53BUVq1HcD1j61tNJYE06Ags_OPo3/s320/Beat+Book+Shop+Interior+Tom+CU+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364484025434151058" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Top Left</span>: Beat Book Shop. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Top Right</span>: Beat Book Shop interior. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Bottom Left</span>: Your Poet/Proprietor Tom Peters</span><span style="font-style: italic;">. Note: Tom doesn't like you to take pictures of the store without asking. Also, if you happen know how to replace an 8" woofer in an old box speaker, please give him a call.</span></span><br /><br />Moving off the mall to the east in the still-trendy Pearl Street shopping district are two smaller bookstores that hearken back to an earlier era. The <a href="http://www.beatbookshop.com/">Beat Book Shop</a> at 1717 Pearl St. offers a distinctly old school used bookstore experience with a great selection of hard-to-find used books as well as a great selection of used music on vinyl. As the name intonates, Tom Peters the <span style="font-style: italic;">Poet/Proprietor</span> keeps a great collection of beat literature, underground and subversive authors along with an interesting mix of general used. Definitely worth a visit.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJIpWuT1qAF1Xby-pfLsMe3rTl6BEQadXETmNnchFUJ5AIyo3FPphtFTL1CLPmJSezeaJczverCrBGKkzRnvAdMSokV5gatHZj1n8FjPnwfdZeWblGiXr9mguBvUiFS9uSrVRpoSybYzY/s1600-h/Red+Letter+Books+Exterior+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 264px; height: 198px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiJIpWuT1qAF1Xby-pfLsMe3rTl6BEQadXETmNnchFUJ5AIyo3FPphtFTL1CLPmJSezeaJczverCrBGKkzRnvAdMSokV5gatHZj1n8FjPnwfdZeWblGiXr9mguBvUiFS9uSrVRpoSybYzY/s320/Red+Letter+Books+Exterior+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364485970102016818" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVef5bysTjI_5muXPPi3mF7fePoI6M4KvLXu-u2VBbFxzdBF2sqKfbFigLqZWxJxMOjps0at0OmjjuSCmYJ9xlaW9-OTXk85mw7YEUUUvvvCeA_0FkJhNlU6TbL7g2WZUNVbQrYW22KU4L/s1600-h/Bookworm+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVef5bysTjI_5muXPPi3mF7fePoI6M4KvLXu-u2VBbFxzdBF2sqKfbFigLqZWxJxMOjps0at0OmjjuSCmYJ9xlaW9-OTXk85mw7YEUUUvvvCeA_0FkJhNlU6TbL7g2WZUNVbQrYW22KU4L/s320/Bookworm+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364486212630270834" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUeno2zgpspelPEN4vxLYW8fpj1HjXq2nmqT8iWEd-KJM3z2FYvVWZ9KocwIeUq5QpDUiTJb-qGuA6d4eurTYVx7-Uxrt_Xm8PfbSvcoza2q_R0OcHBfvOEiAJJoH-LWvDRK0DyQ5Z3eek/s1600-h/Bookworm+Cafe+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 260px; height: 196px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUeno2zgpspelPEN4vxLYW8fpj1HjXq2nmqT8iWEd-KJM3z2FYvVWZ9KocwIeUq5QpDUiTJb-qGuA6d4eurTYVx7-Uxrt_Xm8PfbSvcoza2q_R0OcHBfvOEiAJJoH-LWvDRK0DyQ5Z3eek/s320/Bookworm+Cafe+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364486214765048034" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Top Left</span>: Red Letter Books. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Top Right</span>: The Book Worm. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Bottom Left</span>: The Book Worm Cafe.</span></span><br /><br />Half a block further east is Red Letter Second Hand Books, a straight-up second hand bookstore with a wide range of titles at cheap prices. As if that's not enough for the average booklover, take a cruise out to 28th street and go north 1 mile through the endless morass of strip malls to The Bookworm, a 10,000 sq. ft. used book warehouse and cafe that offers a HUGE selection of used titles at great prices. This store is extremely well organized and offers an incredibly wide range of titles in an easy to navigate layout that's fun to visit.<br /><br />Put this all together with an exceptional menu of restaurants and eateries, a cornucopia of funky one-off retailers and an unparalleled natural setting, and you have one of the coolest destinations possible for any true booklover. My only regret is not being able to spend a couple of more days here to take in the amazing street performers and singular street scene which makes this unique town brazenly iconic. There is definitely no other place like it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3enrXsaCllDgeIw0-WeFM-i7p2N4IOTQkMxQgcp2vCgKbMv97dPzuKJE394G0IhEFa_wya2doIWnThtvCMY8udhPisUE7KnrgmKZfSUHKPjX_Jk2-wUxqLAifWaCslk8BzKuDENy_QRVo/s1600-h/Pearl+Mall+Balloon+Man+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 195px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3enrXsaCllDgeIw0-WeFM-i7p2N4IOTQkMxQgcp2vCgKbMv97dPzuKJE394G0IhEFa_wya2doIWnThtvCMY8udhPisUE7KnrgmKZfSUHKPjX_Jk2-wUxqLAifWaCslk8BzKuDENy_QRVo/s320/Pearl+Mall+Balloon+Man+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364488127329570722" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBFcuoXMifvg0PyGChPKlLB5aZ7k82FjGQ0UyBdSFGX3M5b8K0Wchd5yMvGgWtsnqfEs9wtsmA9PmgX2IcJg2sF2vJfVvGZWsu1LRyQzk7PZME6Yny71tYLqHBShG3uPvz5ZPWI5TFXdX/s1600-h/Pearl+Mall+Performer+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 194px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbBFcuoXMifvg0PyGChPKlLB5aZ7k82FjGQ0UyBdSFGX3M5b8K0Wchd5yMvGgWtsnqfEs9wtsmA9PmgX2IcJg2sF2vJfVvGZWsu1LRyQzk7PZME6Yny71tYLqHBShG3uPvz5ZPWI5TFXdX/s320/Pearl+Mall+Performer+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5364488123689452882" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Pearl St. Mall entertainers</span>. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Balloon Man (great at making extreme balloon fashions). <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Didgeridoo Man (is that your Didgeridoo, or are you just happy to see me?).</span><br /><br />Stay tuned for my next post when we once again throw off the shackles of civilization take in the spectacular beauty of the Colorado Rockies. Upcoming adventures include a a ride on the historic Georgetown Loop train and a run through Rocky Mountain National Park over the famed Trail Ridge Road: "The Highest Highway in the World".<br /><br />-PeaceBook Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-61390156289697219922009-07-28T05:40:00.000-07:002009-07-28T10:38:29.726-07:00The Two Mile High Club: Wanderings Above the Timber Line; Sad Days for an Old Friend<span style="text-decoration: underline;"></span><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Two Mile High Club: Wanderings Above the Timber Line</span><br /><br />For the uninitiated, Denver lies flush against the eastern slope of the Rocky Mountains, perched on the high arid plains that rise nearly a thousand miles from the major river basins of the mid-west. It's hard for first timers to comprehend that standing in the center of downtown, surrounded by endless plains on three sides and looking west over the suburbs toward the mountains that you are already higher than most of the highest mountain peaks along the Eastern seaboard. One of the biggest surprises for first-timers is that Denver is not in the mountains at all, a common misconception.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP40HRqh5-ls12Tj8O_orw5mXxWgPuvi8_rxxKklmDlo-EULKEe5bg8rlIo8Inh840U2uHyiyYLv4t44Dmgv8nXfpoyNW-HL7CJvO599vjVbJwoGSP4c9_KxUqG4Dos43Uj7GfSqXx6tTh/s1600-h/Looking+back+to+Loveland+Pass+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP40HRqh5-ls12Tj8O_orw5mXxWgPuvi8_rxxKklmDlo-EULKEe5bg8rlIo8Inh840U2uHyiyYLv4t44Dmgv8nXfpoyNW-HL7CJvO599vjVbJwoGSP4c9_KxUqG4Dos43Uj7GfSqXx6tTh/s320/Looking+back+to+Loveland+Pass+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363558801850112002" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG6-Eufixm8EsQJjgPwDFSY1uByODK3YAMOAF_sWP6jV2DzAb0vJ0Jq-_4qKKOlk7ZNHXPyEu0KXYF9MtluiDdZrZQzx00NlHm_l5lgcben5wP8layZw07uMmati1NYI4JMcm3vGpMGIvh/s1600-h/BT+View+from+the+top+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 289px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG6-Eufixm8EsQJjgPwDFSY1uByODK3YAMOAF_sWP6jV2DzAb0vJ0Jq-_4qKKOlk7ZNHXPyEu0KXYF9MtluiDdZrZQzx00NlHm_l5lgcben5wP8layZw07uMmati1NYI4JMcm3vGpMGIvh/s320/BT+View+from+the+top+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363558790723833474" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Looking back towards Loveland Pass from Grizzly. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: View from the Top</span></span><br /><br />Having spent my high school years in the dusty western suburbs of this fair city, your humble Booktraveler was already familiar with the geographic particulars of the area. For weeks I had been dreaming of the drive west, up and out of the city on I-70, heading up to the the thin air of the Continental Divide. My Denver host, a long-time friend, had kindly cleared his schedule to join me for a day of high country adventure.<br /><br />We rose at 5 am to get a jump on the weather. The mid-summer months often see violent storms rise up over the mountains in the afternoon, an unnerving, often terrifying and sometimes deadly experience for those caught up above the treeline with nowhere to take shelter. As a rule, it's always best to be off the mountains by 12pm, or at least close to shelter. The weather forecast was good however, so it looked like we were in for a great day.<br /><br />Being already a mile high, the 14,000 foot plus peaks looming to the west of Denver are in truth 9,000 feet above the city. The earth rises up as you head west and as you climb closer to higher peaks, the valley floors rise to heights of 10,000+ feet, bringing you breathtakingly close to the now formidable looking peaks.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipT2KmctISgjuSS8uPDgGeznBGmPIBpLksGe4m43vvvnafhnhcrCdZIG-PbNfwSUGzWsNz2ih6JOik4yJMyUmwvZ7xOfDh_FTOCl-WmGLy4EB8jgp7rT5lcMHUUaCzoDAro-d7g8rxD4Jd/s1600-h/Fellow+Hiker+and+Dog.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 290px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipT2KmctISgjuSS8uPDgGeznBGmPIBpLksGe4m43vvvnafhnhcrCdZIG-PbNfwSUGzWsNz2ih6JOik4yJMyUmwvZ7xOfDh_FTOCl-WmGLy4EB8jgp7rT5lcMHUUaCzoDAro-d7g8rxD4Jd/s320/Fellow+Hiker+and+Dog.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363558793194103714" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikCPlDFWPltOXnBb6xn7TPqJNcQWvIvBOg8Jldtgmu_4aEJqLPr_EDJQFD7RjPa8HeR1eFCqSnygNtZlN3T8mewxhjUdkHA7JfXqWRQggl1_lgbsWSg4kNg_5gfRS80h2W_ZazJcqRIVC2/s1600-h/Grizzly+from+Torres+Base+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 288px; height: 216px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikCPlDFWPltOXnBb6xn7TPqJNcQWvIvBOg8Jldtgmu_4aEJqLPr_EDJQFD7RjPa8HeR1eFCqSnygNtZlN3T8mewxhjUdkHA7JfXqWRQggl1_lgbsWSg4kNg_5gfRS80h2W_ZazJcqRIVC2/s320/Grizzly+from+Torres+Base+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363558799087397234" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Grizzly Peak (foreground) with Torres and Grays Peaks further back, fellow hiker and Onyx in the lead. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Grizzly from the base of Torres</span><br /><br />Our plan for the day was to take I-70 west to it's highest elevation at the base of the Loveland Basin ski area, roughly 60 miles west of Denver, then to head up to the summit of Loveland Pass at 12,000 feet to begin our journey. Loveland Pass was the only way over the mountains in this direction until I-70 was taken under the continental divide through the Eisenhower Tunnel, which was opened for traffic in 1973. 18 wheelers carrying dangerous cargoes must still climb up and over this harrowing switchback road, a particularly dangerous prospect during the winter months when the snowfalls are measured in feet, not inches.<br /><br />After a quick stop for a breakfast sandwich and coffee, we reached the pass summit around 7:00 am, donned our camelback packs, and along with our companion Onyx, my friend's pound rescue, headed up the trail toward the summit of the Divide.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpq8Ayq0DcKiljOLo1-msm-oM6bHOgFrTDx1isMKRozEQwDOFKhCIzSGBvpgXBGBxX1dpQKnr1tB34yomlknwuGlO0c4ZOPvYUl2GUgLkB0B9tBDw76lylg_bo-KYVpobVQYPGs269Rl_p/s1600-h/Looking+Towards+Grizzly+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 179px; height: 239px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpq8Ayq0DcKiljOLo1-msm-oM6bHOgFrTDx1isMKRozEQwDOFKhCIzSGBvpgXBGBxX1dpQKnr1tB34yomlknwuGlO0c4ZOPvYUl2GUgLkB0B9tBDw76lylg_bo-KYVpobVQYPGs269Rl_p/s320/Looking+Towards+Grizzly+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363560016366938722" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbw84duFx8X4AxywVYo3Bm-qAiC3f5XX-upj_yqgKtgcX7d-Aq3ebgidHW_l5Zj-nbUgG6zls37BGA37E46ZAfRm4DG6EPHEgIONmu1mjzXq3IuPceA4EcuUeRc0fSgy1f3pm7YBe_pHRE/s1600-h/View+From+Loveland+Pass+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbw84duFx8X4AxywVYo3Bm-qAiC3f5XX-upj_yqgKtgcX7d-Aq3ebgidHW_l5Zj-nbUgG6zls37BGA37E46ZAfRm4DG6EPHEgIONmu1mjzXq3IuPceA4EcuUeRc0fSgy1f3pm7YBe_pHRE/s320/View+From+Loveland+Pass+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363560015901011842" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Looking up Grizzly (second peak). <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Continental Divide from Loveland Pass.</span><br /><br />Now, as many of my friends and family would gladly tell you (perhaps with just a hint of derision) , I pride myself on being somewhat impervious to the physical trials of mere mortals. I can go on less food and less water than most, am lucky to have been born with a somewhat iron constitution, and keep myself physically fit. So imagine my dismay when I found myself struggling for breath a mere 200 yards and 500 feet above the car. It was going to be a long day.<br /><br />A mere 36 hours off the plane from sea level, my body had yet to adjust to being a mile high, let alone over 2-miles high so I was inclined to be careful and not overexert. The hike was over 8 miles long and starting at the top of the pass, high up above the treeline, we were already at the lowest altitude of the entire climb. We were heading over several smaller saddle peaks up and over Grizzly Peak, a mere 13,427 feet, to the base of Torres Peak, a "Fourteener" as they are known in Colorado, one of fifty-two 14,000 foot plus peaks in the state.<br /><br />A mile and and a half into the hike we reached the Saddle that runs along the Continental Divide. This is the dividing line of the continental watershed. Water falling west of the Divide heads to the Gulf of California and Pacific, while water falling east of the divide flows to the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic. We were up over 12.000 feet and the panoramic views were as impressive as the heaving of my chest and relentless pounding of my heart.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLXK1911hIHLwwYgTxSmbQMyhPPgm7AK32xrXslu3BOshCDqStrY1FBtaZ_Xh-7pvNouHT256FbdnFtXzQadPWwiY7KMJ0gHvaBkqiV5V8WLUkWhLz3-_WsIWVMAuCKUrRl4WiGC15ItB/s1600-h/Grizzly+Snowfield+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 282px; height: 212px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivLXK1911hIHLwwYgTxSmbQMyhPPgm7AK32xrXslu3BOshCDqStrY1FBtaZ_Xh-7pvNouHT256FbdnFtXzQadPWwiY7KMJ0gHvaBkqiV5V8WLUkWhLz3-_WsIWVMAuCKUrRl4WiGC15ItB/s320/Grizzly+Snowfield+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363558803070240290" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDaQVWGsd-5neDS2gp8V5PGWiZ_P-8KKQQZg8HZmFixaAhyrWWN4iXoNICclClFXsjjVcysX4V3LysKdn0CygHD-GcxeT1z-tbOgzQx-nHDXzletvc3ppySpBcKss6lyUH7f7Tw7HuoY_X/s1600-h/Marmots+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 266px; height: 210px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDaQVWGsd-5neDS2gp8V5PGWiZ_P-8KKQQZg8HZmFixaAhyrWWN4iXoNICclClFXsjjVcysX4V3LysKdn0CygHD-GcxeT1z-tbOgzQx-nHDXzletvc3ppySpBcKss6lyUH7f7Tw7HuoY_X/s320/Marmots+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363560009571761010" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Grizzly Snowfield. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Marmots (don't anger the neigbors)</span><br /><br />If the next mile or so of relatively mild climbs up and over the smaller saddle peaks had my pulmonary system working like an overtaxed steam engine, the 1,000 foot climb straight up the shoulder to Grizzly Peak had me sweating like a miner and gasping for air like a stranded goldfish. Several time along the ascent I had to stop, fully chagrined, and let the dizzying heaving and pounding of my heart and lungs subdue while my hiking partner, a fully acclimatized back-country mountain biker whom I knew to be in no better shape than me, jumped spryly higher without a pause.<br /><br />Like all climbs, each time you thought you had reached the top, another promontory appeared just above. It was a great feeling to finally reach the top, panting and heaving, and view for the first time the full panorama of Grays and Torres Peaks from the summit of Grizzly. After few minutes on the top we began down the back of the mountain towards the grassy tundra shoulder leading to the base of Torres.<br /><br />My "experienced" hiking companion, not readily seeing the trail and having never taken the hike, took us off the back of the mountain, where we ended up descending a 600 foot face of loose "scree" rock, which had my life flashing before my eyes more than once. When we finally reached the tundra shoulder, tired and harried from the decent, it was nice to walk across the smooth grass before heading up the shoulder ridge of Torres.<br /><br />While Torres beckoned a mere two miles away and 2,000 feet above us, we knew it was time to turn back to avoid any mishaps with the now slightly darkening skies. This time we took the proper way back up Grizzly, perched along the rocky ridge that fell away abruptly to our right down a cliff 800 feet to the valley below, and across a great snowfield.<br /><br />Retracing our steps, it was quite a surprise to see just how far we had come. Enjoying the unparalleled beauty of the surroundings, the final decent back down to the truck was an inspiration, and luckily, not a "death march". It was my first real hike in the high country in decades, and experience I won't soon forget. Thank go out to my host and hiking partner for a fantastic day along the Divide.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBvG4NQzstWIcNFvoNYT07pV18dIq7psIhF3bFD3s8LZPgCh3Jv3SVerzE-jAiPdHa3IowcCqOmi4LDT16C78jAhOwoTSnD6wdQodd6_nkQ2DYXwEmM8PTroXAu9Y4yQ5kaWpKGc3_Jne/s1600-h/St+Mary%27s+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 271px; height: 203px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKBvG4NQzstWIcNFvoNYT07pV18dIq7psIhF3bFD3s8LZPgCh3Jv3SVerzE-jAiPdHa3IowcCqOmi4LDT16C78jAhOwoTSnD6wdQodd6_nkQ2DYXwEmM8PTroXAu9Y4yQ5kaWpKGc3_Jne/s320/St+Mary%27s+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363562008344125186" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5vR21hhlOMkp6LiUHNJ4txLn9-lHgixMH1rChEk90SSmlJG51qj87ASlWqSR2-nB-YJLgI3xF5KL2BadqdNCH7XPcu6DmEyg6ndwyjRWVaCC355dqHFwJDpFtYaxJf50PgH1QE4XPOvX/s1600-h/St+Marys+to+Evans+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 277px; height: 208px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh5vR21hhlOMkp6LiUHNJ4txLn9-lHgixMH1rChEk90SSmlJG51qj87ASlWqSR2-nB-YJLgI3xF5KL2BadqdNCH7XPcu6DmEyg6ndwyjRWVaCC355dqHFwJDpFtYaxJf50PgH1QE4XPOvX/s320/St+Marys+to+Evans+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363562099830600770" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: St Mary's Glacier from the lake. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: View of Mt. Evans from the Glacier.</span></span><br /><br />After a quick lunch, I took a ride up Fall River Road above the hamlet of Idaho Springs to St. Mary's Glacier, one of the most beautiful and easily accessible spots in the Rockies. The Glacier had receded another hundred yards or so in the years since I had last seen it, but remains one of my favorite spots on earth. It can be quite crowded on summer weekends with cliff jumpers plunging into the ice cold lake, skiers and snowboarders on the glacier, and a myriad of partying campers, but it can't detract from the natural beauty of the location or the incredible views of Mount Evans (another 14'er) 10 miles off to the South.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEXPGEfvLQPKk8fLu2svX5YT3dVwXJrDrr_ccf9srnLQMsnmDOekT1bEWJ_QesjXXi39P_59J7H73hftxV5JPGcR3oLIGfsxpFStn9lMM0ZR_raU2UxMaTy9Xh4lXRtjAPtk_t4gbr2e3G/s1600-h/Mt+Evans+from+Summit+Lake+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 267px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEXPGEfvLQPKk8fLu2svX5YT3dVwXJrDrr_ccf9srnLQMsnmDOekT1bEWJ_QesjXXi39P_59J7H73hftxV5JPGcR3oLIGfsxpFStn9lMM0ZR_raU2UxMaTy9Xh4lXRtjAPtk_t4gbr2e3G/s320/Mt+Evans+from+Summit+Lake+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363562004423148802" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdqyEEhCx_p-_afIQVIKr8iF7AwV_laCURcAXOKy1pOGiUcszz4IRTCpALA2OteP9tC2irq6VQZLN0i7_-jgZFHVehixDPadWJXiOIJKJPIhOoNoleyHWdBPOhg5Onry1WRycRJ-qmYUm/s1600-h/Mount+Evans+View+from+the+Top+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 301px; height: 108px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPdqyEEhCx_p-_afIQVIKr8iF7AwV_laCURcAXOKy1pOGiUcszz4IRTCpALA2OteP9tC2irq6VQZLN0i7_-jgZFHVehixDPadWJXiOIJKJPIhOoNoleyHWdBPOhg5Onry1WRycRJ-qmYUm/s320/Mount+Evans+View+from+the+Top+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363561998093270114" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><br /><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Left</span>: Mount Evans from Summit Lake. <span style="font-weight: bold;">Right</span>: Mt. Evans, view from 14,260 feet.</span></span><br /><br />Speaking of Mount Evans, this enormous peak, easily viewed from the Denver Metropolitan area, features the highest road in the United States, a spectacular drive to the summit at 14,260 feet known as the Mount Evans Scenic Byway (a couple of hundred feet higher than the famed road up Pikes Peak in Colorado Springs). This high mountain road is a breathtaking experience, and one of only two ways to reach 14,000 feet by car, the other being the afore mentioned Pikes Peak, 80 miles to the south and clearly visible from the summit. There's a resident herd of mountain goats and even some big horn sheep that populate the summit in summer, a popular attraction for the many visitors who ascend by car, bicycle, and on foot to take in the astounding views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. I took the precipitous drive up from Idaho Springs, descending through the even more beautiful Squaw Pass, a trip I highly recommend for anyone visiting the area.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja6H5eR66jX3Fz2-TE2R2D18Z3nlopnWT6gSIehyVNld8AbHElDvySl21sirdgIua2XV6Dpm4qZpnTSjSP2IC8n7xF71-mAe0R-j7FqiCkca6oCUCT7Uvp7Fsuo8TX0co_86eaEMdN-kjX/s1600-h/Mount+Evans+Goats+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 257px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja6H5eR66jX3Fz2-TE2R2D18Z3nlopnWT6gSIehyVNld8AbHElDvySl21sirdgIua2XV6Dpm4qZpnTSjSP2IC8n7xF71-mAe0R-j7FqiCkca6oCUCT7Uvp7Fsuo8TX0co_86eaEMdN-kjX/s320/Mount+Evans+Goats+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363561993317993970" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkt0NjR48p1JC2xkP5QVU5IWI8DRGOy_c4sSvrqcWjrMMZNPzhjsUgi5KgM1L3po_tz3rLzsQ6sAmSacFpNr60Q0_u8ZlFHI1-1BGLzeKjv9a2rNvpHG5tgDCZXRGJtzCi95euhzifBX0/s1600-h/Goat's+eye+view+BT.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 258px; height: 193px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQkt0NjR48p1JC2xkP5QVU5IWI8DRGOy_c4sSvrqcWjrMMZNPzhjsUgi5KgM1L3po_tz3rLzsQ6sAmSacFpNr60Q0_u8ZlFHI1-1BGLzeKjv9a2rNvpHG5tgDCZXRGJtzCi95euhzifBX0/s320/Goat's+eye+view+BT.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363561992671503090" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Left</span><span style="font-style: italic;">: Local inhabitants, Mt. Evans. </span><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;">Right</span><span style="font-style: italic;">: Goat's Eye View, Mt. Evans.</span></span><br /><br />There's lots more to come. Join me on my next post when we sample the ample independent and used bookstores of Boulder, Colorado, home of the University of Colorado, then make our way up through the byways and bookstores of Colorado to Jackson, Wyoming.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sad Days for an Old Friend</span><br /><br />One final note to my good friend Chris, a high school buddy from my days in Arvada. My deepest condolences for the untimely loss of your son Scott. Approaching the painful anniversary of the accident that took him away too soon at 19, your love and your pain is an eternal, living testament to the boy, and the man. Thank you and your beautiful wife for your hospitality, and for sharing your most intimate pain with us. All our best.<br /><br />-PeaceBook Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-22293121753983303242009-07-26T07:24:00.000-07:002009-07-26T09:59:59.638-07:00Indie Icon, Undaunted Used, The 2-Mile High Club<span style="font-weight: bold;">Indie Icon</span><br /><br /><span style="font-style: italic;">From the Tattered Cover website</span>:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.tatteredcover.com/newsletter/168151">http://www.tatteredcover.com/newsletter/</a><a href="http://www.tatteredcover.com/newsletter/168151">1681</a><a href="http://www.tatteredcover.com/newsletter/168151">51</a><br /><span style="font-size:small;"><p style="font-style: italic;">Imagine if the government knew what books you were reading. Would you buy a copy of <em>Al-Qaida:The Battle Against Western Tyranny</em>, <em>The Anar</em><em>chis</em><em>t's Cookbook</em> or <em>Mein Kampf</em>? Fortunately, for those of us living in Colorado, this Orwellian scenario is only a hypothetical, thanks to this week's Colorado Supreme Court decision in Tattered Cover v. City of Thornton.</p><p style="font-style: italic;">Continuing this state's long tradition of protecting individual rights, the court ruled that the federal and state constitutions prevent law enforcement from finding out what books an individual purchased at Denver's Tattered Cover Bookstore, unless law enforcement can show the information is critical to a prosecution.</p><p style="font-style: italic;">In an opinion that will serve as a guide to judges across the country, the court made clear that even in the post-Sept. 11 world, the right of individuals to purchase and read anonymously whatever books they wish, without the threat of governmental intrusion, lies at the very foundation of our democracy.</p><p>The Tattered Cover Bookstore is as much an indie icon to Denver Metro as Powell's Books is to Portland, Oregon (coming up later in the visit). Winning the highly publicized Colorado Supreme Court case back in 2002 stands as a testament to their dedication, standing firm to protect readers' first amendment rights.</p><p>In our last post, we visited their newest location in the super-cool refurbished Lowenstein Theater, opened in 2006 on the up-and-coming east side of Denver on Colfax Avenue. In this post we sidle on down to their downtown location, the 20,000 square foot warehouse in the "LoDo" (Lower Downtown) district.</p><p><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><p><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1VIJtkEJkZA15Z6tPHJiaXrVgzD_TFpMo7xl7TWaj9b_bb9cQ-_MlVkN9WpK9Xb6zBoXGmGPoZxbmx5OvCGbIPw6RcRJ6MXXFpAbX36hD3IyFtab3Ny3hdOIoxz2xLk9ZB01iWK5GnSO0/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+Lodo1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 233px; height: 172px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1VIJtkEJkZA15Z6tPHJiaXrVgzD_TFpMo7xl7TWaj9b_bb9cQ-_MlVkN9WpK9Xb6zBoXGmGPoZxbmx5OvCGbIPw6RcRJ6MXXFpAbX36hD3IyFtab3Ny3hdOIoxz2xLk9ZB01iWK5GnSO0/s320/Tattered+Cover+Lodo1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362790034131679378" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></p></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>The LoDo district is Denver's crown jewel hang out spot. It encompasses the old historic district wedged between Coors Field and Union Station. The main focus of the district is the 16th Street mall, an outdoor walking mall on a closed-to-traffic street that runs from the State Capitol building down to the Platte "River" (more like a wash in the summertime). The street is served from end-to-end by a hybrid bus service that's free of charge. A block or two from the Union Station/Platte River end of the mall sits the converted 20,000 square foot warehouse and 300 seat special events space encompassing The Tattered Cover LoDo.</p><p>The LoDo location is comprised of two floors, with a Cafe on the first floor and, like the Colfax Ave. location, a whole bunch of cool reading nooks and rooms. I don't think it would be possible for your humble Booktraveler to feel more at home in a store. As soon as you walk in, the layout with it's inviting chairs, wood shelves and huge selection make you check your watch to decide which late day plans are getting thrown to the wind. The upstairs in particular (above) makes you want to sit back for an hour or two or three to peruse the vast selection.</p><p>Downstairs the coffee shop beckons with a wide range of offerings that make it easy to camp out until you're thrown out. The best part is, once you're able to tear yourself away, the LoDo district offers Denver's best selection of restaurants, microbreweries and entertainment venues, and you can even catch a game at Coors Field, the retro downtown baseball stadium that's home to the Colorado Rockies. Had the World Champion Philadelphia Phillies been in town, The Booktraveler may have been tempted.</p><p><span style="font-size:small;"><p><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxiotzKRjBHv4hfQMG4s_Uw9JRQCz4tztsAuhFgiBKHzQ1rybEoyNa_UHhlcwEAP2NaVr5c-oDuGKsJreb9B6utcOKmHmS68Bs3lx9bpLWyg5ErOBzILOua25m8M-pvl7njOh6MeXWN-V/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+Lodo2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 276px; height: 207px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjxiotzKRjBHv4hfQMG4s_Uw9JRQCz4tztsAuhFgiBKHzQ1rybEoyNa_UHhlcwEAP2NaVr5c-oDuGKsJreb9B6utcOKmHmS68Bs3lx9bpLWyg5ErOBzILOua25m8M-pvl7njOh6MeXWN-V/s320/Tattered+Cover+Lodo2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362793216190761266" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3hefhUCMXZhsgCVIIpSpTB63D1T4YBccoyF0sjfdq_AEwvmYAHyIpPmyDqrHhUBloy3lpNBqhA2Degmx9uSLNE9LoqkfByq5wH90zFZJ7hm9GJlMjQrmIyYR7KASHm-JkslKVsF7speX/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+Reading+Room+2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 276px; height: 207px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga3hefhUCMXZhsgCVIIpSpTB63D1T4YBccoyF0sjfdq_AEwvmYAHyIpPmyDqrHhUBloy3lpNBqhA2Degmx9uSLNE9LoqkfByq5wH90zFZJ7hm9GJlMjQrmIyYR7KASHm-JkslKVsF7speX/s320/Tattered+Cover+Reading+Room+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362793620660612162" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6apMdiK7hR93BcRiDLJBwNnuyCQYGxmDyTxop0uCaOM4Nig-ZK5czJMw_tZFXGM4AbF7r6GbbafoFnSo35N5NLv2BcOyQ5LrnqpQAHNVYW2vr42TONtqwJA-Sw3DJL7-Qp7_xhHApBL0J/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+Coffee+Shop.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 275px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6apMdiK7hR93BcRiDLJBwNnuyCQYGxmDyTxop0uCaOM4Nig-ZK5czJMw_tZFXGM4AbF7r6GbbafoFnSo35N5NLv2BcOyQ5LrnqpQAHNVYW2vr42TONtqwJA-Sw3DJL7-Qp7_xhHApBL0J/s320/Tattered+Cover+Coffee+Shop.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362794412397464258" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZzB2jcFgIEnzCinn2cK8qjbb5VtfYfRn3CbkxkMcYgAq2P9HLoN0ueQPZsiMmeCbnAYe5D8Ge-gO0mMpfDvr4ooJx7zgcNspOoXtPG4urpwZIlqrwhpIuZK5qcPQvxqaKfZ0K60VPq_iz/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+Reading+Room.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 274px; height: 206px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZzB2jcFgIEnzCinn2cK8qjbb5VtfYfRn3CbkxkMcYgAq2P9HLoN0ueQPZsiMmeCbnAYe5D8Ge-gO0mMpfDvr4ooJx7zgcNspOoXtPG4urpwZIlqrwhpIuZK5qcPQvxqaKfZ0K60VPq_iz/s320/Tattered+Cover+Reading+Room.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362793619080418162" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p></span></p><p><span style="font-style: italic;font-size:85%;" ><span style="font-weight: bold;">The Tattered Cover LoDo</span>. Above, clockwise from top left: magazine reading room, second floor victorian nook, second floor reading corner and first floor cafe.</span></p><p>The Tattered Cover has an upscale 21,000 square foot third location in the exclusive Highland Ranch area in southern Denver which The Booktraveler was unable to visit. But trust me, if you find yourself if Denver, the two downtown locations will prove more than sufficient to satiate the most ravenous reading appetite of the most prolific booklover.</p><p style="font-weight: bold;">Undaunted Used</p><p>But if you are a <span style="font-style: italic;">true </span>bookstore officionado, and used books are your passion, then situated between the two Tattered Covers directly across from the Colorado State Capitol building is Denver's oldest and best used bookstore: Capitol Hill Books.</p><p><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NiVB2BxNlsGKIHIq0IEH84sHK40tS2uVI0GhNNLsAklvb1S8tPAve7uM7K0KTjZMfhJH5iVx6LvWcVvaY7u869z2v3X82KUZkadvOFf_pf-K4kD077si-Mc2EV-65-F3npzzLif66BYw/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Exterior.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 218px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NiVB2BxNlsGKIHIq0IEH84sHK40tS2uVI0GhNNLsAklvb1S8tPAve7uM7K0KTjZMfhJH5iVx6LvWcVvaY7u869z2v3X82KUZkadvOFf_pf-K4kD077si-Mc2EV-65-F3npzzLif66BYw/s320/Capitol+Hill+Books+Exterior.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362805756583101954" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-NiVB2BxNlsGKIHIq0IEH84sHK40tS2uVI0GhNNLsAklvb1S8tPAve7uM7K0KTjZMfhJH5iVx6LvWcVvaY7u869z2v3X82KUZkadvOFf_pf-K4kD077si-Mc2EV-65-F3npzzLif66BYw/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Exterior.jpg"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></a><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-G_WZ_DHSzpHaM2YcKoFgrMeOXPgO726SaHhysdnAVraKdxfxdCXooIaIAFImT6KB2kIrJeb76vvFiVKGKC8Xv3hdyh-DG3Ck6TXY-ppl_0-uqrTC-6dyDg0fOEzlzJu8aHgGS7FpwLt/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Interior+1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-G_WZ_DHSzpHaM2YcKoFgrMeOXPgO726SaHhysdnAVraKdxfxdCXooIaIAFImT6KB2kIrJeb76vvFiVKGKC8Xv3hdyh-DG3Ck6TXY-ppl_0-uqrTC-6dyDg0fOEzlzJu8aHgGS7FpwLt/s320/Capitol+Hill+Books+Interior+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362806706073441474" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-G_WZ_DHSzpHaM2YcKoFgrMeOXPgO726SaHhysdnAVraKdxfxdCXooIaIAFImT6KB2kIrJeb76vvFiVKGKC8Xv3hdyh-DG3Ck6TXY-ppl_0-uqrTC-6dyDg0fOEzlzJu8aHgGS7FpwLt/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Interior+1.jpg"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></a><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RSbLuaTcPnZR4X1OalMNxfaqc2vrIvGQWGEmvJBpxA0m5muulZYwsQaWLqdcYMTXl1A_nZZimEZYwdNln3q_9dQqCCeW02D_WCoPEARoeg_78C5ZS8-Rg2PiIEC3Rflf69b9xDzX-2Ed/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Interior+2.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 294px; height: 220px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3RSbLuaTcPnZR4X1OalMNxfaqc2vrIvGQWGEmvJBpxA0m5muulZYwsQaWLqdcYMTXl1A_nZZimEZYwdNln3q_9dQqCCeW02D_WCoPEARoeg_78C5ZS8-Rg2PiIEC3Rflf69b9xDzX-2Ed/s320/Capitol+Hill+Books+Interior+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362806710864351778" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1-G_WZ_DHSzpHaM2YcKoFgrMeOXPgO726SaHhysdnAVraKdxfxdCXooIaIAFImT6KB2kIrJeb76vvFiVKGKC8Xv3hdyh-DG3Ck6TXY-ppl_0-uqrTC-6dyDg0fOEzlzJu8aHgGS7FpwLt/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Interior+1.jpg"><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></a><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><span><span style="font-size:small;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSFQ6TwZ6UcKwxLYTJrjGix2Sqfc9F7F2OkhnxYHJQ9m9BVTBSkGV_HFJsBQWCeSH7PgDDHRIdmiH8e4_rynurmtlVWK9v4393vg4izwsZqvyGx2sucOowKUSntFWGC6ffWNPBVINToaP/s1600-h/Capitol+Hill+Books+Bat.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 292px; height: 219px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBSFQ6TwZ6UcKwxLYTJrjGix2Sqfc9F7F2OkhnxYHJQ9m9BVTBSkGV_HFJsBQWCeSH7PgDDHRIdmiH8e4_rynurmtlVWK9v4393vg4izwsZqvyGx2sucOowKUSntFWGC6ffWNPBVINToaP/s320/Capitol+Hill+Books+Bat.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362806714986943826" border="0" /></a></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Capitol Hill Books</span>. Clockwise from top left: Corner location on Colfax Ave. View from the Counter. The back room. The Bat.</span></span><br /></p><p>Secure and undaunted in the same location for over 30 years, Capitol Hill Books (<a href="http://capitolbooks.com/">capitolhillbooks.com</a>) offers a great selection of the regular, the rare, the exceptional and the superior, in a cool corner location that will make any used book officionado feel right at home.<br /></p><p>Holly Brooks, proprietor, has been running the store for over three years. She purchased the store from the previous owner after working there for eight years. A reflection of the egalitarian store tradition that the store should only be sold to people who work there, Holly being the third such dedicated owner.</p><p>Located on Colfax Ave, just a block from the Colorado State Capitol building, Capitol Hill Books wins the prize for Denver's best used bookstore hands down. They have a great selection of signed editions, and like our very own <a href="http://www.cathysbooks.com/">Cathy's Half Price Books</a>, offer a selection of new book titles as a convenience and by request of their customers.</p><p>So whether it's new or used you're looking for, a trip to Denver offers plenty of grist for the discerning <span style="font-style: italic;">booklover</span>, with used and indie options that are so cool, they make the big book store chains look like freeze dried leftovers.</p><p style="font-weight: bold;">The 2-Mile High Club</p><p>Of course, there's a reason Denver is famous the world over, and that happens to be Rocky Mountains rising off to the west. Join me, The Booktraveller on my next post, as I gasp (literally) at the beauty of the Rockies on an 8-mile hike across the Continental Divide, from the heights of the highest road in the US (The Mount Evans Scenic Byway) at 14,260 feet above sea level, and from the unparalleled beauty of St. Mary's Glacier. Until then...</p><p>-Cheers!<br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p></span>Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-15578077762624140682009-07-24T06:48:00.000-07:002009-07-24T08:40:31.291-07:00A Day Late and Dollars Short. Welcome to the Mile High Club.Mental note: when packing, it's always a good idea to remember to bring your computer's power supply. So much for daily posting. Be that as it may: we continue, a day late and $89.95 short thanks to a local friendly Best Buy in suburban Denver and a replacement power supply. Thank you Best Buy!<br /><br />Flights of Fantasy<br /><br />Having packed and checked our own bags, and being briefly detained by a testy security agent due to an ongoing first/middle name issue on my ID (I need to get that fixed), we arrived at the gate an hour before our original flight was to leave. The flight, however, was now scheduled with an estimated arrival time that left only 10 minutes to make the connection in Minneapolis. It didn't look good.<br /><br />The friendly, smiling, officious person at the desk confirmed this, providing option 1: stay overnight in Minneapolis (sorry, no hotel voucher due to non-weather related delay). Option 2: go back home, come back for another flight the next morning. This was unpleasant news indeed, as mentally, I was already gone.<br /><br />Luckily, when the plane was even further delayed and all hope basically lost, I went to the desk at another gate to avoid the angry mob. The friendly, smiling, officious Northwest Airlines person at that desk, looking at the exact same information that her friendly, smiling, officious co-workers had , spanked the keyboard a few times and pumped out boarding passes for a USAir non-stop flight leaving in just one hour. SWEET! We would arrive a scant 10 minutes later than our original scheduled arrival time. Now THAT'S friendly, smiling and officious!<br /><br />The Mile High Club<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQhMvq8Q6xDRClQNtdfhE5gdeOVB7PicfYBq0SFBJDRSes455EW_gz5-q9o7iStAv2bM8V8UM3aTUuy38ssTbCaxeZ-N4H9Tan7SszCIR-zIgmscpyJRPfSkY7kUWgmnTuPF7Nfi5aePM/s1600-h/Denver+Citiscape.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 299px; height: 152px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCQhMvq8Q6xDRClQNtdfhE5gdeOVB7PicfYBq0SFBJDRSes455EW_gz5-q9o7iStAv2bM8V8UM3aTUuy38ssTbCaxeZ-N4H9Tan7SszCIR-zIgmscpyJRPfSkY7kUWgmnTuPF7Nfi5aePM/s320/Denver+Citiscape.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362034793585705234" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsUtZqOSrZF1wBtx604DhgAHtnjkZSFKFOGoWrsy4sx49E5sBARVjzjk_0eGx-jCVJixvX75rdUE6OKX4co4Q1edOgaHMheeN7NyTJzOd43J9-mLp2I8cG5mJf92yZznJfRDD3vt3pTPW/s1600-h/Capital+Building.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 262px; height: 152px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbsUtZqOSrZF1wBtx604DhgAHtnjkZSFKFOGoWrsy4sx49E5sBARVjzjk_0eGx-jCVJixvX75rdUE6OKX4co4Q1edOgaHMheeN7NyTJzOd43J9-mLp2I8cG5mJf92yZznJfRDD3vt3pTPW/s320/Capital+Building.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362035053492621842" border="0" /></a><br /><br />For the uninitiated, Denver is not actually in the Mountains. It rests up against the eastern slope of the foothills a mile high in altitude on the semi-arid plains. Viewed from the East, the mountains rise up spectacularly to the west filling the horizon from south to north, with several 14,000 foot plus peaks visible on clear days.<br /><br />It's a beautiful and increasingly cosmopolitan city and the true gateway to the west. No visit to Denver is complete for the booklover without a trip to Denver's biggest and most famous indie bookstore The Tattered Cover. The Booktraveler visited two of their three location. The first, just east of Downtown in a funky area of refurbished and hopefully soon-to-be-refurbished mansions, hipster bars and a few hard luck holdovers from more recent times, is located in the newly the renovated Lowenstein Theater giving it a truly distinctive flavor. Opened just three years ago and replacing their famed Cherry Creek location of 20 years, it offers a huge selection with a variety of unique reading rooms and cubbyholes to make a day of it, not to mention a friendly, helpful staff that provides even further value.<br /><br />Tattered Cover, East Colfax<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEt8Gaj5xnKrGjl-aKkOG0nbTcILV2oJqIBiIm-pSVxNZYb1V8pUYrU4nWnUBhocxacO53gRHHUYAzThfHeu6sISLpqpfNC6iGFGMdYxid4CN9irTbtq9BlG1Ms0j09HXw9jrGWjmMf_7B/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+East+Colfax.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 137px; height: 128px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEt8Gaj5xnKrGjl-aKkOG0nbTcILV2oJqIBiIm-pSVxNZYb1V8pUYrU4nWnUBhocxacO53gRHHUYAzThfHeu6sISLpqpfNC6iGFGMdYxid4CN9irTbtq9BlG1Ms0j09HXw9jrGWjmMf_7B/s320/Tattered+Cover+East+Colfax.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362038959152775394" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7zkqd3g-RtEfRsWe34GCw1jGLxyittEsfi_iTI4TEjmmfP2ZDaQj4ZPtokHAP6_ht6FF0AxLs8qlDAQ6nQbmdA9RnC1-3JkP_Vp2c2dUCc2PxE618pdGBGZgm6CPyT-cPm9-fKnMobg1/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+EC+Interior+1.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 177px; height: 132px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7zkqd3g-RtEfRsWe34GCw1jGLxyittEsfi_iTI4TEjmmfP2ZDaQj4ZPtokHAP6_ht6FF0AxLs8qlDAQ6nQbmdA9RnC1-3JkP_Vp2c2dUCc2PxE618pdGBGZgm6CPyT-cPm9-fKnMobg1/s320/Tattered+Cover+EC+Interior+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362042061617484722" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvHtnxdpS6-aYqLuFs1sku5d6954kOPDUjV6dqZO5GIiquz_N-JuYUTQAHdMNLYqhZ4eSh4rEYxODE9s7_MgCVbbSGfMQgKVWFV4BcXbxehBszsI8jbwC3FTV6gLA_P1Wi9u_mmocxRFf6/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+EC+Interior+4.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 98px; height: 132px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvHtnxdpS6-aYqLuFs1sku5d6954kOPDUjV6dqZO5GIiquz_N-JuYUTQAHdMNLYqhZ4eSh4rEYxODE9s7_MgCVbbSGfMQgKVWFV4BcXbxehBszsI8jbwC3FTV6gLA_P1Wi9u_mmocxRFf6/s320/Tattered+Cover+EC+Interior+4.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362043498187331266" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIVnnsvqZIv_tSoStuOhw22-dt6a9U0wbcQgkcu7u5qjjt3BGtBRZmAKpWB8uv2C_0CCY5I9jFPrRgqe0XaibSu1hvUYBmxyjzM0SpqLL4M1y3MM22Lv9yc9JvKTEsZYO50zE7dEKeVGju/s1600-h/Tattered+Cover+EC+Interior+3.jpg"><img style="cursor: pointer; width: 170px; height: 132px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIVnnsvqZIv_tSoStuOhw22-dt6a9U0wbcQgkcu7u5qjjt3BGtBRZmAKpWB8uv2C_0CCY5I9jFPrRgqe0XaibSu1hvUYBmxyjzM0SpqLL4M1y3MM22Lv9yc9JvKTEsZYO50zE7dEKeVGju/s320/Tattered+Cover+EC+Interior+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362043490595723330" border="0" /></a><br /><br />After your visit there, make sure you stop by next door at the independent music store Twist and Shout. They have more vinyl than an '80's fashion show and their selection is downright AWESOME!<br /><br />Twist and Shout<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSmEyFEy3yjwvviWK0o9dFQseZRXQIWp8rbC7uIcRHxoEjg5rVUYUUjerVmIK6wfh77nk4SL6m6jE26FSwV4q1UoqxJc3puvafntAvS4P1pcR-MFPN4eBIDkHsEryOlka0eDMgnk-AlltC/s1600-h/Twist+and+Shout+Interior+3.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 133px; height: 178px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSmEyFEy3yjwvviWK0o9dFQseZRXQIWp8rbC7uIcRHxoEjg5rVUYUUjerVmIK6wfh77nk4SL6m6jE26FSwV4q1UoqxJc3puvafntAvS4P1pcR-MFPN4eBIDkHsEryOlka0eDMgnk-AlltC/s320/Twist+and+Shout+Interior+3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362045157631528626" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-hDwKrPafQk0zcF67nsZp9b4_IAbRB4UiMAGjVcCeuAMLQsg-flMun3Sd-2uY0BeyaJgYGZqoZhh2CRyOSiqRhKkel1aqm3TOnj7XTZB1sPhsqoCezp2WARef3c9Em_uPfDrCJuJrSOLS/s1600-h/Twist+and+Shout+Interior+2.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 231px; height: 174px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-hDwKrPafQk0zcF67nsZp9b4_IAbRB4UiMAGjVcCeuAMLQsg-flMun3Sd-2uY0BeyaJgYGZqoZhh2CRyOSiqRhKkel1aqm3TOnj7XTZB1sPhsqoCezp2WARef3c9Em_uPfDrCJuJrSOLS/s320/Twist+and+Shout+Interior+2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362045155222663090" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOqd8SNt8Vfw-xwe4cWwl_Mfjqa5T8spRJ4r1q7kSix6MSanDU7UfUQDcnm412oGHIH1Ts3TAbfjOkNP9iX0zrvb7iWaDb05SdNaA4Ja2LqWORtDhj9cL7iwA7WgLwlXrj5Xca5HG5vP5/s1600-h/Twist+and+Shout+Interior+1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 231px; height: 172px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrOqd8SNt8Vfw-xwe4cWwl_Mfjqa5T8spRJ4r1q7kSix6MSanDU7UfUQDcnm412oGHIH1Ts3TAbfjOkNP9iX0zrvb7iWaDb05SdNaA4Ja2LqWORtDhj9cL7iwA7WgLwlXrj5Xca5HG5vP5/s320/Twist+and+Shout+Interior+1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362045149321489282" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The Tattered Cover is famed for winning their case in Colorado Supreme Court back in 2000, barring The Man from accessing their clients' purchasing records. Keep the faith!<br /><br />Thanks go out to our Booktravelers hosts in Denver. We had a great time! Next post: Tattered Cover LoDo, Capital Books (the best and oldest used bookstore in Denver), and the 2-1/2 Mile Club, gasping at the beauty of the Rockies from over 13,000 feet. CU then! -CheersBook Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-17926023712315391562009-07-22T16:35:00.000-07:002009-07-22T17:28:27.573-07:00Flying isn't what it used to be...I don't want to date myself, but I remember the days of flying when meals were served on plates with <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">cutlery</span> in coach (I was very, very, very young).<br /><br />This is not to say I'm unimpressed with modern aviation. The sheer <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">logistical</span> magnitude of the modern airport is staggering. So many people, so many flights, so much weather...not to mention the fact that you can fly just about anywhere in the United States for about the same price as a meal for two at your favorite restaurant. And let's face it, it's MUCH safer than the drive to the airport.<br /><br />Be that as it may, it still staggers the imagination the lengths to which the airlines must now stoop to keep the huddled masses in the air. Case in point: I used to fly Northwest Airlines quite a bit. Way back in those "salad" days (two or three years ago) there was a friendly smiling, officious person behind the counter to help you check-in and/or make necessary changes to your itinerary.<br /><br />My first forebodings began when my <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Orbitz</span> email arrived: Flight Delay Notification (I knew I should have booked a non-stop, but those enticing prices). It was obvious the connection through Minneapolis was out of the question. Being a somewhat seasoned traveler however, the decision was made to run the gauntlet.<br /><br />Arriving at the airport, I was heartened to see a <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">sparse</span> crowd unloading at the curb. Perhaps all was not lost. I could have the friendly, smiling, officious person behind the counter help me change my itinerary to get me into Denver on time.<br /><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Approaching</span> the counter however, I realized something was amiss. No friendly, smiling, officious personnel, just a happy, if somewhat impersonal bank of touch screen monitors asking me to "swipe my card" to begin, backed up by three somewhat harried <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">baggage</span> checkers to help the computer illiterate through the process.<br /><br />To make a long story short, you now, as a passenger, do the work of the friendly, smiling, <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">officious</span> counter personnel, running your own <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">boarding</span> pass, putting on your own luggage tag, and taking your own luggage over to the conveyor to send it on its way (I have to admit I liked the conveyor part).<br /><br />Granted, the <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">baggage</span> checkers were a big help, and I usually don't check luggage in the first place. But the best part is, even after doing all the work, you're still hit up with a $15 charge for the first checked bag. It's probably just a matter of time before we'll have to fly the plane. I'm starting flying lessons as soon as I get home.<br /><br />Nonetheless, Denver was eventually <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">achieved</span>, on a different airline, on a different flight, arriving only ten minutes later than the original scheduled arrival. A story to be continued.<br /><br />Now, comfortably <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">ensconced</span> at the home of an <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">accommodating</span> friend and his wife, I look back at an exciting first day in Denver. Today's travels <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">focused</span> on the downtown area, where we visited one of the oldest used bookstores in the city, as well as two of the most famous independents, with stops at the state capital, the famed 16<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">th</span> street mall and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Larimer</span> Square.<br /><br />Tune in tomorrow for photos and a description of these visits in this most <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">cosmopolitan</span> of western cities, and find out how a missed connection leads to a non-stop flight on another airline. There is friendly, smiling officiousness after all.<br /><br />-Cheers!Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7121335021164490674.post-12379302852869484232009-07-20T15:54:00.000-07:002009-07-20T17:36:28.139-07:00The Book Traveler Heads Out West<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_mCVRuB6L0c4d7870XYJeXwJwrbKhdzshlIK1PcKYcS7jxlWTTWKb-JMAuR4iO6kpSSpvJGyZYM4njlD7BtYddhTzDJiO2DjQUHyoiAL9xMUE_U8rB3FMOsTfmiXSxsxC2VaDSYw8mPJY/s1600-h/logo-book_traveler2.gif"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 130px; height: 68px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_mCVRuB6L0c4d7870XYJeXwJwrbKhdzshlIK1PcKYcS7jxlWTTWKb-JMAuR4iO6kpSSpvJGyZYM4njlD7BtYddhTzDJiO2DjQUHyoiAL9xMUE_U8rB3FMOsTfmiXSxsxC2VaDSYw8mPJY/s320/logo-book_traveler2.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360679827718481762" border="0" /></a><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/USER/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:donotoptimizeforbrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} h1 {mso-style-next:Normal; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; page-break-after:avoid; mso-outline-level:1; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning:0pt; font-weight:normal; text-decoration:underline; text-underline:single;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-weight: bold; font-style: italic; color: rgb(153, 0, 0);">YEEEHAW! </span>Saddle up pardners! If you're a readin' this blog, you're one of the privileged few who've been invited to join <span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">The Book Traveler</span> as we head out west! Join us on a 3-week sojourn through the cities and sights along the Colorado front range, through Wyoming to the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone National Park, down through Salt Lake City and 'cross the Utah-Colorado border back through the Rockies.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><!--[if !supportEmptyParas]-->
<br /></p> <span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: "Times New Roman";">We’ll be visitin' the sights along with a bevy of used and independent bookstores along the way, posting stories and photos all the while. The sojourn wraps up when we skip off to Portland, Oregon by aeroplane, where we’ll sample the bookstores, coffee shops and microbreweries of the Willamette Valley. Blog along, won’t you! We’ll do all the work. There'll be enough adventure and misadventure to make you glad you opted for the staycation this year. The postings start on Wednesday, July 22nd, so bookmark this blog and get ready to roll!</span>
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<br />Book Travelerhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04412947581323462485noreply@blogger.com